Blueing coming off cylinder after 100 rounds

Steer clear of Hoppes on the newer blued guns. Hoppes is great, but the newer blued guns from S&W don't react well to it.

Ballistol of Break Free and some careful brushing should do the trick. I have also heard others use an eraser off a pencil, or the bigger rectangle eraser can get lead off.

Just don't get too aggressive.

Also, if it is leading, once you have it cleaned up, wax the outside of the Cylinder, and see if that makes the lead come off easier.

Good luck.
 
Never had this problem, but a lot of reading on forums and also removing the lead from 22LR guns that were never cleaned - I began using Kroil as part of my deleading process. Its great stuff and penetrates under the lead. so I would suggest trying Kroil over night, to see if it will help to get it loose. Just started shooting lead bullets in a new S&W a few months ago and after spending hours removing lead from the barrel, have gone to plated bullets. If you need a few lead 44 bullets and will pay the shipping, I will send them, because I will never put a lead bullet back in any of my guns, I will pay a little extra for the plated as I do not run a large number of rounds down range in my pistols.
 
I purchased a ruger 22cal target pistol that was so leaded up in the chamber area it probably didn't function anymore. I jumped on it since it looked like new. My point is lead is removable. I got a brand new pistol for $150. Lazy people didn't clean it.

It's a lead dust or powder. What's your cylinder gap set at?

I shoot the Carolina lead coated bullets.

What could we put on the front of the cylinder and throat area as a non stick? Pam? Oil? Moly?
 
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Well folks, first I want to say Thank you for all the advice and help. As you probably can tell, I'm a newbie in the wheel gun department. But I do have a Governor too but I have been shooting 45 thru it and haven't experienced the lead part.

All is good. I took a brass brush to it and gently brush the lead off as all said it would.

I'm a happy camper again. :)
 
That is lead buildup, not bluing loss.

Shooting fully plated bullets will not result in lead residue on the cylinder.

Are semi-jacketed soft points (SJSP) equally effective in reducing leading? I use Fiocchi 240 gr SJSP ammo in my stainless Ruger 44s and have not yet noticed any leading on the cylinders.
 
Well folks, first I want to say Thank you for all the advice and help. As you probably can tell, I'm a newbie in the wheel gun department. But I do have a Governor too but I have been shooting 45 thru it and haven't experienced the lead part.

All is good. I took a brass brush to it and gently brush the lead off as all said it would.

I'm a happy camper again. :)

Great!! Glad you got that sorted out. You can prevent most of the difficult clean up by rubbing on some Renaissance Wax when the revolver is clean. The lead build up will still show up after use, but will clean up a lot quicker and easier in my experience. The wax will also make your revolver shine and is a great finish preservative.
 
Great!! Glad you got that sorted out. You can prevent most of the difficult clean up by rubbing on some Renaissance Wax when the revolver is clean. The lead build up will still show up after use, but will clean up a lot quicker and easier in my experience. The wax will also make your revolver shine and is a great finish preservative.

+1 on the wax.
 
Makes sense, but normally only tiny trace amounts, right? But I'm thinking that the hotter the load the more vaporized lead there'll be - and for it to lead up like that after only 100 rounds, they'd have to be pretty hot - or the lead would have to be a really soft alloy...

The hotter the load the more leading you will get. Hot or not you will have molten lead spatter. I have been loading more plated bullets recently to stay away from it with a couple of the newer guns I have been shooting heavily.
 
This thread is very timely; I'm about to start loading 158gr lead bullets for my 438.
 
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