Burn marks on cylinder

[grice]

I think a few weeks ago I read something here about the blueing being burned off by hot gasses and the remedy. This morning I fired my new model 29-10 for the 2nd time and when I got it home started to clean the revolver . Hers what happened , I saw the same marks that appeared to be burn marks over the front of the cylinder that resembled the marks that my Colt SAA guns get after shooting . I took a dab of flitz metal polish and rubbed very gently on the marks and they came right off , the blueing on the gun is fine and not burned off at all. In the future I might just take the marks off every other time I shoot it as it’s pretty obvious it does no long lasting harm.
Just wanted to pass this on for those who have concerns about the issue.

 

[Tom S.]

Been covered numerous times here. The issue is the screw hole in the top of the frame that creates some kind of reflection/captivity problem that results in the mark. Some have replaced the screw with one that is flush (or ground a longer one down until it's flush). I seem to remember some tried filling the hole with some material with limited if any success.

While Flitz is great stuff, it will eventually remove the bluing if used too many times.

 

[Rpg]

Flitz will remove the bluing. It began doing so the first time you used it.

 

[rwsmith]

Be careful, too......

Be careful too that if your gun has the 'new improved' bluing it can't touch anything with ammonia in it as it will turn the gun VIOLET.

 

[dr. mordo]

My 4" M29-10 had this problem. I bought it used with about 10000 rounds thru it. I didn't manage to clean it off, because before I really tried the trigger's frame pin broke and it went back to S&W for warranty work. While there, they reblued it for free, and I've wondered if it wasn't because of the "short screw" issue. I didn't look at it before it went in, but the sight screw is not short now.

Anyway, what I have since read is a pencil eraser will scrub it off.

 

[bigggbbruce]

While Flitz is great stuff, it will eventually remove the bluing if used too many times.

Meaning= It removes blueing every time you use it. Not recommended for blued guns.

 

[BC38]

Would a good coat of wax help to reduce the burn marks? Just a thought...

 

[Dennis]

Just use a nylon brush and clp to scrub the buildup off. Leave the burn marks alone.
Flitz IS abrasive.
I wouldn't even use a pencil eraser on the new bluing.

 

[NPV]

Just use a nylon brush and clp to scrub the buildup off. Leave the burn marks alone.
Flitz IS abrasive.
I wouldn't even use a pencil eraser on the new bluing.

+1 I follow the same procedure I look at the burn rings like a badge of honor. I'd rather have them than no bluing on the front of the cylinder.

 

[Imissedagain]

A nylon brush and Hoppes keeps the ‘79 K22 and especially the minty ‘71 Colt DS quite nice..... no polish/abrasives on bluing.... was how I was taught.

 

[Warren Sear]

My 4" M29-10 had this problem. I bought it used with about 10000 rounds thru it. I didn't manage to clean it off, because before I really tried the trigger's frame pin broke and it went back to S&W for warranty work. While there, they reblued it for free, and I've wondered if it wasn't because of the "short screw" issue. I didn't look at it before it went in, but the sight screw is not short now.

Anyway, what I have since read is a pencil eraser will scrub it off.

400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper will have it looking like new.

 

[arjay]

Soaking the cylinder overnight in a mix of ATF and acetone then using a bronze brush will get most of the lead and soot off

 

[rwsmith]

I have thought.....

Would a good coat of wax help to reduce the burn marks? Just a thought...

I have thought that a good coating of something before shooting would help get the crud off the cylinder of my 686. Vaseline? It would have to stand up to some heat.

 

[Wise_A]

I use a rusty file to remove the burn marks from all of my cylinders. They're noticeably shorter now than when I started, and sort've lumpy, but the cylinder burn just flies right off.

 

[Arquebus357]

Yes, yes, the file needs to be rusty. Iron Oxide (rust) is also an abrasive.

 

[cmj8591]

I bought a sand blaster and air compressor from Harbor Freight. They work great removing the carbon. The only problem is that my X frame is now a J frame!

In all seriousness, I have become an M-Pro7 convert. Their gun cleaner cleans great and will even remove the rings at the front of the cylinder. I have also found that using their CLP seems to make clean up easier after a long range session. Don't use Flitz or any abrasive type cleaners on a blue gun. You will end up with a clean, ruined gun.

 

[UncleEd]

I've found silicon clothes to be among
blued and stainless guns' best frriends.

Give the gun a good wiping before
shooting. With revolvers I'll often wipe
the cylinder face between every 12
shots. I also pay attention to the flutes.

But, yes, if you don't like this approach
then a rusty file or rasp works wonders.

 

[ExRanger714]

I've found a film of Tetra gun lube (or probably any decent lubricant) on the face of the cylinder before shooting allows me to wipe most of the fouling off without scrubbing. Ordinarily I shoot stainless so hard to tell if it works on blue cylinders.

 

[Pisgah]

You are fortunate in that you have learned an important lesson -- a huge percentage of the "expert" advice you get online is pure bunk. Never forget it!

As for Flitz removing bluing -- no question, it will. But the amount it removes depends solely on how often and how hard you use it. Enthusiastically buff off that cyliner face with Flitz after every weekly range session, and you will see blue loss within a few months; use it maybe once or twice a year, just scrubbing it with CLP and a brush on a routine basis, and the Flitz won't remove noticeable bluing in your lifetime.

Now, this applies to the bluing S&W has used over the past several decades. I have not had experience with the process they are using now, but hear plenty that it is not as durable as the old bluing -- but then, that's Internet "wisdom", so there's a real possibility it may be a crock, too.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I have thought that a good coating of something before shooting would help get the crud off the cylinder of my 686. Vaseline? It would have to stand up to some heat.

A spray of Dillon Case Lube on the front of the cylinder and back of the barrel area every 50 or so shots will make cleanup a breeze. The Lanolin makes the carbon into a soft paste that wipes right off.

Sprayed in the ports, works good on a compensator to keep it clean, too.

Other brands of Lanolin case lube skimp on the Lanolin and don't work very well. You can make your own if you wish, Lanolin and Alcohol.

The Slip2000 line of oils and cleaners work very well too.