Burn marks on cylinder

Interesting comments about different experiences. I have 2 3d generation colt single action army revolvers , the newest one I bought a little over a year ago, the older one I bought in 1980. I’ve used flitz on both of those guns for the same issue , burned powder and lead deposites on top of the cylinder. The older gun I’ve shot twice a month for the past 20 years and used the polish on the cylinder all this time and I’ve yet to see signs of blueing loss. Even flitz will tell us it does not remove blueing. I think I better call them again in regard to the new blueing on smith revolvers . I’d hate to ruin 2 new guns for the sake of a few marks on the cylinder. Thanks for all your responses .
 
A spray of Dillon Case Lube on the front of the cylinder and back of the barrel area every 50 or so shots will make cleanup a breeze. The Lanolin makes the carbon into a soft paste that wipes right off.

Sprayed in the ports, works good on a compensator to keep it clean, too.

Other brands of Lanolin case lube skimp on the Lanolin and don't work very well. You can make your own if you wish, Lanolin and Alcohol.

The Slip2000 line of oils and cleaners work very well too.
I agree!slip 2000 is awesome,use it on everything!smoothest ar15 bolt on my gun I have seen,use dit on my shield plus and it makes all my guns run like butter!
 
I'm with raljr1 and some others on this one. I've never worried about burn rings on the front of the cylinder. I don't use any special lotions, potions, Flitz, rasp, sand blaster, etc. or anything more abrasive than a soft cloth to clean the front of the cylinder.

I have a revolver with two cylinders; each with ~.002" barrel/cylinder gap. It is 25+ years old and has burn rings which have never interfered with it's operation. Not going to start Flitzing, filing, grinding, etc. on those burn rings now;)
 

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I received the slightly longer rear sight front screw from Smith & Wesson. Thankfully it is pretty much flush with the bottom of the top strap now. I have a three-day weekend and plan to hit the range to see if the burn marks are any different.

But it is not really an issue for me any longer since one of the forum members recommended the Pro Shot Metal Polishing Cloth for cleaning blued firearms. It does say it is safe for factory blued surfaces on the package. I just got one and the burn marks wiped off the cylinder of my blued Model 19 Classic in seconds.
 
I've found silicon clothes to be among
blued and stainless guns' best frriends.

Give the gun a good wiping before
shooting. With revolvers I'll often wipe
the cylinder face between every 12
shots. I also pay attention to the flutes.

But, yes, if you don't like this approach
then a rusty file or rasp works wonders. :D

My wife discovered wiping down her 22’s with a silicon cloth before shooting really helps in cleaning. Like you she wipes it down after each couple of cylinders full of ammo and then after she’s finished. When I go to clean our guns it’s much easier.

I’ve also found carburetor or brake cleaner on a patch will remove a lot of it.
 
My revolvers are all stainless steel so I don't have to worry about Flitz removing any bluing but it does leave the cylinder faces very shiny so I've gone to soaking the cylinder faces with Butch's Bore Shine (any bore cleaner would probably work too) and letting it on there for an hour or so - the rings then wipe right off.

Ed
 
I wouldn’t worry about it too much. The blue will eventually burn away anyway.
It’s a tool that is meant to be used. Signs of honest use will not affect function.
But I know some people are OCD about things.
 

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