292
Member
I've searched and read about timing, lock up, end shake and gap. Is the anything specific to a 14-2 that I need to check? Going to look at 1 tomorrow. I'm thinking a shooter not a collectors model.
I prefer the Model 14 to have the standard trigger and hammer instead of the target. Of course, they can be replaced, but it's something I look for.
Why? I bought one from the late 60's with standard trigger and hammer and find myself wishing for the targets. Not that it would shoot any better.
Actually, one of the model 14 purchases I made (online) was problematic. It was a 4 screw no dash that I bought from Simpson's maybe five or six years ago. It is true, however, that the 14 is a great gun.
The problem was that the trigger wouldn't return to reset unless the side plate cover was loosened a bit (???). A friend and I took the gun apart several times, and although cleaning and lube help, the problem never cleared up. After taking it apart one last time, I took a fine file and made a couple passes on the interior of the cover plate - just a couple of swipes on the raised round surface that butts up against the trigger assembly.
The gun had been used as a competitive shooter, and the trigger seemed quite light, so I figured that the problem was that someone put in such a light rebound spring that the tension of the cover plate fully tightened kept the trigger from returning to the correct position. My amateur gunsmithing worked - never a problem in the five or six years since.
So, when looking at target revolvers, make sure that any competitive trigger work - or other mods - haven't led to any problems, but that's probably unlikely. Most mods of this sort are made by competent people.
Have fun.