FlYFiShErMaN
US Veteran
How do you remove the black carbon on the forcing cone and the end of the cylinder? I have used Hoppes and a nylon brush on my blued guns for years, but it does not get it all off.
Carbon removal
- Thread starter FlYFiShErMaN
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If the gun is stainless or nickel a lead wipe away cloth works great. If the gun is blued I just live with it as the lead wipe away cloths will take the blueing right off.
Brownell's makes a heavy duty bronze pistol brush that is short enough in length to fit between the forcing cone and the breech. I spin mine in a cordless drill held lightly in the cone. A little bore cleaner or Sweets 7.62 {works good on carbon} and an aluminum rod so you dont hurt the rifling works everytime.
Cap'n Jack
Member
S&W Premium Bore Gel is fantastic stuff for this and also dissolves lead (and copper). Put a bit on and let it sit a while then wipe/brush off. Best I've found for my blue Smiths.
bountyhunter
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Best thing I ahve ever found is auto chrome polish (very cheap, get it at Pep Boys). You can use a Q tip to rub it on the frame around the cone area, then scrub with a nylon bristle brush. Will make the thing look like new.
As to the forcing cone: I sometimes take a nylon bore brush (no rod) and dip it in chrome polish and work it in and out of the cone from the cylinder side. Really cleans it well.
C4 carbon remover is the best I've found. I make it a point to try lots of things, and, it really does work.
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CLEAN BLACK FROM FRONT OF CYLINDER
Very easy........
Use a pencil eraser. It works like a charm. Just make an effort to keep the eraser sheddings out of the ejector rod. If you do get some in, flush it with solvent or thin oil (Remoil). Works very well, but the WHITE erasers (ink eraser) with the nylon brush on the back works even better. Do not use this too many times or too aggressively on a blued gun. Even though it's very soft, the eraser is still a bit of an abrasive.
regards,
chief38
Very easy........
Use a pencil eraser. It works like a charm. Just make an effort to keep the eraser sheddings out of the ejector rod. If you do get some in, flush it with solvent or thin oil (Remoil). Works very well, but the WHITE erasers (ink eraser) with the nylon brush on the back works even better. Do not use this too many times or too aggressively on a blued gun. Even though it's very soft, the eraser is still a bit of an abrasive.
regards,
chief38
bountyhunter
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Does it take off burned on carbon from the frame and inside the cylinder tubes?
I tried a product called "Carbon Killer" that they GUARANTEED would dissolve burned on carbon and it is a scam. It's basically orange cleaner.
http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html
I have been looking for a solvent that would take off the burned on carbon and have yet to see one that actually does.
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BruceM
Member
KG-1 for heavy carbon fouling and KG-12 for the heaviest copper fouling.
Bruce
Bruce
K
kenster
Gunzilla
Leave it sit a day or two if badly carboned.
Leave it sit a day or two if badly carboned.
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Guys..............
You do not need to buy anything if you have a pencil in the house. If you really want to spend money, go to Staples and buy an ink eraser (white) in pencil form (with the white nylon brush on the back) they work even better! If you are cleaning a stainless gun, no worries. With a blued gun, go lightly. This has worked for me for over 35 years, and it should work for you as well. If you can not find one of these ink erasers in pencil form, you can buy a hand held one, and just shave it to a point with a razor blade. Not as handy, but works just the same.
This method will remove all the black carbon rings on the front of the cylinder, under the top strap behind the forcing cone, and anywhere else you need to. When you use the eraser, do so on the gun when it is DRY. Make sure there is no solvent or oil on the gun or it will not work well. The lubricant lessens the effectiveness of the eraser. Again, go LIGHTLY on blued guns, it is still a mild abrasive. Oh, by the way, make sure the eraser is fairly new. If you use an old hardened eraser it won't work very well and it will just break apart.
Happy cleaning!
chief38
You do not need to buy anything if you have a pencil in the house. If you really want to spend money, go to Staples and buy an ink eraser (white) in pencil form (with the white nylon brush on the back) they work even better! If you are cleaning a stainless gun, no worries. With a blued gun, go lightly. This has worked for me for over 35 years, and it should work for you as well. If you can not find one of these ink erasers in pencil form, you can buy a hand held one, and just shave it to a point with a razor blade. Not as handy, but works just the same.
This method will remove all the black carbon rings on the front of the cylinder, under the top strap behind the forcing cone, and anywhere else you need to. When you use the eraser, do so on the gun when it is DRY. Make sure there is no solvent or oil on the gun or it will not work well. The lubricant lessens the effectiveness of the eraser. Again, go LIGHTLY on blued guns, it is still a mild abrasive. Oh, by the way, make sure the eraser is fairly new. If you use an old hardened eraser it won't work very well and it will just break apart.
Happy cleaning!
chief38
OP
FlYFiShErMaN
US Veteran
Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. Looks like a wealth of knowledge for me to check out.....
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