Center Pin for .38 Regulation Police

[Rambler42]

I have a .38 RP and when I close the cylinder they center pin does lock the cylinder, but doesn't move the cylinder lock far enough back to allow the gun to fire. I assume it is worn down. I have looked on several sites and see lots of center pins for .32 RP, but not for a .38. Does anyone know where I can get one or if the center pin from another model can be substituted?

Thanks,

Clifton

 

[John in AK]

To start, the cylinder center pin is the same diameter in contemporary guns for every frame class--K is K, for example, no matter the caliber. The pins are also the same for K, L, and N. What varies is LENGTH--there are short ones for 2", 2.5", 3", and then longer ones for 4" and up. This is a 'fitted' part; It comes slightly long to allow for adjusting the lock-up vis-a-vis the front bolt and the rear bolt.

Before you replace parts, however, find out what's going on in the parts 'chain.' For example, did this problem gradually appear, or happen suddenly? Has the gun been disassembled lately, especially the cylinder? Is it clean--like, no gummed oil in any of the pin/plunger orifices in the 'chain'? Is the spring tension of all springs (there are four: front bolt, rear bolt, cylinder ejector, cylinder center pin)) sufficient? Is anything bent or twisted (yoke, yoke barrel, ejector rod, center pin, bolt plunger, locking bolt)?

Check these things first; Eliminate the easy stuff, and THEN think about replacing parts!

Things are not always as straightforward as they seem. . .

 

[Hondo44]

You haven't given us the vintage of your .38 RP so I can only answer with general information.

Did you get the gun with the problem? Can we rule out someone replacing the ctr pin?

My first reaction is that ctr pins don't wear enough to be too short to lock up the cyl.

Therefore I suspect the front locking bolt has lost spring tension or is gummed up. Push it to the rear with cyl closed and check if the hammer will cock. If so, that's the problem.


Because of the larger .38 chambers, the extractor rods differ from other caliber I and J frames:

The .38/32 does not have a separate extractor spring retaining collar like the .22 and .32, but rather the spring seats against the rear end of extractor rod (no actual collar) because of a smaller .181" diam extractor star shaft and smaller diam extractor spring, both the same as the .38 Spl J frame. The center pin is also different with the spring collar at the front end of the pin with spring in front of it. The .38 S&W and .38 Spl yoke tubes and cyl hole are also smaller at .295".

NOTE: The extractor rods for 2" barrels on I frames and .22/32 and .32 J frames are the same lengths; 1.773".
The 2" rod from a J frame 38 S&W or .38 Special, are ~1/8" longer.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...hase-tell-me-if-im-correct.html#post139278119

Photos by Prodigal Son

 

[Rambler42]

To start, the cylinder center pin is the same diameter in contemporary guns for every frame class--K is K, for example, no matter the caliber. The pins are also the same for K, L, and N. What varies is LENGTH--there are short ones for 2", 2.5", 3", and then longer ones for 4" and up. This is a 'fitted' part; It comes slightly long to allow for adjusting the lock-up vis-a-vis the front bolt and the rear bolt.

Before you replace parts, however, find out what's going on in the parts 'chain.' For example, did this problem gradually appear, or happen suddenly? Has the gun been disassembled lately, especially the cylinder? Is it clean--like, no gummed oil in any of the pin/plunger orifices in the 'chain'? Is the spring tension of all springs (there are four: front bolt, rear bolt, cylinder ejector, cylinder center pin)) sufficient? Is anything bent or twisted (yoke, yoke barrel, ejector rod, center pin, bolt plunger, locking bolt)?

Check these things first; Eliminate the easy stuff, and THEN think about replacing parts!

Things are not always as straightforward as they seem. . .

Always good advice here.

I looked at all the moving parts and made sure they were free, then checked all the springs. Found the lock pin spring at the front of the injector rod was gummy and not moving well. a little cleaning solution and flexing the pin, and a drop of oil and all is well again.