Check Your Lug Wrenches

[Racegunner]

I really ticked off a tire dealer when I had the tires on my F350 rotated. I saw that they were going to use an air wrench to reinstall the lug nuts. I asked them to torque them by hand to 100 lb-ft. They told me the air wrench was calibrated to stall at 100. I asked them for the calibration sheet.

I got them hand-torqued.

I had a vehicle in for new tires and when I tried to remove a tire when I got home I had to use a 4 ft. pipe and I'm 200 lbs. No way my wife would have been able to change a flat with the stamped factory wrench. I called the shop and let them have it. Over torquing the lugs can warp rotors too. They say you are not supposed to use anti-seize, but I put on just a little to combat Michigan's Salt season. Anything on the threads will throw off real torque readings and aluminum wheels should be checked often. I usually go 85 ft. lbs. Click type torque wrenches should be calibrated once in a while. Needles are better.

 

[Capt Steve]

Once again the forum comes through with some truly good info that is going to save me grief down the road. I have a four ended lug wrench that is kept in my F-150 and yes I can loosen the lug nuts with it. Like a fool I just assumed that my new (to me), little A frame camp trailer had normal sized lug nuts on it. WRONG again melon head!

When I tried the lug wrench none of the four ends was large enough. Put a tape on it and the trailer lugs are one inch! Now a four ended lug wrench that has at least one end = one inch was $32.99 at the auto parts store. Instead I bought a one inch, deep socket (half inch drive), for $6.99 and a three foot length of pipe to go over my half inch drive breaker bar. I am going to break them all loose and add a dollop of never seize just for good measure. Now when I get the inevitable flat trailer tire I will be good to go. Oh, BTW, I carry a nice little hydraulic jack just for the trailer. Thanks guys! (o;

 

[Racegunner]

A breaker bar on a rachet can destroy the rachet mechanism if you have to apply a lot of force. Use a breaker bar 1/2" drive instead.

 

[Rule3]

Wow, All great information but I am surprised nobody mentioned the dreaded lug nut LOCK (just like some S&W revolvers)

You need the damn key attachment to remove the one lug nut that has the lock. I have a Honda CRV all wheel drive and have the "key" wire tied to the lug wrench. I also carry a 4 way wrench from when I had a pickup and towed a boat trailer.

If you loose or can't find the "Key" you are SOL.

 

[Eagle 477]

I have a 4 way in both cars..... Can't tell you how many people I have helped that did not have a Lug Wrench or the one they had didn't fit...

Bob

 

[Capt Steve]

A breaker bar on a rachet can destroy the rachet mechanism if you have to apply a lot of force. Use a breaker bar 1/2" drive instead.

Perhaps I wasn't clear...the breaker bar (wrong term???), I refer to is just an unratcheted half inch drive that will accept the socket. The piece of pipe will, if needed, slide over the bar and provide additional leverage. (o;

 

[jdh]

Racers trick, put anti-seize compound on the studs before you torque the nuts. More accurate/even torquing and don't get stuck as often.

 

[3rd Gen Neal]

Perhaps I wasn't clear...the breaker bar (wrong term???), I refer to is just an unratcheted half inch drive that will accept the socket. The piece of pipe will, if needed, slide over the bar and provide additional leverage. (o;

You actually used the exact term, breaker bar=longer than usual wrench w-3/8 or 1/2 drive to accept sockets but does not ratchet...they are for "breaking" unusually tight bolts that would damage a ratchet.

 

[Sven]

Another thing to watch out for: some vehicles have stamped chrome over-lays on the lug nuts that will come off with age. Both my Jeep Wrangler and my wife's Grand Cherokee have (had) them. If that stamped piece comes off, the lugnut is now undersized and the factory lug wrench will slip.

As much as I like never-sieze, I believe the experts who say not to use it on lugnuts. I've been told to clean off the studs with a wire brush and put a dab of lock tight on to seal the threads and keep them from rusting.

I also carry a high-lift jack and 4-way wrench. I've even used the high-lift in the parking lot here at work to help a friend with a flat on his Chevy pickup when the factory jack wouldn't lift the axle high enough to change his flat.

 

[ect1222t]

Another thing to watch out for: some vehicles have stamped chrome over-lays on the lug nuts that will come off with age. Both my Jeep Wrangler and my wife's Grand Cherokee have (had) them. If that stamped piece comes off, the lugnut is now undersized and the factory lug wrench will slip.

Yeah, that happened to me as well. Luckily, the flat happened in the driveway. The lug nut under the overlays is actually 18mm in size. A half inch drive deep well socket in 18mm and a breaker bar are needed to remove them. However, it's much easier to have the lug nuts replaced with chrome after market lug nuts when you have your tires rotated. 4 way lug wrenches are great, but they don't come in 18mm, at least not in my area. BTW, I don't own a cell phone, main reason is on my meager Social Security Disability check, I can't afford it. There are also many areas out here where you can't get a signal, or so I'm told. -Ed.

 

[Spotteddog]

Thanks JDH!
"Torquing" a dry thread (especially one in an operating environment as hostile as wheel studs operate in) is an exercise in futility. The tension values and at rest positions will vary with each attempt. Unless the lug nut's threads, and the stud's threads are perfectly clean. And/or lubed?

 

[clint_lnl]

and if you car has wheel locks, never over torque them. and make sure you get it back. mechanic have been known to put them back not in the same place that you keep it or forget to return it.

 

[tomf52]

Better off carrying a long handle 1/2in drive ratchet or breaker bar and correct size deep 6pt socket. Even a cheap one from Harbor Freight (or a used one from a local flea market or yard sale) is better than most factory lug wrenches.

Always make sure you or your mechanic coats the lugs with Never-Sieze too.

Never ,ever put Never-Sieze on lug nuts! We did an extensive study of that practice on the job on our fleet vehicles and had many instances of lugs loosening.

 

[mtgianni]

Costco hand torques the wheels and signs off on the sheet i get.

 

[jimmyj]

Hi:
Excuses my limited knowledge, but how much harm would it do to "Creep Along" on a flat tire?
Jimmy

 

[Jack Flash]

JimmyJ:
You will almost certainly ruin the tire if you drive any distance on it while it's flat. So if the tire was repairable for $15 and a new one costs $150, plus tax etc., there goes over $135.

You might also ruin the wheel ("rim"). Junkyard wheels may go for $50 or so. Buy them at the dealer and be ready to pay $300 each. Or you could buy cheapie aftermarkets at Discount Tire if you don't mind a mismatch.

I think the earlier point was that ruining a tire and wheel may be advisable rather than trying to hike out of the desert in the middle of the day with no water. In such a scenario, it may not be unreasonable to sacrifice the whole car if that's what it comes to.

 

[Spotteddog]

When I was in charge of a police fleet, re-torquing of wheel lugs were part of each squad's lubrication service. Which in my case meant the lug nuts were being checked for proper torque every 3K miles. The wheels were rotated every 6K. To the best of my knowledge we never (in maintenance) bent a wheel. And in the entire time running the operation, we never lost a wheel? But admittedly we were pretty "old school".

 

[2Loud4You]

Never ,ever put Never-Sieze on lug nuts! We did an extensive study of that practice on the job on our fleet vehicles and had many instances of lugs loosening.

We use copper grease on lug nuts at our shop. It's a thick, high temp grease that lubricates the threads nicely for a better torque reading. We've never had an instance where lug nuts have come loose and we've been doing this for years.

 

[klondike]

I had an old truck that came with a four sided wrench. It must have been made with very soft steel or lost it's temper in a fire, because when I needed it, the wrench twisted off like the steel was made of taffy.

 

[2000Z-71]

Thanks for the reminder. I went out this morning and broke all the lugs loose on our new 2010 XTerra and re-torqued them. Good thing I did, a couple were a bitch to break loose with a breaker bar. I need to get a breaker bar and a 21mm deep well socket to store in the truck for such an occasion.