Cleaning around forcing cone

Mikeinkaty

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How do you guys do it? I have a 686+P, 3" barrel, L-frame.

Above the forcing cone is the worse. Can I use a brass brush? I use Ed's Red elsewhere with a cloth.

I have found that Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth will clean the front of the cylinder to like new.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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I use solvent with a bronze brush and also 'floss' around the top of the barrel area with a strip of thin t-shirt material. There's a lot of good solvents, but I tend to go with Bore Tech Eliminator as it really takes care of the carbon. Comes out looking good...
 
Yup, floss around the top of the forcing cone with thin material. . .just like polishing shoes. Q-Tips are always good. Brushes and even toothbrushes are a must. It takes a long time to get that area clean. Oil is all you need with all this other stuff. If you are going to keep shooting the gun, don't bother getting it too clean. If you are going to sell the gun or put it up as a part of your collection, it takes a while. That whole area can be restored to a factory new appearance if you spend the time. When the Q-Tip comes out pure white, you know you are done.
 
I use stainless steel brushes on my stainless steel revolvers. They have never scratched the gun. They hold up much better than brass / bronze brushes.
 
Dental picks are God's gift to nit pickers! An added benefit is they're free for the asking---the good ones anyway. You have to pay for the not so good ones---those they call dental picks, but which have never been nor ever will be anywhere near a tooth (and wouldn't work if they were)----and seem to be made in countries you never heard of---and can't pronounce.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Yup, floss around the top of the forcing cone with thin material. . .just like polishing shoes. Q-Tips are always good. Brushes and even toothbrushes are a must. It takes a long time to get that area clean. Oil is all you need with all this other stuff. If you are going to keep shooting the gun, don't bother getting it too clean. If you are going to sell the gun or put it up as a part of your collection, it takes a while. That whole area can be restored to a factory new appearance if you spend the time. When the Q-Tip comes out pure white, you know you are done.

That's exactly how I look at my gun cleaning. When I was new to shooting/only had a few guns, I was fanatical about cleaning after each trip to the range. Front of the cylinder, forcing cone area had to be spotless.

Now, my long term storage/safe queen guns are kept spotless, but my regular shooters are cleaned more efficiently. Barrel bore is cleaned, gun is wiped down and lubed, and it is good... It also saves the blued/nickel guns a lot of wear and tear not constantly scrubbing/cleaning these areas, just to have to do it again after your next range trip. YMMV

Also, it helps save a lot of elbow grease if you just let your solvent soak in around the forcing cone area for a while before cleaning it.
 
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Mine weren't clean when I got them and they probably won't be cleaned until the next owner gets them.
 
Scotch Brite

I always use a scotch brite pad. Those green scrubbing pads for washing dishes. I just dip it in some Hoppes #9 and pull it back and forth after forcing it down behind the forcing cone. Those pads work really well on your cylinders as well.
 
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