Converting J frame to shoot 9mm

I think the conversion would be a consideration if you are shooting competition and want to carry only one caliber ammo.

For self defense purposes, rounds on target are the key regardless of the caliber. As for reloading speed, that will count in competition. In real life carry and shoot situations if you are still shooting after five rounds or six you are in deep S&%t.

My LOD shooting experience were 2 shots and the fight was over.
 
"Have no background on this conversion but one might think that shooting a round that's .355 out of a bore that's .357 would result in a good bit of blowby past the slu".

Since the Saami spec for .38Sp, .357 Mag, and 9mm land and groove diameter are all identical at .346 and .355, what causes the blowby?
 
Why not just buy a 940

You're reading my mind, again, Joe! I like my 940.

Jim offered a reasonable answer, "weight," but I quit worrying about that when I gave up my M&P 340 for my 640 Pro.
 

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FWIW, my friends who own convertible Ruger Blackhawks say the 9 mm in a .357 bore works well if you stick with jacketed bullets. Cast, don't bother.
I imagine the same holds true with this conversion.

Stick a .359" in the 9mm and it is very acceptable. Just a matter of a couple of coats of powder and a bake.
 
My 940 does not like cast lead bullets. They tumble at 7 rds.

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Jacketed or plated no problems.

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" but I quit worrying about that when"

I'll bet you are younger than me :-)
 
And I wonder why too?
Actually, you don't need a 940 barrel at all. Years ago I converted a 1992 mfg. no dash 640 from .38 to 9mm with one of the last 940 cylinders the S&W Performance Center had on the shelf and that gun will put 5 rounds into one hole at 7 yards with 3 different loads. The guy who sold me the cylinder told me that the 940 barrels were .357 caliber despite the 9mm rollmark. The only difference was the external contours.
 
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My experience with shooting 9x19 in a Smith revolver is a mixed bag.
Years ago, Tom the founder of TK Custom came to the ICORE regional, the Wheelgunner's Revenge at Niles, Michigan.
He saw my future wife, a sponsored USPSA Single Stack/Limited shooter, taking a dab into round guns, competing with my 6" 686 that I'd worked over for action pistol competition.
She was fine with the shooting part, of course, but without having put time into reloading she wasn't going to get into the top ten. And, given the amount of practice she devoted to Single Stack, the Comp IIIs weren't going to get the call.
Still, Tom saw potential and sponsored her with a new cylinder and a pile of his excellent 9x19/.38 Super moonclips plus a loader.
Basically, factory 9mm ammunition could not get anywhere near to making the power floor in USPSA, even in a six-inch barrel.
I made some moderate .38 Super loads with SnS 147s but she never did cotton to the whole thing.
I tried some souped-up .38 Supers that made Major power level. I hesitate to think of what the pressure may have been, but the stout 686 didn't seem to mind.
In the end, I got better scores with my .45 ACP revo, which is a lot faster to reload and rather milder to shoot compared to mid-level .357 magnum, so the outfit got put aside.
These days, the converted cylinder goes into the 4" 586 and gets fired mostly with .38 Super; I have quite a supply of the stuff from the USPSA days.
If ever I were to carry it, I'd consider the 9x23 Silvertips I have a small supply of. These 125s exit the blue gun at just over 1500fps. That's serious.
In general, though, getting full power out of the conversion is not usually the case.
In our training business, we did see a number of the Ruger LCR 9s, and many of them did have some crimp-jumping issues with ordinary factory FMJs. This often ties the gun up completely, so if it's a self-defense gun, this would need to verified.
Oddly, we have not seen one of these guns in a class in several years now.
To the point about 9x19 and .38 Special being more or less equal in effectiveness for self defense, or the .38 being less powerful, I'd say that only stands until some Buffalo Bore is located.
His 158gr SWC-HP comes smoking out of my 2" Detective Special at well over 900fps, and in some of my 4" guns comes close to 1100fps. That power level, combined with the highly-effective bullet design, puts just about any 9x19 on the trailer.
One more thing- the quality of the TK work and products is absolutely excellent and a joy to behold. Top notch.
 
Were these some you reloaded yourself? How snugly did the bullets fit the throat of the revolver? Do you know what diameter the throat is and what diameter the bullets are? I'm considering a 9mm conversion myself and trying to see how feasible it is. Any info appreciated.
 
armprairie, I have to confess to not doing the science.
The only factory loads I tried were the aforementioned 9x19 FMJs. I might guess they were Blazer Brass, but it was long ago.
Everything else was by me. I pretty much always use SnS Casting, and most all of what I've shot through this cylinder were 147gr round-nose coated.
At this suggestion, I measured the throats with inexpensive calipers I happen to have near my computer and got between 0.356 and 0.357", for whatever that's worth.
The accuracy of my .38 Super loads has been satisfactory, but then, I don't use them for bullseye, just mostly action pistol.
Edited to add:
While you are cautioned by the gunsmith conversion guys not to shoot .357 Magnum in your re-cut chambers, on the few occasions I've tried it, not much unusual happened. The fired cases did show a small ring at the Super's mouth cut but it wasn't a big deal to me.
If I was carrying a small revolver heavier than a 642, my preference would be something like the 640 Pro with the good sights, and cut for .38 Super.
9x23 Winchester would be shootable I suppose but I will guess the blast and recoil would be prohibitive. Super is a good balance.
Why Super over .357 Magnum reduced recoil? Because of the reloading process.
.38 or .357 cases in a moon are pretty floppy and the moons themselves are quite fragile. The .38 Supers are much less of both of those faults and can be thrown around with some force.
And the big advantage of the moons during a reload is ejection. Even when I was at the top of my revo action pistol game, my .38 Special reloads in the 586 were never as swift or as positive as the moonclipped .38 Super ones were.
Under stress, the moonclip with the short case length is superior.
 
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I have a novice question, why is the pressure less for 38sp+P vs 9mmLuger (20,000psi vs 35,000psi resp.) when the volume of powder is much greater (almost 1/2" longer), powder type?
 
steve, the .38 Special is an older cartridge that was used in revolvers that could not handle more than that specific pressure, 17,500psi if my memory holds.
That is true of many older cartridges from the black powder era. Black powder required far more volume yet produced lower pressures than smokeless powder.
That's why the old Special case is so big.
The 9x19 was designed for smokeless propellants and never needed that volume. Meanwhile, the improving designs of the guns it would be used in allowed the higher pressure level, 35,000psi.
 
Bigger'n me too.... :-)

P.S. TK quality is indeed superb.
 
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If I were interested in doing the conversion from 38 special to 9mm for my j-frame 642, any one have an idea of how much $$ it would take? and also, how long to get it back?

Joe
 
If I were interested in doing the conversion from 38 special to 9mm for my j-frame 642, any one have an idea of how much $$ it would take? and also, how long to get it back?

Joe

it took 7 days from Michigan from the time I shipped to the time I received my Cylinder back (USPS)

I purchased all the bells and whistles so I spent about $500
but you can just get the conversion and clips for under $350

And with the price of ammo (If you go to the range a lot like I do)
The conversion will pay for itself in about 5 weeks ;)

About to go to the range today (First shots and thoughts)

regards, Rick
 
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Buy a titanium .38Sp/.357Mag cylinder from Midway for $139. Have TK or Pinnacle convert it (check first to see if they will still do titanium). Use your existing star and yoke with it. That way, your pistol isn't ever out of operation.
 
Just to show that 9mm revolvers are in demand, I found a used Ruger lcr9 on gunbroker, bid was at $1015 with 14 hours left!
(I bought one new a couple years ago for $479)
 
Have no background on this conversion but one might think that shooting a round that's .355 out of a bore that's .357 would result in a good bit of blowby past the slug. Don

you are correct, blowby has effect for sure.

from what i understand the accuracy is ok at 21+/- feet. but rapidly deteriorates beyond that range.

when comparing sammi specs for 9mm vs 38/357 the majority of blow by happens while the round is still in the chamber.

the 9mm projo dia (.3555) is .0245+/- smaller than the 38 chamber dia (.380)

the 9mm round (9mm case length .754) sits far enough back in the cyl/chamber that it free runs once discharged for about .5056 inside the 38 chamber (chamber length 1.2596) till .358 dia is met which stops its "rattle" and gets it back on track.

all this motion is in pre forcing cone and bore(.346) groove (.355) contact

357 mag cylinders will have more free run distance (.6446) thus more blowby taken into account

depending on your use it may be good for you, but shooting 50 yards may be a problem. but for the reloaders it creates another issue, the case swell you get in your 38/357 brass from the 9mm rechamber area dia (.394 to .380 taper) is said to render your brass non-reloadable. that you would have to double check to verify for sure
 
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Originally Posted by reccpd101 View Post
I first figured that out years ago carrying a 1917 with a shortened barrel on duty. A N frame double speedloader pouch would carry 24 rounds of 45 ACP while only 12 rounds of 357 or 38. I still carried a 38 J frame BUG in an ankle holster with a 2x2x2 dump pouch between the speedloader pouch of 45 and my duty holstered 4" 1917.

Thanks for the tip. I occasionally carry a 625 .45ACP with 2 moon clips in a double case made for K/L frame speed loaders. I've got a double pouch and a single pouch for N frame speed loaders I used back when I carried a 25-5 .45 Colt. Sure enough, they hold twice as many moon clips as speed loaders.



I did the same thing, starting in the late '80s, early '90s. My .45 ACP revolvers were a S&W 1917, cut to 4", an as -issued Colt 1917 and a 5" that became a 3" M625.

My BUG was Colt Police Positive Special cut to 2", which was replaced with a nickel 2" Colt Cobra.
 
"the 9mm projo dia (.3555) is .0245+/- smaller than the 38 chamber dia (.380)"

That's interesting. I just measured the cylinder face diameters in one of my 9mm 637-2 J-frame conversions. They ranged from 0.356 to 0.360, which is identical to my .38Sp and .357Mag cylinders for the same gun.

I wonder why yours are larger?

My three 637-2 conversions are coke can accurate at a hundred feet, which is good enough to meet my needs.
 
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"the 9mm projo dia (.3555) is .0245+/- smaller than the 38 chamber dia (.380)"

That's interesting. I just measured the cylinder face diameters in one of my 9mm 637-2 J-frame conversions. They ranged from 0.356 to 0.360, which is identical to my .38Sp and .357Mag cylinders for the same gun.

I wonder why yours are larger?

My three 637-2 conversions are coke can accurate at a hundred feet, which is good enough to meet my needs.


i just pulled numbers from sammi spec sheets. didnt add or subtract the +/- tolerances from the pages

the throat dia in sammi is the "till .358 dia is met which stops its "rattle" and gets it back on track"

i should have put throat by the .358 number

heres a link to the sammi cartridge and chamber info if anyone wants to have a copy

Cartridge & Chamber Drawings – SAAMI
 
Here's the image you linked.
What is the relation to 9mm/.38Sp?
I'm missing something.
 

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Here's the image you linked.
What is the relation to 9mm/.38Sp?
I'm missing something.

The link was just to the page for all of the cartridge and case specs.

That way folks could get all of them if they want em instead of just pistol and revolver.

The blue words on the screen link you to the different types just click pistol revolver. Then scroll thru till you find the ones you want to look at

The other blue links get to to the rest rimfire . Pistol and revolver, rifle, shotshell

I should have linked each one but didn't think about it
 
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