Couple of Primers Didn't Ignite First Time-**UPDATE**

[Rule3]

I am not real familiar with that press and prime system but if it is this one, you can buy the primer system on line.

This video shows how to set up and then another shows how to fill the primer tube.

I myself would not want a primer tube full that does not have a "blast shield" like he mentions about the Redding Press.

In a tube like that you can get a chain fire of all the primers Not sure if the Hornady tubes are extra strong or what??

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbDpKbI0k60[/ame]

 

[flyfishinjunkee]

Did the cases have POWDER in them?

 

[alwslate]

Just checked it out. Looks good. Might pick one up for my birthday in a few months, but it's gonna be a long time before I prime anything. I have thousands of loaded rounds already in the can and close to a thousand primed cases ready for powder. Does it only use RCBS dies? I load with Leee dies since they offer the 4 die set to crimp separately. Thanks for all the help.

The one I am refering to is a small bench mounted primer
that is only about six inches tall. You put a primer in the ram
cup, put a case in the shell holder and seat the primer. It's
very handy. It doesn't use dies, just a shell holder to prime
one case at a time. The shell holders just snap in and out
like they do on a press ram and don't have to be RCBS.

 

[kbm6893]

The one I am refering to is a small bench mounted primer
that is only about six inches tall. You put a primer in the ram
cup, put a case in the shell holder and seat the primer. It's
very handy. It doesn't use dies, just a shell holder to prime
one case at a time. The shell holders just snap in and out
like they do on a press ram and don't have to be RCBS.

Yes I meant the shell holder, not dies. Looks like a handy tool. Does it use the tube to hold the primers? The video rule3 posted mentions a blast shield to contain the blast should one primer go off and set off the others.

 

[Rule3]

Here is the one you can mount to the press.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press Automatic Primer Feeder

Here is a bench mounted system

RCBS Automatic Bench Priming Tool

Priming on the press eliminates handling the cartridge one more time, speeds things up a bit. Everyone has their own preferences.

 

[kbm6893]

Went to the range with the 67-1 and a Ruger Service Six. Brought 140 rounds of my reloads and 50 rounds of factory American Eagle.

Fired 90 rounds of my reloads through the Service Six. No misfires.

Fired 50 reloads through the 67. 2 fails to fire first strike. Fired the American Eagle through the 67. All fired first time.

So I'm guessing around 10 fails to fire first time in the 67 out of around 400 rounds. No fails to fire in the Ruger, probably 300-400 rounds fired.

The strain screw is tight on the 67. Could the beefier hammer on the Ruger just be better at striking a slightly raised primer? I find it odd that the Ruger has had zero fails to fire.

 

[Rule3]

If neither gun has been fiddled with I would bet the Ruger is much heavier trigger, I know mine are,

The fact that factory ammo all worked indicates to me it is primer seating even though Federal primers are easier to go bang, Try a another brand of factory like Win or Blazer, any cheap stuff that is not Federal, Yes, It costs a few bucks but it's a good test,

 

[kbm6893]

If neither gun has been fiddled with I would bet the Ruger is much heavier trigger, I know mine are,

The fact that factory ammo all worked indicates to me it is primer seating even though Federal primers are easier to go bang, Try a another brand of factory like Win or Blazer, any cheap stuff that is not Federal, Yes, It costs a few bucks but it's a good test,

I thought the same thing, but I'm running roughly 2 fails out of 100, so it is possible that one box of ammo wouldn't prove anything. I've certainly fired 100 rounds of reloads without a failure in my 67.

Just bums me a but since the 67 is the wife's house gun. I put Crimson trace grips on it to help her with her accuracy since she's not much of a shooter. Of course I keep the speedloaders loaded with federal nyclad factory ammo.

 

[Nevada Ed]

You stated that you have about 1,500 rounds already loaded.

They all sit "Flat" on a table top, right ?

Have a fun time.

 

[kbm6893]

You stated that you have about 1,500 rounds already loaded.

They all sit "Flat" on a table top, right ?

Have a fun time.

Sure. I inspect them after I seat the primer. Look fine to me but I suppose w few could be a bit high. I don't care for target fun but the 67 is a gun designated for home defense and I don't like it not firing. And I sure don't want to buy 3-400 rounds of factory 38 to test it. The high cost of ammo is what got me into reloading.

But I suppose that will give me fresh brass to load.

 

[jsfricks]

Even though I trust my reloading skills I only use factory ammo for self defense.

 

[alwslate]

Yes I meant the shell holder, not dies. Looks like a handy tool. Does it use the tube to hold the primers? The video rule3 posted mentions a blast shield to contain the blast should one primer go off and set off the others.

One picture is worth a thousand words they say. The problem
is that it can be impossible to find one when you want it.
With all my stacks or piles of books I can't seem to find a
pic of this simple little tool. No tubes, no blast shield needed,
one primer in the cup, one case in the shell holder, seat and
repeat. I will find a picture and post it later.

 

[scooter123]

Kbm, if you haven't checked the firing pin protrusion on your model 67 I would suggest that you take the time to do it. It is really very simple, you unload the revolver, open the cylinder, hold the cylinder release to the rear and pull the trigger. Hold the trigger to the rear and then compare the amount the firing pin sticks out through the recoil shield to the thickness of a Dime. BTW, it's call the Dime Test and is really only applicable to S&W revolvers with a hammer mounted firing pin because the newer frame mounted firing pins operate partially as an Inertial firing pin.

Anyhow, if that firing pin protrusion isn't equal to the thickness of a Dime you will have problems with misfires, especially in double action shooting. I recently purchased a 1971 vintage model 19-3 and it had a short Hammer Nose from the factory. Note, I'm basing that assumption on the nearly unfired condition of this model 19. First time out I had problems with about a 30% misfire rate with my 38 special handloads, so I used an old primer cup to shim the strain screw and increase the mainspring tension. Dong this increase the weight of the DA trigger from just a touch under 9 lbs. to 10 lbs. 9 ounces per my Lyman Digital Trigger gage. With my 38 special handloads the DA misfire rate dropped to 2 out of 100. On this outing I had loaded up some special light Magnums with CCI 550 primers and the misfire rate for this ammunition was over 60%.

The solution for me was to purchase a new Power Custom Hammer Nose from Brownell's and the instructions that came with that hammer nose stated it would probably require some fitting for length because they were produced as Extended Length Hammer Noses. They were not kidding, I end up using a diamond file to remove 0.015 inch from the tip so the protrusion was just a touch longer than the thickness of a Dime.

Now, I have removed that primer cup from the strain screw and with a DA trigger just under 9 lbs. I have not had one single misfire since.
In addition with the deeper impression in the primers I suspect that I could probably reduce the DA trigger to something between 7 or 8 lbs. but I rather like a 9 lbs. DA trigger so I'm calling it good the way it is right now.

BTW, that Light Magnum I came up with is actually loaded in that gray area between 38 +P and 357 Magnums and it is quite pleasant to shoot in my 2 1/2 inch model 19. The specifics of the load are a 158 grain Hornady XTP, a CCI 550 primer, and 7.8 grains of Accurate #5. Sometime next summer I'll chronograph this load but I'll be surprised if it's making more than 900 fps and I expect I'll be able to shoot many many thousands without doing any harm to that sweet little revolver.

 

[alwslate]

Yes I meant the shell holder, not dies. Looks like a handy tool. Does it use the tube to hold the primers? The video rule3 posted mentions a blast shield to contain the blast should one primer go off and set off the others.

Well since I tend to keep stuff, too much sometimes, I found
the manual that came with the primer. It's only about 6" tall
and primes one case at a time but it's pretty fast to use
once you get used to it. Something to consider, here's a pic.

 

[hangnoose]

RAISED PRIMERS

KBM if this really is your problem it is a very easy fix. Now remember primers need to be BELOW repeat BELOW flush so a table top won't tell you that. No worries, simply move the pad of your index finger across the bottom of the primers & you should be able to feel that they are below flush. You should also be able to see if the bottom of the primers are flat, as opposed to still rounded. It's NOT EASY to see if they are 1/100"- 1/1000" too high, a table top test will tell you if they are too high. The ones you are unsure of simply put them in the primer 1 more time, this should seat them correctly & recheck, it takes very little time. good luck. Have you ever removed the side plate on the 67 and given it a good cleaning & inspection? A spritz with some non chlorinated brake cleaner may dislodge some varnished oil/ sludge/crud & free up the firing pin just enough. Remember we are talking about tiny fractions of an inch. Then re-oil LIGHTLY, like a couple drops on a Q-tip lightly.

 

[kbm6893]

KBM if this really is your problem it is a very easy fix. Now remember primers need to be BELOW repeat BELOW flush so a table top won't tell you that. No worries, simply move the pad of your index finger across the bottom of the primers & you should be able to feel that they are below flush. You should also be able to see if the bottom of the primers are flat, as opposed to still rounded. It's NOT EASY to see if they are 1/100"- 1/1000" too high, a table top test will tell you if they are too high. The ones you are unsure of simply put them in the primer 1 more time, this should seat them correctly & recheck, it takes very little time. good luck. Have you ever removed the side plate on the 67 and given it a good cleaning & inspection? A spritz with some non chlorinated brake cleaner may dislodge some varnished oil/ sludge/crud & free up the firing pin just enough. Remember we are talking about tiny fractions of an inch. Then re-oil LIGHTLY, like a couple drops on a Q-tip lightly.

The sideplate has been off and the internals cleaned. I'm not sure it's a good idea to reseat primers on a loaded round. I have over 1500 of these rounds loaded so I don't see myself inspecting them all. Maybe I'll do it as I go to the range 150 or so at a time. I don't use reloads for self defense so as long as the issue is a raised primer then I'm cool with it. I'll press more firmly from now on. Gives me a good flinching test anyway. I won't be shooting for a while now that the weather is turning cold here but the next time I go to the range I'll bring some factory again and see if it happens with those. I doubt it will. The bench mounted primer looks like a good option, but I kind of enjoy the hand held method. I can do it sitting on the couch rather than standing at my press. I tumbled the brass I shot yesterday. I separated the factory brass so I'll prime those and put them into the ready to load box. I'll make sure I give a good squeeze and keep those finished rounds separate. If none of them misfire I'll know what the problem was.

 

[ageingstudent]

Did you compare the hammer strikes on the primers between the Ruger and the 67, and between s/a & d/a fired cases? That might tell you something. Just trying to help you narrow your focus by ruling things out. The dime test scooter mentioned is a good rule of thumb for the Smith also. Seems like if your primers aren't seated you would have more issues with both guns in both modes of fire. It could be brand specific issue between the 67 and a particular primer, etc. Perhaps you should try some factory loads that use the same primer as your handloads, and make some handloads that are a close match to those factory loads dimensionally.

These sorts of issues can be nagging. I try to start with the simplest possibility first and methodically test for problems and rule them out 1at a time. Troubleshoot from the outside in if you will. You'll get there just be patient and methodical.

 

[Rule3]

KBM if this really is your problem it is a very easy fix. Now remember primers need to be BELOW repeat BELOW flush so a table top won't tell you that. No worries, simply move the pad of your index finger across the bottom of the primers & you should be able to feel that they are below flush. You should also be able to see if the bottom of the primers are flat, as opposed to still rounded. It's NOT EASY to see if they are 1/100"- 1/1000" too high, a table top test will tell you if they are too high. The ones you are unsure of simply put them in the primer 1 more time, this should seat them correctly & recheck, it takes very little time. good luck. Have you ever removed the side plate on the 67 and given it a good cleaning & inspection? A spritz with some non chlorinated brake cleaner may dislodge some varnished oil/ sludge/crud & free up the firing pin just enough. Remember we are talking about tiny fractions of an inch. Then re-oil LIGHTLY, like a couple drops on a Q-tip lightly.

Never ever try to reseat a primer on a LOADED round.

But I see this doesn't matter now,

 

[kbm6893]

Thanks for all the help. I had 50 cases primed and ready to load and I have the 50 factory cases from yesterday. I double checked the ones already primed and I will give a good squeeze on the ones from yesterday that I will prime tomorrow. I'll bring those 100 reloads and a box of 50 factory loads to the range when I can this winter. If any of those reloads fail to ignite I will know it is not a primer issue, because every one of those have been checked and rechecked and the primer is below flush and seated with authority.

Happy New Year, everyone! Or maybe I should fire off a cylinder or two tonight at midnight (just kidding!)

 

[hangnoose]

RULE 3 IS CORRECT!

NEVER re-seat on a fully loaded round. I was thinking you had them primed & not loaded. I'm only harping on primer seating as I went thru it with 2 tricked out Jack Weigand Rugers and blamed CCI also. He (JW) told me REPEATEDLY the fault was mine & he was right. Squeezing the hand primer harder will break the handle eventually, ask me how I know x 2, and could lead to carpal tunnel syndrome. A loading block that holds 80-100 rounds is a cheap & handy reloading tool that you put the primed case in as seated, bottom side up, & allows you to check them (before loading) in seconds. sorry to all for any drama. Checking primers for correct seating depth after they are loaded is too late, as I'm sure you now know.

 

[Nevada Ed]

one final thought..........

is the firing pin in good shape and not worn or damaged or its space clean from "Gunk", which might cause a short stroke?

Good shooting.

 

[dmy]

Q.C. with primers

To the O.P.:
Funny coincidence. I recently purchased my first 1000 Federal Champion large pistol primers and small pistol primers after using CCI lpp and spp for the last 25 years. Until recently, never had a problem with CCIs. Lately, I had a couple of primers which took 2 strikes with the firing pin to ignite. I also noticed my last 2000 CCIs also decap differently because the anvil seems to fall apart from the primer housing about 50% of the time and it takes me multiple strokes and lengthening the decapping pin to remove the CCI primer.
Last week, I posted my observations about the Federals on The Firing Line ("Q.C. on Federal primers") under the reloading section. Long story short, I had problems with 4 primers from the first 100 card from my first 1000 primer box of Federals. 2 primers would not seat at all and 2 other primers would not fully seat. I was able to seat CCIs in the latter and seated the next Federal primer in order in the former.
Someone questioned whether I uniform my primer pockets. The answer is "no", but I do clean them each time before reloading and I never had trouble with seating other CCI and Federal primers, so I don't believe there was/is a problem with these particular 4 cases. The next 300 Federal primers were not a problem, although the Federals do not fall freely in my RCBS primer feeder tube (which has flawlessly fed tens of thousands of CCIs without having to tap the tube to get the primers to fall) which is part of my 25 year old Rock Chucker. I have to admit that all of the Federals LPPs which I shot so far (only 200) have gone bang on the first try. I'm not sold on Federals, but also noticed that CCIs are not as consistent as they used to be.

 

[kbm6893]

Went to the range last week with 150 newly reloaded rounds that I gave an extra firm squeeze on the priming tool as I seated the primers. All fired on the first try. So mystery solved I guess. Improperly seated primers.