Hello - Last week I bought a Model 66-2 at my local Gander Mountain. It looks to be in nice shape, and today I started doing a routine cleaning before I shoot it. I noticed that the three sideplate screws were just a little loose, so I tightened them all up. After I did so, however, the crane was very tight to open. I've figured out that the front screw holds the crane in. (When I tighten the other two screws but loosen the front screw, the crane opens just fine). So I am thinking that the problem is that the front screw is a little bit too long, and is binding on the indent in the crane. (I swapped the front screw with the screw behind it; no change.) Therefore, I believe that the obvious and simple solution is to file the screw down a bit. The gun comes with a one-year warranty, so I can take it back and have the gunsmith do so. So I have a few questions: 1) Am I correct in assuming that it's a simple matter of just filing the screw down a bit, 2) Is there anything else I need to consider if the gunsmith does file the screw down, 3) Should a competent gunsmith be able to do this, or should I have him send it back to S&W, 4) Would it be easier to call S&W and see if they will send me a replacement screw, or send the screw back and have them shorten it. (Although I wonder if they would do so without requiring me to send the whole gun in.) Thanks.
Crane binding on my 66-2: Need some advice
- Thread starter gunsrfun1
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IMO, you are competent to file the screw until it is "fitted" properly. I make my opinion on you post and knowledge of subject. Get a good, sharp, jewelers file and take minimal off and keep checking it.
Safe the money and do it yourself
Safe the money and do it yourself
I agree with VM. My guess is that some one replaced the screws to sell the gun, due to having boogered up the originals. The replacement screws like those from Brownells need to be fitted, and more than likey the former owner didn't go that far.
Thanks, sounds reasonable. I don't know that much about guns, so am I correct in assuming that these three screws merely hold the side plate on (that is, they don't interact with the action, so to speak), except for the front one that also prevents the crane from sliding out?
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Bullseye Smith
Member
You only need to file the one in front just below the barrel and cylinder.
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On revolvers of the era, the crane screw was fitted, and this is why, when removing side plate screws on S&W revolvers, it is important that all screws go back in the holes from which they were removed. I have seen plenty of new S&Ws of that era that had crane screws that were too long, causing the cylinder to bind a little on opening or closing.
andyo5
Member
Chances are your cylinder ejector rod is unscrewing. It has reverse threads, so tighten it by rotating it counterclockwise. I'd try this before filing enything. If this doesn't work, let the gunsmith at Gander look at it. After all, they sold it to you.
I seriously doubt that the screw needs to be shortened.
I seriously doubt that the screw needs to be shortened.
I concur with the others, that the problem is the length of the front screw.
While the ejetor rod coming loose, IS a well known problem, I have my doubts in this case. He reports loosening the front screw frees up the crane, something that would NOT help, if the ejector rod was loose.
ol timer
Member
Before you file, try reversing, or swapping the two screws around the trigger guard. You may get lucky.
If you need to file, be sure to chase the threads on the end of the screw before reinstalling to reduce the risk of cross threading or stripping the frame.
Good luck,
OT
If you need to file, be sure to chase the threads on the end of the screw before reinstalling to reduce the risk of cross threading or stripping the frame.
Good luck,
OT
Ol Timer offers good suggestion. When an unknowable person removes all three plate screws and mixes them up the fitted screw may have been used in the center hole. Remove them and measure or try swapping them around.
