Cylinder release doesn't feel right

[Rio Laxas]

The cylinder release on one of my revolvers feels kind of mushy. I tightened the screw that holds it on, but it still isn't right. It seems a little too hard to release the cylinder. Any ideas?

 

[Pisgah]

Have you tightened the ejector rod? Reverse threads, so turn it counterclockwise to tighten.

 

[Rio Laxas]

I just checked it and it is ok. The cylinder release does release the cylinder just fine with no hangups, but when it slides forward it feels like it requires there is too much tension there and it does not move freely and easily as all of my other smiths do. I am speculating that maybe something is causing the part under the thumbpiece that slides forward to hang up.

 

[Dan Cash]

Pull the side plate and make sure the release is not dragging on the bottom of the hammer. I have had 2 M27-2s with the release dragging on the hammer; one drug as the hammer was cocked which spoiled a mint gun, the other was draging on the bottom of the hammer interfering with latching.
Dan

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

If it's clean oiled and the extractor rod is tight, I'd check for extractor rod run out. If all seems OK, I'd check that the yoke is in alignment.

 

[tomcatt51]

You can get the cylinder release rotated a little bit and it will drag, rubbing on the sides of it's slot in the frame. Center it in it's range of movement (rotation) and hold it as you tighten the nut. Any doubts, just take it off and you'll see how it can drag if it's rotated a bit.

 

[DCWilson]

There are some simple diagnostic steps you can take to tell you where the problem is.

Swing the cylinder open. With a punch or small screwdriver, push on the spring-loaded pin that extends from the locking lug under the barrel. If that moves in easily against spring tension, your problem is somewhere else.

Push on the end of the center pin that protrudes from the ejector star on the rear of the cylinder. If you feel drag or resistance, or if the pin seems to move forward a little, hang up, and then suddenly release under continued pressure, your problem is in the way the center pin slides through the cylinder and the ejector rod.

If there is no problem with the center pin, move the thumb release back against its own spring and release it. Move it back and forth and see if there is a position in which it seems to lock or hang up.

My guess is that the problem is going to be gum and grime in the center pin channel, or even a mushroomed tip at the front end of the center pin. Disassemble the cylinder assembly completely, clean everything out, relube, and reassemble. If the end of the center pin is a little peened over, you can smooth it out with a stone.

I buy mostly older guns, and it seems to me that about one out of three needs the cylinder disassembly treatment. They all work more smoothly when they get it.

I do have one gun (a K-38 from 1950) with a sticky bolt, so the center pin is not to blame on this one. I think the solution there is going to involve replacing the bolt. I can't smooth the bolt or its travel channel well enough to make it work the way it should.

 

[Dobbs]

I had the same problem with a 686-2. A little clean-up (stone) on the back of the thumb piece seemed to solve the problem.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

One other thing to check. There are two springs inside the yoke tunnel in the cylinder. One to return the ejector star to closed position, and one to keep tension on the center pin in its reward position, which is what keeps it protruding through th recoil sheild and the cylinder closed at the rear.

They can become either entangled within each other, or one break and bind inside the other. You will need to remove the ejector rod to check them. If you're not sure how to do that, remove the cylinder assembly from the crane, and use a vise with a couple of pieces of wood on either side of the rod, all inside the vice jaws. Place empty cases in the chambers to protect the little star locating pins. Turn the cylinder right to unscrew it from the rod. Make sure you don't lose any of the springs inside the assembly. You can completely disassemble the unit from this point to check the springs.

 

[Milton]

You haven't been using WD-40 on that gun have you ? I bought a 686 years ago from a guy that zealously used WD-40 as a spray down for the gun.When I got it the cylinder release would stick on the first try and then had an odd feeling during use.I ended up taking the cylinder release off of the revolver and scrapping all the build-up in the release recess.Once this was done and the proper light lube was added I have had no problem with the cylinder release.

 

[hastings]

I have a 22-4 Thunder Rance that hung up when I pushed on the cylinder release. As others have said, upon disassembling the cylinder/ejector I found the muzzle end of the center pin was slightly mushroomed. I stoned it down, slightly, and it no longer stuck when the release was pushed. Unfortunately, I then found that the center pin was just a bit to short, causing the locking bolt to not be pushed far enough forward when pushing the cylinder release. The locking bolt would hang up just slightly on the rim of the ejector rod tube. I tried tightening the tube more, but it would not go tighter. I ordered another center pin, and it was worse, so I stoned down the front of the ejector rod tube. I probably could have done it at the threaded end, but I did it at the knurled end. It didn't take much, but it made it function properly and feel perfectly smooth. I don't know if this was the wrong approach, but the 22-4 is my carry gun and I wasn't prepared have to fumble with the thing should I have to reload quickly. I'll order another ejector rod tube and fit it properly when I have the time. I'm the second owner, and unfortunately the original owner didn't mention the problem to me when I bought the gun (on line) from him. It works perfectly, now.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Hastings-
you did the right thing by stoning down the knurled end of the ejector rod. They come oversized when you buy one form someplace (like Brownells) and they require fitting. If you buy it from them, and talk with one of their smith's first, he'll tell you to do that.

I discovered it on my own, but it was nice to know that I did it right. I just chucked the rod in my cordless drill, and laid a piece of 320 grit emory cloth on a flat table surface. Then by using a variable speed drill, I was able to control the amount I took off quite easily. Once I had it fitting properly, I re-chucked it in the drill, and then I put an outside radius to the end like the original one from the factory had by rocking the drill and lightly spinning the end against the emory cloth. It helps to anchor down the cloth with a couple of clamps, so that you can hold the drill with your strong hand, while keeping your off hand braced against the table. Use your off hand to grasp the forward end of the drill making a sort of fulcrum to control the angle, and keep the rod from wanting to "walk" across the paper.

 

[hastings]

Gun-4-Fun

Clever solution. It sounds much quicker than the method I used. I'll have to disassemble the thing again and radius the end the way you mention. Thanks for the helpful hints.

 

[992B]

almostfree,
Recently I had a similar problem with a 27-2 bought new and shot frequently for 36 years, mostly with light loads. After dismantling the cylinder assembly I put one .002 shim where the cylinder rotates on the end of the crane. That took care of the mushy opening of cylinder.
Gary

 

[oromil]

Difficult Cyl Release on 27-2

Pisgah,
Thanks for the reminder on the first thing to check for sticky
cyl. release.
Because it had been some time since the 27-2 had been along
on a range trip,I had forgotten the "easy fix"required to smooth
cyl. release.The bad part of the story is that when I offered it to
a fellow shooter to try, he immediately experienced difficulty checking
the cyl.operation and I was at a loss for answers to right the situation..
Not until That evening as I was browsing the Forum did I remember
at your suggestion, that the remedy can be as simple as a half twist
of the ejector tube..
Thanks for the reminder.....
Regards,
oromil

 

[S&W_aussie]

Very informative thread!

My 27-2 had a cylinder that stuck occasionally...until I read this thread 15 minutes ago! After I read that the cyl. ejector rods come from the factory a little longer than needed

All it took was a gentle stoning of the knurled end of the rod. Now it doesn't bind anymore. I only needed to take it back a couple of thou. I'm sure. Kept checking it as it became easier and easier to release. It works perfectly now.

Thanks for that!