Cylinder Stuck in Model 64-5

Joined
Jul 9, 2025
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Recent purchased a used model 64-5


When I brought it home, I took the side plate off, cleaned it up and put it all back together. When function testing, the cylinder sticks so badly I had to bump it to get it back out of the gun.


I put the cylinder assembly/yoke and cylinder release back in the frame as well as made sure to tighten the ejector rod.


To my dismay, it still sticks. Has anybody had this problem before and if so, how did you solve it?
 
Register to hide this ad
#1. What Toad said.
#2. Check to see if the center pin moves more or less freely without undue pressure needed when the cylinder is open. Pushing on the end with the flat side of a screwdriver blade will tell you.
#3. Check to see if the cylinder pin latch out towards the end of the barrel is reasonably free. Pushing in with a broad tool like a pin punch will give you an idea there. While you are at it check to make sure the center rod isn't short. It has to come out flush with the muzzle end to disengage the front cylinder latch. Sometimes they don't.
#4. Check to see if the thumb latch is pushing the pin all the way out to the face of the recoil shield.
A really good cleaning and careful reassembly with very modest lubrication will deal with most of these issues. It helps if you have a similar weapon available to compare the needed pressure to.
Good luck.
 
I agree with the 2 responses above as well. If the cylinder did not stick before disassembly, than either something was assembled incorrectly or something was done to cause the cylinder sticking. Without the ability to have the revolver in my hands and actually see what is happening, I would only be guessing. If the revolver exhibited this problem before you disassembled it, then there is an issue other than the re-assembly you did.
 
2 things to check.
1) ejector rod has unscrewed just a bit. Try tightening it. They are left hand threads so they tighten "backwards". Wrap the ejector rod with a leather pad or very heavy cloth before gripping with pliers. Do not try to overly tighten. Should be snug only.
2) since you took it apart and back together it's possible you mixed the side plate screws. The front (closest to the barrel) also holds the cylinder assembly in place. If you mixed the screws it's often possible another side plate screw is just a fraction of a tad longer which will bind against the crane. That will cause it to drag when opening and could prevent opening the cylinder.
If the cylinder opened easily before then I'd try #2. Swap the front and rear bottom side plate screws.
 
Sounds like ispcapt might have your answer, your screws might be in the wrong position. The flat head screw goes under the grips, try loosening the crane screw to see if that relieves the tension, if so, try swapping out the two round head screws to see if that resolves your problem.
 
Is the firing pin sticking out? Shine a light behind the rear of the cylinder to check. I recently had that problem on a S&W revolver with a frame mounted firing pin. The firing pin spring was broken and binding against the firing pin, causing the firing pin to protrude from the breechface. This prevented the cylinder from opening.

You could also shine a light behind the front of the cylinder to see if the cylinder is binding against the forcing cone.
 
Back
Top