Did an "idiot" thing at the range- squib load+

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Well, this is really embarrassing, but I guess it just goes to show that no matter how long you've been in the game, you can still make mistakes if both brain cells aren't talking to each other properly.

I recently picked up a 6" Model 19 in decent shape. I had made up some very light target loads with 158 gr. lead bullets at some point (prob.700 fps. max.) and decided to shoot a few of those first, after giving the gun a thorough cleaning and doing an internal polishing job. Firing off the second cylinder-full something didn't feel right and it wasn't- I'd had a squib load and one bullet had got stuck in the barrel but unfortunately it was after firing the second round that I noticed. (Where is the "total idiot" emoticon when you need one?)

I packed up and went home and pondered my dilemma. No barrel bulge or other damage that I could see. I put a lttle Kroil in the barrel and went and made lunch, after which I removed the cylinder and gingerly hammered the slugs out with a brass rod tipped with a turned-down .22 Hornet case that fit the bore. (The gun was clamped in soft jaws in a 6" vise for this, or held firmly by the barrel, with a muzzle bore guide.) No visible damage to the bore.

But... after reassembling the gun, I noticed that the locking stud in the barrel shroud won't snap into the end of the ejector rod. The action works OK, but I have to push firmly against the side of the ejector rod to get it to "mate" with the locking stud.

Now I've heard of the yoke getting bent slightly out of alignment, but I'm wondering in this case if the frame itself might have got bent to the right a tiny amount, since the back-pressure from the second round would have been borne largely by the right side of the frame. I don't have a yoke alignment tool, so I can't check that. It's going to have to go to the 'smith in any case but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them (or will admit to it...) and what the outcome was.
 
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The easiest way to test if the frame was bent is by taking the gun out and shooting it. From that you have described the barrel has to have been "bent" to the right (actually the frame moving the barrel in that direction) and I would expect that as a result the revolver will now shoot left. If it shoots dead on then I think the most reasonable conclusion would be that the Yoke got tweaked in this incident. BTW, IMO a tweaked Yoke is more likely due to the distinct disparity in strength between the frame of your model 19 and the Yoke. Good news is a good gunsmith and straighten a Yoke rather quickly if he has the tools for the job.
 
...From that you have described the barrel has to have been "bent" to the right (actually the frame moving the barrel in that direction) and I would expect that as a result the revolver will now shoot left. ...

I'll load up some light loads and head to the range next week and see where it shoots.

jimmyj, the ejector rod doesn't seem to be unusually loose (similar to my Model 14) and it does appear straight, so I think it may be OK.

"More news at 6" as they say.
 
I had a squib shooting some of my reloaded 38 spl. I heard a pop instead of a bang and I guessed I just had shot a round that I missed loading the powder. I emptied the cylinder and then looked down the barrel. Sure enough there was a bullet about half way down the barrel.
I took a punch and hammer and knocked the bullet back out towards the open cylinder. It came out fairly easy and the barrel didn't even have a scratch in it. It shoots fine and I am glad I knew what a squib would sound like and not shoot it till the barrel was cleared.
I need kick the reloader in his hind end. OOPS That's me.
I hope your gun can be saved.
I bought a revolver that had a ringed barrel by some previous owner. I didn't notice the ringed barrel because the finish was so rough. Looking down the barrel with a light at the other end I can see damage. The gun does shoot alright at least. You might want to shine a light down your barrel and check for a ring gap if you haven't already done that.
 
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Might want to use calipers (micrometer) and go down the outside barrel diameter and check for any bulges.
 
There are gauges that allow you to check for yoke alignment. Most armorers have these gauges. Three things, two of which have been mentioned. 1. Make sure the ejector rod is straight, spin it in the yoke (it is better to do it in the proper fixture, but if you don't have one the yoke gives a good approximation) and look for run out on the end. 2. Ensure the ejector rod is tight and not loose. 3. Check yoke alignment to the frame with a gauge. Those three checks should tell you where the problem lies and all three are correctable if there is an issue.
 
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