You got that for about half price in today's market.
"Did I get an ok deal?"
We've been set up…
The OP knows darned well that he got that revolver at a very good price , just wants to hear it said.
LOL . No really I wasn't sure . Before this the oldest Smith I've ever owned is a model 14 built in the early 70's . I hang out in the 1980+ forum ."Did I get an ok deal?"
We've been set up…
The OP knows darned well that he got that revolver at a very good price , just wants to hear it said.
Makes me think the owner of that shop is computer illiterate or he/she would have easily looked up the value.
LOL . No really I wasn't sure . Before this the oldest Smith I've ever owned is a model 14 built in the early 70's . I hang out in the 1980+ forum .
I just bought this an hour ago at a small gun shop and I'm not real knowledgeable of Smiths of this era. I take it that it's a pre model 10 ?
It's .38 Special and the bore and chambers are shiny and rust free.
Timing is spot on with no push off and the end play is .001.
The frame and cylinder serial numbers match . C 238740 so if I'm reading the book right that's 1953 . No numbers on the grips and no rust anywhere.
The bluing is dang near perfect for an old timer like this so probably not a former LE gun .
I paid $290.00 for it . Good deal or OK deal ?
Thanks in advance.
Also that grip adapter was on it when I bought it .
At least it gave a couple of folks a chance to engage in long-distance psychoanalysis.LOL . No really I wasn't sure . Before this the oldest Smith I've ever owned is a model 14 built in the early 70's . I hang out in the 1980+ forum .
He had less in it and wanted to move it quickly. Good for everybody.
I had one in my hand this weekend in nowhere NEAR that condition and the guy wanted $300 for it. Since the timing was a little off for all six cylinders I let it pass but the price seemed about right for a M&P with a well used patina.
If the timing was off on all six cylinders, that means the part that engages the notches in the cylinder is worn. (The name of that part escapes me at the moment.) I believe that part can be easily replaced, or it can be removed from the gun and peened to make it longer. I have a book by Major George C. Nonte where he describes that operation and it doesn't look too difficult.
Is the gun still available? Maybe you could talk the guy down and get a deal.
You are thinking about the hand and it needs to be wider, not longer.