Do I need to disassemble and clean 39-2 after a few rounds

[bushmaster1313]

Just got this 39-2 from a Forum member
He said he only shot 25 rounds after picking it up used.
I want to shoot a magazine or two. But if I shoot it I will not want to disassemble it for cleaning. After I shoot it I will clean the best I can without disassembly. Do I need to disassemble after shooting for proper cleaning, and if so, how long can I wait.

 

[racoonbeast]

You can shoot it until the gunk is squeezing out of the openings and the gun starts malfunctioning due to the amount of crud that has built up. Powder and primers, with some uncommon exceptions, are no longer corrosive. Probably not what anyone would choose to do, but if they did, the gun would most likely not be permanently damaged.

 

[growr]

I would simply pull the slide off and make sure it is well lubed, run a brush down the barrel and call it good.

This I would do before firing it, after firing it can set untouched for quite some time.


Randy

 

[bigwheelzip]

My cousin's husband fired one box of ammo through a new Colt 1911 in 1973, then put it away without cleaning it. He brought it to us about 5 years ago for an inspection, and a layer of metal was corroded off the feed ramp. Had to reshape it with a Dremel.



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[jbtrucker]

Nice Pistol ! there is You Tube videos on Model 39 disassembly. I clean my 5906 with Hoppes9 and light coat Rem Oil. Also apply small dab of CLP on barrel lug , bushing and rails

 

[s&wchad]

Nice gun!

Do you "NEED" to take it apart after firing a few rounds? No.

When I get a new to me semi-auto, I remove the barrel, slide and stocks at a minimum and give it a proper clean/lube before I shoot it. If I only shoot a few rounds after that, I'll wipe off the outside, run a patch down the bore and brush the breech face.

Your 39-2 is over 40 years old. The previous owner may have only fired 25 rounds, but what about the owners before him? Are the slide/frame rails and moving parts clean and properly lubed? Is there any crud under the stocks?

With the proper screwdrivers, tools and a little care, you won't do any damage taking it down and reassembling it.

 

[gym cat]

NO!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Nevada Ed]

One nice thing about a pistol is that they come apart so easy, unlike a revolver.

Most will be field stripped inside of two minutes
which makes cleaning easy and a breeze, if you have the time.

A few patches in the barrel, slide and mag well, never hurt after a light workout.

Q-tips, tooth brush, bore brush and a lot more patches if I gave it a good work out

or maybe in the "Bath tub" if you are set up big time.

 

[badge107]

Just a light coat of oil with soft cloth. Swab out the barrel with quality oil. Your 39-2 is NICKEL so nothing abrasive or it will show scratches. Whatever you do DO NOT use Hoppes #9. Hoppes will get underneath the nickel and will peel the nickel finish. The nickel finish will bubble and then peel. Good Looking pistol.

 

[Imissedagain]

Not a bad idea to check the barrel to see if a bullet
may be stuck there or one of Hoffa's gold teeth.

Whether new or used it's prudent to field strip, clean and even run some dummies to check function in an autoloader.
We do the same with lever guns etc etc.

Really nice pistol.

My boy and his buddies came home with that new Ruger SR22 long ago.
They asked me to put on a scope.
Almost all the screws were loose.

 

[H Richard]

Since I don't shoot all my guns "frequently", (too many), I usually clean them after any range trip, unless I plan to take the same guns back out in a day or two. Sometimes when I put a gun away it may not get taken out and shot for a couple years.

 

[hyena]

I can't stand to not clean a gun after it's been shot. I can't even let it sit overnight. The only exception is my Ruger 10/22. I live in the country and occasionally have to shoot it once or twice.

 

[stansdds]

I would field strip it and lightly clean and re-lubricate unless you plan to shoot it again next week. You don't want powder residue sitting for prolonged periods of time and potentially absorbing moisture and cause corrosion.


What was previously said about Hoppe's Number 9 penetrating and lifting the nickel does NOT apply to S&W factory nickel finishes. It does apply to some other maker's nickel and some aftermarket nickel finishes where there is a layer of copper between the base metal and the nickel. S&W did not use a copper intermediate layer, they applied nickel directly onto the base metal. Would I apply solvent and just let it sit on any nickle finish? No, but applying it to soften residue, then cleaning it off and applying a thin layer of oil, carnuba wax, Renassaince wax, or Johnson's paste floor wax will certainly not hurt a S&W nickel finish.


Why did I mention wax? Because oil is good, but it is even harder for moisture to get under a waxed surface. It's great protection for blued and nickel finishes.

 

[m&p2.0fdethumbsafety]

i do a quick clean after every range trip, thorough clean every 6 months

 

[MStarmer]

Why don't you want to field strip it? It's a beautiful gun and it's easy to pull the slide off. At the least and oily patch down the bore and a good wipe down anywhere you can get to.

 

[Bozz10mm]

If I shoot one round, I have to field strip, lube and clean my firearms. Or at least run a patch through the bore.

 

[squidsix]

I have attempted to put a gun in the safe after a few rounds. Find myself awake at 2AM cleaning it.

 

[chief38]

When I shoot a gun at the Range I usually shoot at least 100 rounds through it - rarely less unless it is a very old model - then 50 rounds. When I get home the gun gets my standard thorough cleaning.

On my frequently fired guns such as my Colt Gold Cup NM, S&W models 15,18,586, etc. that get shot a lot, I will do a complete tear-down every year or two, completely clean and lightly re-lube.

There was only one gun hat I had never completely stripped and that was my Browning Superposed shot gun from the late 1950's. While Pheasant hunting about 10 years ago we got caught in a major sudden down-pour and the SG got soaked. I was a little apprehensive about tearing that one completely apart because of it's complexity, super tight fit and a collectible gun, but being that water had gotten everywhere, I had no choice. I did the tear-down (very glad I did since it had gotten really soaked) cleaned, re-lubed and re-assembled with no surprises. That was the only time that gun came completely apart but I learned quite a bit about the SG.

I did learn a valuable lesson from that experience....... Whenever I venture into the Field to go Hunting or to shoot Sporting Clays, I now carry a contractor grade 55 gallon black plastic garbage bag in my vest that can be used as a "raincoat" for a long gun. I did use it once while afield and it worked great!

 

[Pisgah]

I know we have people on the forum with all different levels of gun knowledge and experience. But honestly, if the original poster does not know the answer to his own question he should not even be firing a gun without direct, experienced supervision.

Find someone who knows what they're doing and get some instruction before doing anything else with that gun.

 

[glowe]

My cousin's husband fired one box of ammo through a new Colt 1911 in 1973, then put it away without cleaning it. He brought it to us about 5 years ago for an inspection, and a layer of metal was corroded off the feed ramp . . .

This is the very reason why I run every firearm I own wet. While the use of corrosive materials is gone, the residue and burned gun powder is still there. Any burned powder is hydroscopic, meaning it will attract and hold moisture. Whether in the barrel or in the mechanism, your gun can collect moisture from humid conditions and if the metal is not protected, the moisture in contact with steel and rust WILL occur on dry metal.

If firing a few rounds, I still clean the barrel and wipe down the gun. I then use a spray Barricade type material and lightly spray down the mechanism. Barricade VOCs evaporate, leaving a protective layer that seems not to collect debris. Never had a spot of rust or a malfunction running any firearm with oil. It has been widely understood that the long running Remington 1100 problems with malfunctions to the point that many owners sold those guns off. The common opinion was never oil the mechanism, but running dry accumulated way too much powder residue over time and people simply never took them apart to clean. I have owned several 1100s and regularly cleaned and oiled the action without a single malfunction in some 40 years! . . . and not a spec of rust. Don't have to completely disassemble the gun every time you return from the range. Once you have oiled it, it can run well for some time without disassembly.