Double action revolver shooting, anyone heard this?

[petemacmahon]

why wait?

My alignment of the sights starts as soon as the trigger movement starts. The favorites in my stable are the ones that I can't "stage" on that last portion of the trigger movement. When I have a revolver tuned, it better come back with no stage up at the end of the trigger pull!

My 442 has that, and I hate it! My Teddy Jacobson DAO 696 does not, and I love it!

 

[petemacmahon]

I recommend everyone dry fire every other day for a couple of weeks. It really teaches you about triggers.

A K frame (in my opinion) has a much nicer trigger than a Ruger GP (though I really like both guns). The N Frame is the enigma. It was built for the 44 and in 357 there is a lot of leftover metal in that huge cylinder. In fast firing it acts like a flywheel and resists turning, early in the trigger pull. Once the cylinder speeds up and then reaches it's stop point and locks up the trigger pull changes noticeably as it pulls through and releases the hammer. You do not need to stop there but I can understand the temptation. I have read that this inertia is why lawmen demanded a K frame 357 but I never really understood it until I practiced fast dry firing an N frame alongside other revolvers.

Yup, that is why I do not care for N frame 357s and much prefer L & K. My 627-0 Model of 1989 takes it another step in the wrong direction with a non fluted cylinder, hence more mass and more inertia to overcome! Yeah, it looks cool, but it doesn't get much trigger time anymore.

 

[jtcarm]

I'm not Jerry Miculek, but after watching his video and adopting his technique, my DA speed and accuracy are much improved:

Finger 90-degrees to the trigger and only the pad on it, roll straight back keeping the finger oriented the same way, no sliding across the trigger.

Coming straight back is the key to not pulling the sights out of alignment. . That's why Miculek likes the serrated trigger, it provides a reference for positioning the finger. I've come to like them too since learning this method. Even the wide TT on my 17-3.

The other key I've found is training the finger to release the trigger as soon as the sear breaks.

I haven't burned it into the muscles yet and have to keep saying to myself "straight back straight back'. But it's getting there.

Like any shooting, I just keep my eye on the front sight and don't dwell, they're almost never going to be perfectly aligned. Just call where it breaks.

 

[Rick_A]

I only compete against myself, but the trigger ran fast gives the gun a very predictable wobble. As long as the front sight is over the target when it breaks the target gets hit.

The N frame in big bore calibers have a lot less cylinder mass than the smaller bores in a six shooter. The feel is different but I don't find it much more difficult. In the upper end of the competition spectrum the six shooters are dead, anyway. Seems everyone is using a 38/357/9mm in a seven to eight shot nowadays.

 

[Pondoro]

OK, I practiced the technique described in the first post. 12 or 18 shots morning and evening for two weeks. Then I got busy and stopped for a week. Then I went to the range. My single and double action shooting was noticeably improved. Maybe it was just the practice, I do not know.