Duh... Slide locked back without recoil spring

[bassorbass]

Hi, my names Anthony. Embarrassing first post here but here it goes. Got distracted watching breaking bad changed the side of my mag release and hastily reassembled eager to try it. I assembled the pistol without the recoil spring and pushed it back to where the slide is locked. Yes I used the search function. I pretty much gather that I'm gonna have to send it to s&w. is that right? The slide is not budging.

Thanks
Anthony

 

[modraker]

This is an M&P, right? I assume you are pulling the trigger while attempting to remove the slide in case the sear disengage lever is up. Be sure that the take down lever is in the rotated down position.

If the slide is still stuck, you must remove the striker assembly. Turn the gun over so that the bottom of the slide is exposed. Then using a small screwdriver, push in on the white plastic sleeve under the "hook" of the striker. You can then remove the black plastic cover at the end of the slide. Pull the striker assembly out of the slide while pushing down on the round striker block. The slide should be free.

If you want to view a video, go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6nebJaORy0. It is for something else so don't go beyond the striker assembly removal.

 

[Rastoff]

WAIT!!! Before you try to disassemble the gun, what position is the take down lever in? Post a pic if you can.

 

[bassorbass]

This is an M&P, right? I assume you are pulling the trigger while attempting to remove the slide. Be sure that the take down lever is in the correct position. Also, make sure the sear disengage lever is up.

If the slide is still stuck, you must remove the striker assembly. Turn the gun over so that the bottom of the slide is exposed. Then using a small screwdriver, push in on the white plastic sleeve under the "hook" of the striker. You can then remove the black plastic cover at the end of the slide. Pull the striker assembly out of the slide while pushing down on the round striker block. The slide should be free.

If you want to view a video, go to Comp Striker Spring Install.wmv - YouTube. It is for something else so don't go beyond the striker assembly removal.

I do have an m&p. I was able to remove the striker assembly. But the slide is still stuck i can't tell if its the barrel or another part getting hung up. I appreciate the advice though, and now i know how to remover the striker assembly.

 

[bassorbass]

WAIT!!! Before you try to disassemble the gun, what position is the take down lever in? Post a pic if you can.

The take down lever is down. I think its the barrel which is stuck. Ugh, i feel so dumb. Sorry wouldn't let me rotate.

 

[Jyezahn]

Do you have any roll pin punches? You can punch out the locking block pin and the sear block pin and pull the slide away from the frame, which will allow you to disassemble. Then just reinsert the blocks and pins and you're good to go.

 

[bassorbass]

Do you have any roll pin punches? You can punch out the locking block pin and the sear block pin and pull the slide away from the frame, which will allow you to disassemble. Then just reinsert the blocks and pins and you're good to go.

I don't but I'd be willing to buy some to try this out. Is that the small hole by the beaver tail?

 

[Jyezahn]

Yes, the small pin by the rear and the other small one by the takedown lever. I don't recall if the trigger pin must be removed as well, but it's the big pin above the trigger. You can buy a set of roll pin punches for about $8 at Harbor Freight if you're looking for low cost. Once you get the pins out, you may have to slip the punch (from the rear)between the frame and slide and pry a bit to loosen the block enough to pull it out.

Watch this video and keep it handy to help you reassemble the parts in the frame.

AEK Install Video

 

[bassorbass]

Yes, the small pin by the rear and the other small one by the takedown lever. I don't recall if the trigger pin must be removed as well, but it's the big pin above the trigger. You can buy a set of roll pin punches for about $8 at Harbor Freight if you're looking for low cost. Once you get the pins out, you may have to slip the punch (from the rear)between the frame and slide and pry a bit to loosen the block enough to pull it out.

Watch this video and keep it handy to help you reassemble the parts in the frame.

AEK Install Video

Ya I was already thinking harbor freight, well looks like I have a project to do today. Thanks.

 

[RB211]

All 3 have to go for the locking block - Takedown lever, roll pin and trigger pin.

 

[Rastoff]

The take down lever is down. I think its the barrel which is stuck. Ugh, i feel so dumb. Sorry wouldn't let me rotate.

Rotation isn't an issue. We need to see the other side.

I don't think it will stick there if caught on the striker.

 

[pharmer]

It should unlock by pushing back on the muzzle since it is a Browning type system. I assume it is unloaded! Joe

 

[bassorbass]

Rotation isn't an issue. We need to see the other side.

I don't think it will stick there if caught on the striker.

Ok well the takedown lever is all the way down. It doesn't move either.

Yes the gun is unloaded.

 

[modraker]

After getting back from the range today, I thought I'd simulate your problem on my own M&P before I clean it. Based on how far out your barrel sticks, I think the barrel's feed ramp may be wedged under the frame's locking block. Can you check it with a light? If true, you may be able to dislodge it by pulling on the barrel and pushing the slide forward at the same time. Both motions would be in the same direction and towards the business end of the gun.

 

[SmurfHunter]

After getting back from the range today, I thought I'd simulate your problem on my own M&P before I clean it. Based on how far out your barrel sticks, I think the barrel's feed ramp may be wedged under the frame's locking block. Can you check it with a light? If true, you may be able to dislodge it by pulling on the barrel and pushing the slide forward at the same time. Both motions would be in the same direction and towards the business end of the gun.

I agree. I think this is the issue

 

[bassorbass]

Yes, the small pin by the rear and the other small one by the takedown lever. I don't recall if the trigger pin must be removed as well, but it's the big pin above the trigger. You can buy a set of roll pin punches for about $8 at Harbor Freight if you're looking for low cost. Once you get the pins out, you may have to slip the punch (from the rear)between the frame and slide and pry a bit to loosen the block enough to pull it out.

Watch this video and keep it handy to help you reassemble the parts in the frame.

AEK Install Video

Thanks for the help everyone, I finally decided to go for it this morning. In order to dislodge the barrel I had to remove both pins and the striker assembly. Once I did this I had to push backwards on the barrel and forward on the slide allowing me to free it. I appreciate all of your replies. Now I must take her to the range

 

[modraker]

Congratulations. I am glad that you didn't have to send it to S&W. Happy Shooting!

 

[Rastoff]

Thanks for the help everyone, I finally decided to go for it this morning. In order to dislodge the barrel I had to remove both pins and the striker assembly. Once I did this I had to push backwards on the barrel and forward on the slide allowing me to free it. I appreciate all of your replies. Now I must take her to the range

I'm glad you got it fixed, but did you figure out what it was hanging up on?

 

[Jyezahn]

I'm glad you got it fixed, but did you figure out what it was hanging up on?

I simulated this with my 40c, and found that the barrel locking lug, if not supported by the recoil spring assembly, would drop all the way down into the locking block (this does not happen with the recoil assembly installed). This effectively prevented the slide from being able to move forward, as well as prevented the barrel from moving back up out of the locking block. A perfect wedge, if you will. Removing the pins allows the blocks to move enough for the barrel and slide to recover.

 

[bassorbass]

I simulated this with my 40c, and found that the barrel locking lug, if not supported by the recoil spring assembly, would drop all the way down into the locking block (this does not happen with the recoil assembly installed). This effectively prevented the slide from being able to move forward, as well as prevented the barrel from moving back up out of the locking block. A perfect wedge, if you will. Removing the pins allows the blocks to move enough for the barrel and slide to recover.

Correct. Took me a bit of courage to start taking those pins out haha.