Endshake on Model 19-3

[Douglas Willetts]

I have a Model 19-3. The cylinder won’t rotate when I pull the trigger or cock the hammer. The barrel-cylinder gap is about .007", and closing the cylinder takes excessive force. The extractor rod is straight, and I’ve cleaned under the extractor star and its contact points. I’m considering removing a bit of material where the cylinder contacts the yoke. Is this a good idea?

Also, I don’t understand why this issue suddenly started after years of no problems.

 

[S&W revolverman]

Don't take material off where you suggested.

Check to see if the ejector rod is tight and hasn't backed out a little.

 

[daveboy]

DO NOT REMOVE ANY METAL! Like S&W Revolverman mentioned, most likely your ejector rod has unscrewed itself a tad.

 

[steelslaver]

Clean inside the cylinder where it rides on yoke, clean the yoke, make sure your gas ring is still fully seated, make sure it is very clean between star and cylinder. Make sure the lug tooth in shroud under barrel is moving free and not stuck or sticky. Make sure the center pin is straight and clean and the springs in good shape.

Nothing grew. Don't trim anything

 

[Vtgw938]

Always good to set it down and walk away from it when these things happen. Usually a strip down, cleaning and re-assembly takes care of it if you have the know how.

 

[Douglas Willetts]

Ejector rod is tight & straight. I have cleaned everything for the 3rd time and it is still not closing correctly. Steelslaver said something about a gas ring. Looked on a parts drawing and see what it is but I do not seem to have one on my revolver. I have all that parts that are in Vtjw938's second picture (see my first picture). I think I know what he means by lug tooth, the spring loaded part that holds the ejector rod when closed. The cylinder starts to resist before it gets that far (see second and third pictures). Still at a loss.

 

[ezb57]

Does the crane close ok with the cylinder off?

 

[Shotguncoach]

You mentioned that the cylinder won’t rotate when you pull the trigger or cock the hammer…..are you able to do those things with the cylinder closed, or is the action locked up?

 

[Shotguncoach]

In the first picture of your last post the ejector spring looks a bit wonky in the part nearest the cylinder…not sure if that’s just the camera angle or not.

Ezb57 is going the same way I would….start putting it back together a little at a time. Just the yoke first, then the yoke with the bare cylinder, then yoke/cylinder/ejector star, etc etc until you put in the piece that makes it stop.

Still curious about whether or not the hammer/trigger will cycle without turning the cylinder. That would indicate something broke inside.

 

[Douglas Willetts]

It works perfect without the cylinder in. I will try the one thing at a time method and get back to you. Thanks

 

[Douglas Willetts]

Works with just the yoke, works when I put the cylinder on the yoke but it gets hung up when I put the extractor star in the cylinder. What could this be?

 

[Shotguncoach]

In post 21 of this thread Removal of broken extractor rod Mike Priwer discusses how to remove the center portion of the extractor star. That gun is older than yours and appears to have a different design. I do not know if the center portion of the newer style stars can come loose or not….i need some help there from other members. That’s the only thing I can think of that could “grow” in a gun that used to work. Other than the obvious “dirt under the extractor” or a bent alignment pin that wouldn’t let the star seat fully.

 

[Shotguncoach]

I took my 19-2 apart to get some measurements just so we can verify that nothing has gotten bigger. I know the individual pieces won't grow....I'm talking about "assemblies" that no longer fit together properly and therefore increase in overall assembled length.

The extractor by itself measures 1.612", the assembled extractor/gas ring/ejector rod assembly measures 3.909".

When you assemble the extractor/gas ring/ejector rod, does it go together without any gaps?



And what happens when you GENTLY put that assembly into the yoke and then into the frame? Don't force anything please. On my gun, the assembly snapped into place very easily and would rotate with just a slight amount of drag from the spring pressure of the front locking lug. In the picture below the yoke isn't quite closed because I didn't want to have to use a screwdriver tip to release the front locking lug a second time.






....and just to make sure: You have checked to make sure that the forcing cone hasn't cracked and is dragging on the cylinder, right?