Extractor Pin Replacement

[Drem]

I sent my 15-3 in to S&W to be reblued. On the Sales Quote they included, replace extractor pins. When I got it back I was hoping there would be some sort of explanation as to why they replaced them. Not one mention of why on the Repair Order.

Any ideas why they would replace them?

 

[John in Yuma]

A guess. Bluing chemicals cause corrosion under controlled conditions to form a protective (blue) surface. If those same chemicals were left behind under a pressed in pin, they would continue to cause corrosion under uncontrolled conditions (rust). So, remove pins, blue gun, flush out chemicals, replace pins.
Just a guess.

 

[stansdds]

A guess. Bluing chemicals cause corrosion under controlled conditions to form a protective (blue) surface. If those same chemicals were left behind under a pressed in pin, they would continue to cause corrosion under uncontrolled conditions (rust). So, remove pins, blue gun, flush out chemicals, replace pins.
Just a guess.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is correct.

 

[steelslaver]

I have never removed the pins when bluing. Besides the cylinder pins, there are the front sight and ramp pins which on newer guns are polished flush, plus the pressed in hammer and trigger studs, the barrel lug pin, stock pin, cylinder stop pin, rebound slide spring pin and the pressed in frame lug that prevents the cylinder from moving back when open. On rimfires there is also the firing pin pin. What I do do is boil everything in a mild neutralizing solution for a while after removing from blue tank. then boil pure water, the let everything sit in a bucket of Ed's Red for a day or so.

Obviously S&W does not remove many of these pins and parts as there is no way to polish them flush, then remove and reinstall after blueing. Why just the cylinder pins???? Maybe because they are held in place by some sort of Loctite and the heat of the blue solution breaks it down, but none of the cylinders I have done have had the pins come out.

Normal blue salts boil work best at about 285-290f when mixed correctly. Nitreblue salts at around 600-650f

 

[Drem]

A guess. Bluing chemicals cause corrosion under controlled conditions to form a protective (blue) surface. If those same chemicals were left behind under a pressed in pin, they would continue to cause corrosion under uncontrolled conditions (rust). So, remove pins, blue gun, flush out chemicals, replace pins.
Just a guess.

That sounds plausible. I was just curious if there might be some wear and tear issue with those pins that I should keep an eye on in the future. Even though I will probably never put the amount of rounds through it as I did years ago. I no longer reload and do not use it competitively any more.

Thanks