Extractor rod sticking on detent

[dbooksta]

I have an old 629-1 and when I open the cylinder the extractor rod sticks on the front retaining pin significantly more than any of my other S&W revolvers. I can see that the inner rod is in fact being pushed forward by the lever, but it doesn't go completely flush with the end of the extractor rod (or "tube" I guess we should call it). However, none of my other revolvers seem to go completely flush on opening the cylinder.

What is the proper way to address this stickiness?

 

[dbooksta]

I have an old 629-1 and when I open the cylinder the extractor rod sticks on the front retaining pin significantly more than any of my other S&W revolvers. I can see that the inner rod is in fact being pushed forward by the lever, but it doesn't go completely flush with the end of the extractor rod (or "tube" I guess we should call it). However, none of my other revolvers seem to go completely flush on opening the cylinder.

What is the proper way to address this stickiness?

 

[john traveler]

I've encountered a few extractor rod center pins as you described. It is caused by the extractor end of the pin rubbing against the frame and wearing down.

The proper fix is to replace and re-fit the extractor center pin.

The expedient fix is to CAREFULLY file a few thousandths off the forward lug end of the extractor rod. Just a few strokes with a mill file will do it.

 

[Gazz]

Before you touch a file to the part make sure the the extractor pin is screwed all the way in. It has a left hand thread and you may need an armorers tool or the service of a smith to do it properly.

 

[dbooksta]

I tried holding the extractor rod and twisting the pin inside it (from the cylinder end, where it protrudes), but all it does is spin; no threads are engaging. What tool or technique do I need to screw or replace the extractor center pin?

Thanks.

 

[john traveler]

I ust a Jacobs chuck to hold that extractor rod, and use empty cartridge cases in the chambers to relieve the torque stress on the extractor pins. You can use a 1/4" electric drill chuck (WITHOUT power, of course!) to hold the extractor rod.

Remember that older S&W revolvers pre-1957 or so will have right-hand threaded extractor rods, and the post-1957-to present production will have left-hand threads.

 

[USBP SW]

The pin that you tried to unscrew is not what they are refering to, the ejector rod itself (the piece with the knurling at the end) is what should be checked for tightness or unscrewed to disassemble it. Although, once you ensure that the rod is tight, you can file the rod slightly until it is flush with the pin, that should solve your problem.

Good luck,
Steve

 

[2152hq]

Probably the ejector rod backed out as already stated (L/H thread) if the gun functioned OK in the past.

A couple of other small things to check:

With the cylinder swung open, depress the small spring loaded locking pin (the one that is hanging up causing the problem) and make sure it can be depressed all the way flush into the hole in the barrel lug. Once in a great while the spring kinks or dirt/dried oil gets in there and it limits it's rearward travel.

Also look at the same pin itself carefully. The left side of it where the ejector rod closed upon it is obviously chamfered/tapered to move it back during the closing motion,,then it snaps forward to lock. The overall body taper of the pin assists in keeping things tight.
However,,the right side also has (should have!)a very small, very slight chamfer to the forward edge of the pin to assist in getting it passed the ejector rod when the center pin is not quite pushing to the end of the ejector rod.
It's only function is to cam the locking pin back out of the way that last little bit that the center pin either refuses to do or in the case of extremely fast operation will make the function go smoother.