Extractor Star Alignment pin

[Retired W4]

Great thread on ejector rod removal. This is about a 1905, 4th, one of the last (#673xxx) before WW II broke out. It has the single pin in the rear of the cylinder to align the extractor star. It's missing on this one. I haven't checked Jerry K's book yet but I was wondering what to do about it. I don't know how it is held in the hole and I've never seen one not there.

 

[armorer951]

It is a pressure fit in the hole. The pins are approx .055" in diameter and .210" long. Not necessary for proper function.

You can easily make one using a cut off from a drill stem. The #54 drill works great.

I can send you some if you don't want to make one.

Here's some addn info from this forum.....

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/668609-cylinder-pin.html?highlight=extractor+alignment

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...nment-pins.html?highlight=extractor+alignment


Carter

 

[chief38]

And..... if you do make one out of a drill bit, it's best to cut it a little longer and then use a Dremel to sneak up on the proper length. Slightly dome over the top so it doesn't catch anything. Very easy job. Good thing it fell out and didn't break off inside the hole!

If for some reason the hole is too large for a tight fit, use the next larger drill bit or some locktite. Test with an actual drill (bottom part) bit prior to cutting it.

 

[Matt_X]

So would it be OK to slot a replacement extractor so it fit onto an existing cylinder?


I ask because I bought a replacement whose alignment hole does not match with the original pin position. I've been assuming the extractor's hole would need to be filled first, then the new hole bored.


Victory ratchet pin alignment?

 

[armorer951]

Sure, you can spot a new hole for a replacement pin in a new extractor. (not cut a "slot") Seems somewhat redundant though, since the alignment pins are not required for proper function.

It would be better to fit the new extractor first in my opinion, if it needs fitting to the gun. Be sure to hold the extractor in alignment with some empty casings while you are checking timing etc. while fitting.

Whether or not a new alignment pin is required or not really depends on the gauge between the existing extractor cavity and the new replacement's stem. If it is adequately tight, I doubt you will actually need one.

Carter

 

[Matt_X]

Are you suggesting that the existing alignment pin be removed?

 

[armorer951]

I thought the pins in the cylinder didn't line up with the holes in the "new" extractor you sourced. Sorry. I apparently misunderstood.

Not terribly strange since I'm an old man.

 

[Matt_X]

I thought the pins in the cylinder didn't line up with the holes in the "new" extractor you sourced. Sorry. I apparently misunderstood.

Not terribly strange since I'm an old man.

Actually you understood correctly. I may be the one that is misunderstanding.

The alignment hole in the extractor's ratchet is about a half diameter off from the pin in the cylinder.
So when I tried to put the new extractor into the cylinder the alignment pin prevents the extractor from seating.

Does that make sense?

 

[chief38]

If I understand your dilemma correctly, it would be much easier to spot a new hole for the pin in the cylinder rather than to slot the extractor, even if you do have a milling machine.

A new hole could also be drilled into the "star".

 

[Retired W4]

Thank you very much for the offer, Carter. I noticed that without cartridges in the cylinder there was just a tiny bit of radial play of the star. But with even just one round in a charging hole there is no play. I'm going to let this sleeping dog sleep.

 

[DWalt]

The only time that I fitted a replacement extractor star, the hole in the replacement star was positioned a fair distance from the pin, maybe a few mms. I removed the old pin in the cylinder and match-drilled a new hole in the cylinder for a replacement pin. Not much of a job as I remember, but that was over 20 years ago. I made a pin but don’t remember how I did it