Final result of quest to "restore" nickel plated parts.

[Art Doc]

I promised that I would post this so here it is.

A couple months ago I brought up the subject of restoring hammers and triggers that had been nickel plated. Several names of smiths were offered but the prices charged could not be justified on "shooter grade" guns. I kept looking because I disliked the look of the plated hammers and triggers and the longer I looked at them the more I hated them.

I finally asked my long-standing gunsmith about this situation. I hadn't approached him previously because I was thinking that such work would require a specialty shop. But he said he could remove the nickel and recreate the original case-hardened look. I decided to see what he could do and delivered three hammers and three triggers to him.

A forum member had warned me that there was likely a reason why these parts had been plated in the first place, such as being damaged by corrosion. This proved to be the case with my guns. All of the hammers and triggers were indeed marred by old corrosion and this affected the final result with evidence of the corrosion being visible. But I still prefer the new look over the plating.

My opinion is that if one has a very nice gun and wants to restore the hammer and trigger to new condition then the service offered by this smith would be unsatisfying. For someone with a shooter grade gun who wants the hammer and trigger to have more of an original appearance, accepting the fact that the parts will not look like new, then this may be a viable option. To me the restored parts look Ok. Not great, but OK for a shooter grade gun. I like them much better now than when they were plated but I realize that they don't look 100% factory original or like new. The price charged was more than reasonable. The price is $25 per part which is a pittance compared to other quotes I received but please recall that the appearance of the final product is not perfect and would not be suitable for a collector grade piece.

Here are some pics of two hammers and a trigger that were "restored" for me. The top photo is a 1926 hammer. Middle is the same gun's trigger. Bottom is a pre-war HD "humpback" hammer after stripping and faux case-hardening. The quality of the photos is not good.

The gunsmith is Bob Gilman, a partner in William B. Mayfield guns of Fresno, CA.

Here is some info:

http://www.gunshopfinder.com/bytownresults.asp?ID=4208

http://www.williambmayfieldguns.com/index.php


Numbers:
(800) 354-4867
(559) 221-9415

Location:
4281 N. First Street
Fresno, CA 93726

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-4:00
Currently closed Thursdays

 

[Art Doc]

I promised that I would post this so here it is.

A couple months ago I brought up the subject of restoring hammers and triggers that had been nickel plated. Several names of smiths were offered but the prices charged could not be justified on "shooter grade" guns. I kept looking because I disliked the look of the plated hammers and triggers and the longer I looked at them the more I hated them.

I finally asked my long-standing gunsmith about this situation. I hadn't approached him previously because I was thinking that such work would require a specialty shop. But he said he could remove the nickel and recreate the original case-hardened look. I decided to see what he could do and delivered three hammers and three triggers to him.

A forum member had warned me that there was likely a reason why these parts had been plated in the first place, such as being damaged by corrosion. This proved to be the case with my guns. All of the hammers and triggers were indeed marred by old corrosion and this affected the final result with evidence of the corrosion being visible. But I still prefer the new look over the plating.

My opinion is that if one has a very nice gun and wants to restore the hammer and trigger to new condition then the service offered by this smith would be unsatisfying. For someone with a shooter grade gun who wants the hammer and trigger to have more of an original appearance, accepting the fact that the parts will not look like new, then this may be a viable option. To me the restored parts look Ok. Not great, but OK for a shooter grade gun. I like them much better now than when they were plated but I realize that they don't look 100% factory original or like new. The price charged was more than reasonable. The price is $25 per part which is a pittance compared to other quotes I received but please recall that the appearance of the final product is not perfect and would not be suitable for a collector grade piece.

Here are some pics of two hammers and a trigger that were "restored" for me. The top photo is a 1926 hammer. Middle is the same gun's trigger. Bottom is a pre-war HD "humpback" hammer after stripping and faux case-hardening. The quality of the photos is not good.

The gunsmith is Bob Gilman, a partner in William B. Mayfield guns of Fresno, CA.

Here is some info:

http://www.gunshopfinder.com/bytownresults.asp?ID=4208

http://www.williambmayfieldguns.com/index.php


Numbers:
(800) 354-4867
(559) 221-9415

Location:
4281 N. First Street
Fresno, CA 93726

Hours:
Monday-Friday: 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-4:00
Currently closed Thursdays

 

[Onomea]

Glad it worked out for you, Sax. Interesting post. Thanks!

 

[Deacon KC]

They look pretty good from here. Glad you're back!

 

[j38]

S.P., That IS an improvement - and, at $25 - an affordable one. Regards, Jerry

 

[bettis1]

Pig,

I think they are an improvememt, also. The finish is not bad at all. It has that "mousy" appearance that is quite common on older case colored pieces and looks appropriate for the guns.

I know those have been eating your gut for a long time. Now you can move on to other stressors

.

Bob

 

[opoefc]

Pig, I think you got the results you were probably seeking, looks OK for those two guns. What process did the gunsmith use to remove the nickel plating? Reverse electrolysis, buffing, or? Did you consider buying used or NOS case hardened parts from dealers, or the internet sellers? In my experience these can be had for very little more than $25 ea. and often less. Ed.

 

[MKT]

They look nice, like the hammer and trigger on a well used old gun. Very fitting.

For the chrimed trigger and hammer on the pre-victory I picked up a while back, I opted to buy NOS pieces from one of the vendors on GB. Got the pair for about $30, maybe $35 with shipping. I'll try to shoot a picture or two soon.

 

[Art Doc]

MKT- I shopped for replacement parts but pre-war N frame hammers and triggers are a lot tougher to find than K frame parts. I located one hammer and the seller wanted $150.

bettis1 & opoefc- Why are you calling me Pig? Do you mean to insult me? I would appreciate it if you would use my proper username or the intials SP.

 

[bettis1]

Originally posted by bettis1:
Pig,

I think they are an improvememt, also. The finish is not bad at all. It has that "mousy" appearance that is quite common on older case colored pieces and looks appropriate for the guns.

I know those have been eating your gut for a long time. Now you can move on to other stressors

.

Bob

Mister SaxonPig,

No insult intended. I'm proud of my last name and use it in my user name and assumed you did also.

(Glad to see you took my suggestion about finding other things to stress about)

Bob

 

[gizamo]

Originally posted by bettis1:

(Glad to see you took my suggestion about finding other things to stress about)

Bob

Heeeeee's Baaaaaack......

Giz

 

[MKT]

SP,

Agreed, mine were K frame parts and not suitable for your guns. I didn't realize that pre-war N frame innerds were more difficult to find. I will try to keep my eye out in case I see any (and can afford them) to sock away for future needs.

 

[Muley Gil]

I have noticed a tendancy for folks here on the Forum to abbreviate user names. I've done it myself at times.

Often when I have replies to my posts, folks will address me as "Muley". It bothers me not a whit. I considered that when I chose my user name.

Of course, I'm not very thinskinned.

 

[Art Doc]

To me, SaxonPig is cute and different. A former GF bestowed it on me 25+ years ago and I still use it.

Saxon is an acceptable abbreviation (and why is that such a long word?).

So is SP.

But "Pig" is a little insulting (intended or not). Generally speaking calling someone a pig is not a term of endearment.

This is why I hardly post any longer. Every post either becomes a discussion about me rather than the topic or an opportunity for some to take cheap shots at me (or both). I promised that I would post the results of the smith's work and I have. Can we please keep any commentary focused on the topic and not me?

 

[bettis1]

SaxonPig,

I apologize that my post offended you. It was certainly not meant to do so.

As I said in my initial post, I think that the results that you achieved are an improvement and are very appropriate for the guns. I guessed that the plated parts had been a continuing source of irritation to you since you have mentioned them several times. My comment about "moving on to other stressors" was made in jest since you have apparently solved the "stress" of the nickel plated parts. I included the "smilie face" in an attempt to convey that the comment was in fun.

Most folks who know me realize that, even though my humor may at times be a little "edgy", I do my best not to offend, insult, or demean anyone. If I crossed the line with you, please accept my apology.

Bob

 

[Chef]

SP, Thanks for the interesting post. I am considering having a hammer and trigger restored for my 1917. Would you mind sharing the quotes you got for total restoration and if so what kind of price range? I have exchanged email with George Roghaar who has said he could reharden and color the parts with a batch he is doing soon. I have read good commentary on his work from others on this forum. His prices seemed reasonable and I was impressed with his timely responses to my queries. Regards, Chef

 

[H Richard]

SP, we appreciate your posts and your knowledge. Also your fine pictures of great old S&W's. I believe most of the other "Posters" like to just have fun and should be considered that way. Don't be offended.

Looking forward to more of your posts.

 

[Onomea]

This post is about Bettis1:

A former GF bestowed it on me 25+ years ago and I still use it.

My theory is that the former GF was better looking than our pal Bob and hence got away with it.

I haven't noticed the edgy humor, but I have noticed your good manners, Bob, as evidenced again in this thread. You are a true gentleman. (Even if aurally unbalanced...)

 

[Art Doc]

bettis1- Accepted. The problem with constantly being barbed is that you can't tell jibes from serious insults. I generally get the latter.

Chef- Gilman does complete refinishing but you'll have to ask him about pricing. I have no idea.

 

[Allen-frame]

SP and all, on the subject of hammers and triggers. Some of my revolvers, especially the older ones have some surface rust on them.
Generally no pitting just surface rust.
I know better than to try and remove it so I just keep it lightly oiled and do nothing .
Any suggestions for removing surface rust without removing case color hardening?


B.t.w. I never realized Fresno was directly over the center of the earth.

Regards ,,Al