fingerprints on nickel finish guns

[jeffrey]

I understand that fingerprints can mess up the finish on blued guns and I am careful to wipe them down after handling them. Do I need to go through this same drill with nickel finish guns? Is a S&W nickel finish more resistant to whatever attacks a blued finish?

And while I'm asking, how resistant is a nickel finish to holster wear? I assume that it's not as resistant as stainless, but where does it fall in the spectrum between blued and stainless?

Thanks for some enlightenment. My three nickel finish Smiths thank you as well!

 

[texagun]

I've never had a problem with fingerprints "etching" into a nickel plated gun like they can do on a blued gun. I just wipe any fingerprints off with a soft cloth. I've started using Renaissance Wax on my nickel guns at the recommendation of several members on this forum and it keeps them in very nice shape. I've never experienced holster wear on a nickel gun either but certainly have on blued guns, so I suppose nickel is a bit more resistant than bluing in regard to holster wear. I'm betting that you will get a lot of opinions on these questions and I'm looking forward to reading them.

 

[29aholic]

Holsters will eventually have the same affect on nickel as they will on blue it just takes a LOT longer time to wear through although you will notice some scuffing at some point. The use of lined holsters or (gasp) nylon ones will prolong the issue for a lot longer than cheap unlined leather.

Some peoples prints are more acidic than others, but as a previous poster has replied, a couple of coats of a good wax will prevent it from becoming a problem.

 

[jeffrey]

For some reason that I don't remember, I thought that Renaissance Wax was for guns that you keep in the safe and don't shoot and that a bit of gun oil is what you use for guns that you shoot.

Is there any problem with shooting your waxed gun, cleaning it (in my case with Hoppe's 9), and then waxing it again? (Apart from the cost of Renaissance Wax!)

I have read that some people believe that solvents such as Hoppe's are bad for nickel plated guns and that others believe that it's OK to use so long as the gun doesn't soak in it. I have not had a problem when I have rubbed it in to remove fouling and then immediately rubbed it off with a clean cloth.

 

[tbury]

If you re-wax after cleaning ren' wax can be used either for shooting guns or safe queens. It is also beneficial for wood grips.

As far as Hoppes and nickel guns, it has been stated here that S&W has never used copper plating under its nickel finish so Hoppes should not attack it. However, I would still wipe any gun dry and then treat it with a protectant. Nickel finish will turn cloudy with prolonged use. I do not know if it is wear or sweat that causes this but I see it on older guns especially on the backstrap. This makes me think it is a combination of both.

 

[au2183]

I am a recent convert to Renaissance Wax and I see a huge difference in the shine on them. It seems to hold up well too. I am in the process of waxing all my guns with it. I can now see my reflection in the ones with bright bluing, where before I saw rainbow swirls of oil, and fingerprint marks. I use it on both wood and steel, but still use Howard's Feed 'N' Wax on the stocks if they seem dry. Howard's will help to clean and feed the wood the correct moisture to make it seems more alive. Then I still cover it with Renaissance Wax to protect it.

 

[29aholic]

Actually I think the wax makes clean up after shooting a little easier.

 

[kennyb]

i too am a recent user of the renaissance wax...and i am amazed...really makes the guns look better (including grips) and forms a clear hard protective coat...

 

[SAA]

I tried everything for years, but stopped when I found "Gibbs" brand lubricant. It's safe and extremely protective on any and every type metal and finish, including nickel, & wood too. It will also displace water and fantastic lube for any semi-auto. Some elite U.S. military units use it. Pricey, at around $16.00 for a large aerosol can, but a little goes a long way.

 

[buckeyeshooter1]

I wipe down and clean my nickel guns with breakfree clp. I do not use hoppes on them just to be extra safe. a rag with breakfree clp will remove fingerprints.

 

[jeffrey]

Thinking about Renaissance Wax, am I correct in my assumption that it doesn't make sense to wipe a gun down with a silicone cloth after using the wax? That the wax will deal with fingerprints and such and that all the cloth would do would remove wax?

Or for that matter to wipe a gun down with a silicone cloth after coating the gun with a thin coat of gun oil, for the same reason?

 

[S&W19506070]

Ren wax is all you need, amazing product

 

[hm427donzi]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/109817-fingerprints-nickel-finis

I have never found ren wax for sale at a local store, and have also looked at several gun shows. Where do you guys buy it?

 

[markeb]

I bought the larger can a couple of years ago at a local Woodcraft store. Also, I have seen it for sale on Amazon. Great stuff.

 

[H Richard]

Amazon, Midway, Brownells, most wood working outlets.

 

[mojave30cal]

I bought some of those white soft cotton inspection gloves off
of Ebay a while back. I put them on when I handle my guns.
Keeps the fingerprints off of them.

 

[S&W19506070]

I have a 681 stainless in excellent condition but for an etched fingerprint, which I have reduced with Flitz. The more I polish, the more the rest of the gun looks dull by comparison, any thoughts on the best fix for this stainless gun? Keep polishing and do the rest of the gun? I top off the repair with Ren Wax, great product.