finish on 5906

[mr rich]

I picked up a 5906 that was in great shape but on the way home the slide rubbed against a flashlight an made a small shiny spot and I would like to get it back to the original finish.
Can you do that with a scotch brite pad or bead blast.
rich

 

[skjos]

Scotch brite will blend the shiny spot into the slide, but it will lighten the finish. The original finish can be restored with bead blasting, but the correct media needs to be used. Here is what I found to work:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...7421-glass-bead-media-testing-5906-frame.html

 

[Geno44]

Depending on how small and how obvious, I would be tempted to leave it alone. If it picked up this problem on the way home, how likely is it that you will get another blemish sometime soon? I wouldn't even think about bead blasting it for what you describe.

 

[mr rich]

skjos had just finished reading your write up on the frame. Looks like I will bead blast the slide. This firearm is like new except for a electric pencil marking on the bottom of the trigger. Reads CAO 02/84, not totally sure of is meaning except it appears to have placed in service Feb of 1984.
Thanks again for the great write up on bead blasting.
rich

 

[skjos]

2/84 would be a little early for a 5906, I believe the production start was 1989; maybe it is some sort of PD armory number.

 

[rscalzo]

We transitioned to the S&W SA in 7/85 and the 659 was the production gun.

 

[goldenlight]

I bought my 5906 new, so long ago I can't even remember the year. Over time, it has acquired quite a few small marks from normal use. The first few really bothered me, but that's long past. I take it to the range quite often, and it still gets a ding once in awhile. It's a shooter. not a collector's piece.

I like the bead blasted finish, but it shows every little mark.

 

[TTSH]

Can you do that with a scotch brite pad or bead blast.

What about the (smallish) hammer and (extra fine) sandpaper method of fixing small shiny areas? I've seen it mentioned here on the forum a few times but never enough details or positive testimonies for me to try it myself.

 

[kantuck]

I've never tried this but: What about taking a fine grit abarsive paper like say 400 grit and placing the grit against the shiny spot then very carefully rubbing a pencil eraser against the back side of the paper? I'd sure practice that on another scrap of metal before doing it on a valuable gun!
FWIW, years ago I used to "sneak" gun parts into the tire factory where I worked and blast them with lime dust. It was used to clean residue off of AL tire molds that were extremely costly and had to retain precise dimensions. We also had walnut shells, pecan and beads. I use beads for MC parts often & the application (how long, how far away, how much psi) can be varied as much as the bead choices for various results.

 

[TTSH]

I've never tried this but: What about taking a fine grit abrasive paper like say 400 grit and placing the grit against the shiny spot then very carefully rubbing a pencil eraser against the back side of the paper? I'd sure practice that on another scrap of metal before doing it on a valuable gun!

Sounds like a variation of what I posted immediately above. Can someone please confirm if this works or not? And, if so, how to go about getting the best results?

 

[kantuck]

Sounds like a variation of what I posted immediately above. Can someone please confirm if this works or not? And, if so, how to go about getting the best results?

My untested version sounds more gentle thus less crushed abrasive particles against the gun.