First Attempt At Grip Refinish

[nostraDONus]

I finished the grips on my Highway Patrolman today. I'm very happy with the results. Not perfect, but much better than the high gloss they originally had. I think the matte finish goes better with the matte blue. Anyway, I'm now beginning on a set of horribly abused grips from my recent model 36 pick up. Let me know what you think.

 

[gaucho1]

Wow!
Great job. I would like to see a before.

 

[-db-]

Looks good. What did you use?

 

[JSR III]

More details and pictures too!!!

 

[michael thornton]

look good, what did you use?

 

[nostraDONus]

It had what seemed like about 10 coats of polyurethane on them. Very shiny and thick. I soaked them in acetone overnight and still had to work at it with 0000 steel wool to remove all the old finish. although it removed about all the finish from the checkering areas. Wiped down with mineral spirits, let them dry good and then applied painters tape over the S&W medallion. I used a toothbrush (don't tell my wife I used hers) to brush on the checkered area in between the first coats. It helped get in the groove around the checkering. Put two coats on the checkering. After the finish on the checkering dried for about 24 hours I applied the blue painters tape over it. Didn't want Tru Oil to build up in the checkering or groove.

I used 5 coats applied with my finger. I wore nitrile gloves while doing the refinish. Seemed to help with a smooth finish. Very light going over with the steel wool between each coat. The bottle says at least two hours. It's been hot and humid so I went at least 6 hours between coats. I wasn't in a hurry, rather wanted a nice finish.

After the final coat of Tru Oil I let them dry for about three days. Wanted to make sure all the coats were good and cured. Then a light application with the 0000 steel wool to take the shiny appearance off the finish. Be careful not to apply too much pressure with the steel wool. My first attempt was a little agressive and I needed to restart after sanding through a couple spots. You just need to take it back to a dull finish. Sand light and let the steel wool do the work. After dulling the finish I wiped it off with a soft cloth and dusted it off with canned air.

I finished with Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner for the matte finish. For a more glossy look you can use their stock polish. Wish I had taken more before and process photos but with a 100 lb. lab and mini terror 2 year old running around my feet I had all I could do to protect what I was doing.

This is my next project. Much more work. these grips are off an abused Model 36. Had some rust around the barrel and the finish on the grips was mostly gone. The wood was very dry and there was damage around the checkering, which was well worn. I'm just trying to clean them up and make them somewhat presentable as I don't believe they could be brought back to near new. I increased the groove around the checkering at one point as it was chipped away and looked pretty rough. I'm taking my time and will probably add many coats of Tru Oil to fill in all the rough spots. I'll post photos when I'm done.

 

[customizedcreationz]

Looks good !

Good job !

 

[H Richard]

Hint for you. After letting dry for 4-5 days after the last coat, instead of using 0000 steel wool to knock the finish down, use a solution (paste) of rotten stone in mineral oil. this will make a finish you will love. It isn't too late to try now.

 

[customizedcreationz]

Rotten Stone eh? Mind to give a little more info on that tip? I am curious.

 

[nostraDONus]

Hint for you. After letting dry for 4-5 days after the last coat, instead of using 0000 steel wool to knock the finish down, use a solution (paste) of rotten stone in mineral oil. this will make a finish you will love. It isn't too late to try now.

I would try it. What is "rotten stone"?

 

[ditrina]

I would try it. What is "rotten stone"?

Pumice... after it goes Bad...

Ok Ok.. I could not resist...
Google is your friend...

Rotten stone, sometimes spelled as one word, and also known as tripoli, is fine powdered rock used as a polishing abrasive in woodworking. It is usually weathered limestone mixed with diatomaceous, amorphous, or crystalline silica. It has similar applications to pumice, but it is generally sold as a finer powder and used for a more glossy polish after an initial treatment with coarser pumice powder.
It is usually mixed with oil, sometimes water, and rubbed on the surface of varnished or lacquered wood with a felt pad or cloth. Rotten stone is sometimes used to buff stains out of wood. Some polishing waxes contain powdered rotten stone in a paste substrate. For larger polishing jobs, rotten stone mixed with a binder is applied to polishing wheels.
It has also been used to polish brass, such as that found on military uniforms, as well as steel and other metals. Plates used in daguerreotypes were polished using rotten stone, the finest abrasive available at the time.

 

[nostraDONus]

I was trying to figure out how stone would spoil like fruit if left in the sun.

Anyway, what difference in finish would this give as opposed to 0000 steel wool. I was looking for the matte finish on the grips. Any photo's?

Anyone?.........class....anyone?..................anyone?........

 

[chief38]

I carry my M60 Chief Special (usually in front pocket, so grips wear) on a regular basis and I usually refinish my grips once a year. Sounds like a lot of work, but with my method it is quite easy.

Go over the grips (stocks) with 0000 extra fine steel wool to smooth out the existing finish and open up the pores a bit. If you have any chips now is the time to lightly sand them smooth. Try not to remove any checkering, restoring that is another step!

I use Minwax stain of the appropriate color (matching original color) and let dry over night. Apply another stain coating if darkening is required and let dry over night once again.

For the final finish I have come to like Tung Oil. 100% Tung Oil, NOT a blend. I usually apply 4 hand rubbed coats (I use "Hopes" brand) using my 0000 steel wool very lightly between coatings. Let each coat dry over night. After the 4th coat I am now back in business! If at sometime I want to do a quick touch up all you need so is to apply an additional coat of Tung Oil (takes 5 minutes), let dry and your good to go.

I never liked lacquer finished grips on a carry gun because they usually peel off or wear off in layers which requires a complete stripping before refinishing. If you carry a gun with wooden grips on any regular basis, the finish will wear off in short order. My method works very well, lasts a long time, and a quick touch up restores them back to like new with out going through the entire process all over again.

By the way, have a "spare" set of grips on hand to install on the gun while going through the refinishing process so you can carry while the originals are being restored.

If the grips you are refinishing are going on a "safe queen" Lacquer will give you a glossier and more "flashy" finish, but in my opinion the method I use will prove to be more durable and more easily touched up if this is going to be a carry piece.

Regards,
chief38