First-hand account of *possible* internal lock malfunction (637 PC)

[Eski]

You had a malfunction, but your troubleshooting proved nothing definitively, and claiming you've proved a particular fault in this case, while popular, is not factual.

Definitely a fair point. However, two things lead me to still suspect the lock: the fact that the first and only thing I did was cycle the lock twice before it freed the hammer, and there were no foreign objects or broken parts when I checked under the side plate. I was expecting to see something loose that caused the action to bind but everything was perfect inside.

 

[hoppes-no9]

First-hand internal lock malfunction (637 PC)

If it were mine, it would be going back to be fixed, pronto.

I'm not sure there's anything to be "fixed." The concept of an IL on a revolver is flawed.

 

[MickeyR]

Just bought a 351PD after dealer told me the late models were not having any trouble with the locks. The gun had to be ordered from dealers supplier and was about to buy the 351c (without lock). Did i get taken?

 

[delcrossv]

Just bought a 351PD after dealer told me the late models were not having any trouble with the locks. The gun had to be ordered from dealers supplier and was about to buy the 351c (without lock). Did i get taken?

I have a bunch with locks and haven't had a failure yet, so the OP's experience is a "low probability event". That said, the IL is another possible source of failure, just because it's an additional mechanism.

Do I think you got ripped off? No.
If I were regularly carrying a piece with an IL, would I remove it? Yes.

 

[Echo40]

I've said it before and I'll say it again, if Smith & Wesson feels that their guns absolutely must have some sort of built-in locking mechanism rather than simply including a bike lock like everyone else, then I wish that they would copy the Taurus Security System which looks nicer and I've yet to hear of it ever engaging under recoil.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Really doesn't matter WHY it locked, but that it did. My guns get one chance. Has a Ruger PCR in 22-early double action only. Was dry firing it and it seized up for no reason. Opened the cylinder closed it and the gun started functioning then seized up again. All thus before I even live fired it. Sent it back and they replaced just about everything, pawl, ratchet and a few other things. Gun worked fine, but by then I had lost confidence it in and off it went. Pretty much soured me on the new fangled "plastic" revolvers by both Ruger and Smith. Will stick to the K frame and SP101 from now on. And yes I will not have a lock on any. Too many extra non needed parts needlessly complicating things-means more stuff to possibly fail.
Quite frankly, I've got more revolvers than I'll ever need so there really isn't any reason to buy anymore-but if I do feel the need for another revolver it will be a Ruger. Sorry-nothing to do with the lock but I have come to realize that Smiths are pretty much old technology-beautiful to look at, handle and shoot-but old technology nonetheless. I think Ruger revolvers are a far superior product as far as revolvers go (except for the plastic ones ) and much as I hate to say it, Ruger has pretty much left S&W in the dust regarding all products by any objective standard.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

It doesn't sound like a "lock failure ". But that doesn't matter now.
OP. You've lost confidence in your gun. The correct thing to do , is to send it in, get it fixed and then sell it. Seeing as that you will never trust it.
The next thing you gotta do is change the title of your post. As it is inaccurate.

 

[colt_saa]

After reading the OP's account, I do not know if he had a internal lock failure or not.

What we do know is that turning the lock key on and off cleared what ever was obstructing the action.

In an ideal setting, the side plate would be removed before clearing the obstruction.

Then the obstruction could be photographed and submitted to Smith & Wesson

As others have stated, it does not matter how or why the failure occurred.

You must have 100% confidence in whatever you choose to protect yourself and those around you

 

[bigggbbruce]

I would remove the flag & springs and just deactivate the lock. No need for the plug it's just cosmetic.

Yep, non issue anymore on my 60..

 

[Mehutch]

Originally Posted by AZretired
I would remove the flag & springs and just deactivate the lock. No need for the plug it's just cosmetic.

"it's just cosmetic" yeah but it makes a difference. Put the plug in that ugly hole.

 

[haywood]

I don't like the hole or the stupid arrow. I won't buy a S&W gun with lock. I know most people think I'm stupid but, It's one less possible problem.