First Squib!!

[BZimm]

When I visit this page the word "squib" seems to jump out at me. I appreciate that very much, and as the one gentleman said, it needs to be talked about.

I charge my cases off to the side of my press 50 at a time. I am fanatical about setting my powder measure and I reweigh every 5th case.

It takes me quite a while to load 200 handgun cases. I really don't mind.

 

[Daver7]

I load on a Dillon 550 and I weigh every charge. It's simple with a digital scale. Leave the pin out at the powder charge station pull the case put it on the scale push the tare button then put it back in the press pull the lever dropping the powder charge, pull the case and weigh it if it's right put the bullet on back in the press rotate the press. Sounds more complicated than it is. I know that every case is charged.

 

[Al W.]

I've had a few.
Primer pushing the bullet into the forcing cone.
Sometimes it will lock up the revolver.
Not much to report.
I made a rod, mine is wrapped steel.
Easy enough in a pistol.
For rifle, just generally a pain in the ***.
Don't load when your tired or in a hurry.
I've seen guys on youtube carry blanks to get the squib out of the barrel .
Haven't resorted to that yet.
Probably wouldn't work for a primer squib, might be just the thing for a light load though.

 

[Carrier]

Way back in the 80's when I first started reloading and had a squib I made up a "pud popper" as designed by one of my shooting buddies. Solid brass rod with a large wood ball glued to the end. One in size for a .38 and one for a .45. They ride in my range bag, and have only been used (by me) once since then, but have been loaned out a few times.

HRichard could you give us the measurements of those rods please?

 

[crazyphil]

With 8 shooters in a class, shooting 100 rounds each, I could
expect a squib or two. I always carried a .22 cleaning rod, and it
worked for all calibers.

 

[nachogrande]

CONGRATS FOR NOTICING & ACTING ON IT.

Glad it wasn't ANOTHER story of a barrel full of squibs. A good reason for a single stage press & using a loading block to visually check every case full of powder, as compared to the others. I WOULD weigh the loaded rounds first. Those that are lower than the "avg" (by a "significant" amount, or the app powder charge wt) would then be pulled. OR you could shoot them 1 at a time, from a not so dear to you gun. I prefer the extra wt of the brass rod, & dropping it down the bbl, rather than forcing it or hammering it.

 

[oldbrownhat]

HRichard could you give us the measurements of those rods please?

5/16" (0.3125") works for 9mm & .38/357, and 3/8" (0.375") for .40 & .45. Those are standard sizes; if you have a lathe you could turn down larger stock for a closer fit, but it isn't necessary.

(Sorry- I'm not HRichard, so am guessing he used standard stock sizes.)

 

[S&WIowegan]

I've been reloading since 1990 and started because USPSA and Steel shooting eats a lot of ammo. I've had way more squibs than people are confessing to in this thread but I don't count them. After some experience, I bought a three brass rod set from Brownells; the rods are 9mm/357, 40/10mm and 44/45. Those can handle virtually all common squibs.

Recently a highly experienced shooter at our steel match had a 9mm squib. He tried to pound it out with an Arredondo plastic/fiber rod with no luck. He came charging up to me asking for a brass rod. I gave him the rod AND a brass hammer too. Squib came right out with proper tools. The blow need not be extremely powerful, just a sharp rap.

People including me wonder why my range bag is so heavy. It's the accumulation of virtually any tool one might need.

 

[Paul105]

+1 on squip rods 9mm, .38, .357 cal. : BROWNELLS SQUIB ROD | Brownells

Brownells used to sell these as "kit". Can't remember when I bought mine but it must have been 20 yrs ago or so.

Very handy. Have used for squibs, bullets that jumped crimp in revolver, and slugging barrels to name a few.

FWIW,

Paul

 

[SMSgt]

I've always used loading blocks and a SS press. Powder drops are checked every 10-15 drops, depending on powder type. Each case in the block gets a lookover before a bullet is seated.

Never had a squib. Two dead primers in many years of reloading, ironically from the same pack of primers. Never had to pull bullets for a bad load.

Haste makes waste when it comes to reloading.

 

[kbm6893]

When I visit this page the word "squib" seems to jump out at me. I appreciate that very much, and as the one gentleman said, it needs to be talked about.

I charge my cases off to the side of my press 50 at a time. I am fanatical about setting my powder measure and I reweigh every 5th case.

It takes me quite a while to load 200 handgun cases. I really don't mind.

I weigh every charge. 50 round take me about 20 minutes. I’m in no rush also. I used to weigh 50 at a time and then seat the bullet, but one time I bumped my charged case hand into the press and spilled the powder into the already charged cases. So had to start over. Now I weigh, charge and seat a round one at a time. Sometimes I do 10 at a time. No rush.

 

[joe44va]

Welcome to the club. Glad you caught it.
I use a 5/16" oak dowel with a 30 carbine case on one end. Gives it a bit of something to pound on.

 

[GypsmJim]

When I reload, I used to charge the cases and then put them in a loading block. I used to purposely leave one empty and another with a double charge. When I inspect them, it's clear to see the 2 problem cases, and I fix them. If others are off by a "hair" I can't detect that.

In 45 years of reloading I have had exactly 1 squib. No powder in the case. Was it from one of the few times a few years ago that I didn't follow my regimen? I dunno.

I DO know that now I'm back to my old procedure.

I would never be comfortable with a progressive press, for the sheer reason that I couldn't inspect each powder charge.

 

[68Dave]

Thanks for all the comments and responses. I used an oak rod as I could not find brass as easily. Squib was lodged about an inch or so down the barrel. There appeared to be powder residue in the case and the outside was pretty black on one side.
David.

 

[S&WIowegan]

+1 on squip rods 9mm, .38, .357 cal. : BROWNELLS SQUIB ROD | Brownells

Brownells used to sell these as "kit". Can't remember when I bought mine but it must have been 20 yrs ago or so.

Very handy. Have used for squibs, bullets that jumped crimp in revolver, and slugging barrels to name a few.

FWIW,

Paul

The squib rod kit is listed on the link you posted. My kit has only 3 rods but they now are offering the 5-rod kit including 32 cal and 22 cal.

 

[rg1]

I've always replied to .38 Special as the most squib producing caliber of them all. The case is long, light charges of powder lying on the bottom of the case or all the way forward with empty space between the primer and powder. Plus case wall thickness varies between brands and sometimes results in loose bullet tension. Or some using too slow of powder for .38's adds to the problem. I've watched some .38 shooters and can see their bullets in the air with different sounds each shot. Bullets even dropping to the ground only a few yards out. And the only time I've seen bullets stuck in the barrel. Need good bullet tension and a good roll crimp to keep the bullet from moving with just the primer ignition. Bullet moves from the primer only before the powder gets fully ignited creating a larger volume for powder to burn and very low pressure. I still say the .38 Special is the squibbiest caliber of all.

 

[Engineer1911]

One squib round is not a big deal. Fifty 357 mag rounds with no powder dumped into a 50 caliber ammo can is a Problem. I won't bore you with the details, but it was a 20° F day in Minnesota at the range. I was reloading on a Rock Chucker at the time with 5 MTM reloading blocks. Weighing the loaded rounds was not 100% positive on detecting no-powder cartridges. I think I "found" 35 rounds with no powder, pulled the bullets, and 30 cases were not charged. The oak dowel fixed the other 18.

After the second squib I went home and made oak dowel range rods.

In 1982 I replaced the barrel on my 1974 model Gold Cup. There were two squibs that night. Mine and the pistol smith who replaced my barrel. He also got a new barrel for his Gold Cup. We were both reloading on Dillon 450 presses with manual primer feed and manual powder dispensing.

 

[50150me]

Last Squib!

When I had a Lee progressive reloader, I had squibs. Usually the primer feeder would screw up. When I repaired the screw up is when I ran into problems. Just stopping and clearing up the screw up is an invitation to loose track of what is happening. ie an unpowdered round. Finally I dumped the Lee and got a Dillon and for the last 25 years of reloading I have had no problems or squibs.

 

[scout789]

It's good to talk about these things....we know. Load long enough and most have done one.
50 years ago my bullet lodged in the forcing cone, so the cylinder wouldn't turn. That was the Good Lord looking out for my dumb ignorant self....He stopped me from doing any harm.
No powder in case. That incident has made me very aware of the importance of the charging step. I look into the case, 3 different times before the bullet is seated . I have stayed with a single station press just so I can clearly observe and double check the powder or lack of powder in the cases.
I have forgotten a lot of things...but not that stuck bullet and how close I came to pulling the trigger again.
You did well when you caught it before firing another shot. Good Job.
Double check those charged cases , and remember if one case got no powder, did another get a double charge ? You have to be careful when charging cases on the press (turret or progressive) it's all to easy to mess up. Load Safe.
Gary

I'm reading this thread because I had exactly the same issue occur today. Bullet stuck between cylinder and forcing cone. How did you rectify this? How hard is it to drive the bullet back into the cylinder? HELP PLEASE!

 

[oldbrownhat]

I'm reading this thread because I had exactly the same issue occur today. Bullet stuck between cylinder and forcing cone. How did you rectify this? How hard is it to drive the bullet back into the cylinder? HELP PLEASE!

BTDT about two weeks ago Not hard to do.

Arthur Dent (Hitch-hiker's Guide to the Galaxy) was advised to "always take a towel." In this case, always take a range rod and a small hammer. (Also see post #24)

Rod can be 5/16" aluminum or brass (for 9mm/38/357, 3/8" for .45). Put rod down barrel and against bullet, tap smartly a few times and it will go back into the case. Gun should be pointed down-range, just to be safe of course.