Fractured sear on a new 640 Pro

Old_Blue, looking at the pic of the fractured sear you posted, I can be pretty certain that your problem was not caused by dry firing. That part was defective, for whatever reason. I would hazard a guess that any breakage caused by dry firing would be related to the floating firing pin or spring, not the other internals.

Appreciate the feedback, muddocktor. Anyway, after that talk with customer service, I'm cured of the impression that S&W's 21st-century revolvers are any more able to tolerate dry-firing w/o snap caps than my circa-1990 guns are. Now if they'd just edit their FAQ to make that clear, they might save some money on repairs.
 
I'm having trouble understanding what effect snap caps would have on the sear. The sear/hammer contact area "breaks" and then the hammer falls. The hammer then hits the firing pin which then hits either a snap cap, a primer or the frame (or the retainer). It's not much time, but the sear is free of contact when the hammer hits. How would the sear break as shown unless it had a defect in it. P.s. I've seen plenty of casting and forging defects too. These things happen and I agree with the break in type comments.
 
I bet they also do some other thing the purist would hate. Closed up with the cylinder stop up, operated with side plate off etc.

Building a revolver is messy business. There is a lot of brute force involved. In all of the revolver armorer courses I attended at Smith, not once did we use a snap cap or were we ever told that we needed to. In fact, just the opposite was the case. Having said that, if you like snap caps, go for it. (I also let my 1911 slides drop on an empty chamber.)
 
This is a great thread. I learned a lot from several of the posts. And the tone of the discussion was not too technical (I get lost fast) and pleasantly cordial.
 
I don't normally over cycle my S&W's with or with out snap caps, but I don't let my 1911's slam shut on an empty chamber. Sort of like eating, a little bit of everything, but not to excess.
 

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