Frog Lube Review

Molybdenum Disulfide is some amazing stuff. I used to use it for machining difficult materials. In the 80's
Now I'm using and selling FrogLube. The best stuff I have used yet.
 
I like what Weapon Shield lube does for my guns :D
But also have used hoppes #9 Rem Oil CLP in the black spray can and many others and to tell you the difference i cant really tell the diffirence between any of them, maybe Weapon Shield stays on a little bit longer (maybe) but besides that they all do what i expect.
 
All the talk about "the best lube" reminds me of the ol guy at the auto parts place I deal with, his reply to me when I asked what was the best grease to use on my vehicles, "used...none of it is worth a damn if you don't use it"

Thanks for the review on the FL, very interesting to me even tho I'm using Mil-Com. I guess it's a "pick your pony & ride" kinda deal when it comes to lube IMO
 
I have been enjoying the review process, and it causes me to be much more observant than I would be otherwise. It is always one's choice what products they use. I was stuck on the petroleum products until a couple years ago and now I find myself using FL, which may just be the next step up from the synthetics. The thing I seem to like most, besides the ease of cleaning, is that FL stays where I put it. Then, when I run the gun, it seems to flow nicely to where it's needed and after cooling, seems to stay where it flowed to. We'll see how it works long term, as I now have all of my firearms done with FL.
RichH
 
While everyone has their favorite, I've come to believe that for the majority of us non-commercial shooters, as long as a firearm is properly lubed, the actual lube used is of no particular importance.
 
I find that Anal-Ease works really well. It stands up to friction and lets me keep banging away...

Wait, you're talking about guns huh? Wrong forum. :-D
 
I don't know, and don't necessarily want to know, where you are concealing that firearm. However, I would suggest low profile sights.
RichH
 
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I've been wondering about the FL here in AK too. With it getting cold now it would be the perfect time to try it, but if it doesn't work well in cold, I don't want to damage something. Anyone with a spare 15-22 layin around that wants to know, I'd be happy to test it :) I was running a silicon aerosol that a lgs suggested and it works really well, but it's the most awful smell ever. And the first time I used it was indoors, needless to say it was hard to breathe once I sprayed it the first time. Even outside with a small breeze it's nauseating. But in all seriousness, does anyone have any experience with the FL in the cold?
 
According to the FL website there is no problem in extremely cold or hot weather. Look at their website for the testimonials. I will be testing the hot weather this summer here in Mesa, AZ. We regularly get over 110* in the shade. Please share any results here so we all get the info.
RichH
 
OldEagleEars said:
Help me out on something about gun lubes, please. Back in Vietnam the MILSPEC-issue gun lube had a problem with picking up dust and not playing well with humidity (two things we had in great abundance!). There was a civilian lube called "Dri-Slide" that all us troops loved and the Army hated; it seemed to keep the action of a M16 working better than anything. I remember guys had their folks or wives send them the stuff and the company that made it even shipped over several cases for free. I never found out what it was and since I got out of shooting when I took off the uniform I totally lost track of the stuff. Does anyone know anything about it? Was it a silicone-based material? (we didn't think it had graphite in it) And what happened to the company that made it? The only downside I can recall was it needed to be reapplied pretty often but didn't get all gunky like MILSPEC-lube with dust. I also seem to remember some problems with the **** that the gas-impingement system blew into the receiver, but then, that was a problem with everything! Thanks for any assistance you may be able to give.
Click to expand...

I know of Dri-Slide from bicycling.
It is a common lube for a dirty environment where dirt sticking to wet lube and turning it into a lapping compound is a problem..
A quick search turned up this.
Lickbike.com | Dri-Slide Bike Aid Lubricant with needle
 
I've recently tried a new product, at least new to me: It's a Hornady "One Shot" product listed as Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube. Says it cleans, dry lubes, corrision resistant, exceeds Mil Spec, etc., etc. etc......Tried it as directed. It seemed to work excellant.....Fired off 250 rds, a mix of everything, and found much less build up on feed ramp and bolt face....It convinced me, and clean-up was a breeze using the same product again......For what it's worth, whatever works......best regards Plum
 
I still have a few jars of Berryhills' Ultimate. Talk about slick! Cleanup is just wiping down with a cloth.
 
I have been using FL on my 15-22 and on a Bushmaster 5.56 for the last two years. I have had great success on both firearms. I got too busy (another word for lazy) and neglected them after a few outings and they were filthy! I used a heat gun to heat up the bolt assemblies and with a little soak time with FL, clean up was super easy! There are tons of products out there and its always a plus to have so many choices. FL is deffinately the poop.
 
Since I have heated my 15-22 a couple of times, I am now able to just wipe off the crud and reapply a new coat of FL to the cold parts. Had to sight in a new red dot yesterday before my match so, with some plinking as well, went through about 300 rounds. Got home and, not really surprised anymore, the gun literally wiped clean with a rag and q-tips. Even after wiping the parts down I found them to still be slick. Looked really close at the parts for any unusual wear and found none. This stuff seems to be working at least as well as I hoped it would. I'm going to shoot the steel match next Tuesday with my 9mm and reloads, which are usually a little dirty, so we'll see how that goes.
RichH
 
Now that winter is approaching here in the north. And the sun is spotty at best. What would be the best way to heat the parts?
Heat gun, Hair dryer ? Or what would you use that would do the trick?
 
Click-Click-BOOM said:
Now that winter is approaching here in the north. And the sun is spotty at best. What would be the best way to heat the parts?
Heat gun, Hair dryer ? Or what would you use that would do the trick?
Click to expand...

Either should work! Be somewhat more cautious with a heat gun, however, since it's higher possible operating temperatures could warp the polymer parts on the M&P15-22.
 
Even here in AZ, we have days when I can not get the gun warm enough with solar power. When that happens I turn the oven on low, mine goes down to 175*, and leave the parts in there for 10 minutes or so. I wipe on the FL immediately and leave them to cool on my bench. Keep in mind that after 2-3 applications using heat, you can start using it on cold parts just like any other CLP.
RichH
 
We were warned many years ago NOT to use WD40 on rifles and pistols because it could penetrate the primer on the cartridge causing it to not fire.
 
Dvan34 said:
We were warned many years ago NOT to use WD40 on rifles and pistols because it could penetrate the primer on the cartridge causing it to not fire.
Click to expand...

Old wives tale totally discredited by many, many tests over the last 20 years. The only way WD-40 can kill primers is to spray it directly into the open mouth of the primer.

Check out Box O Truth for just one such test.

WD-40 should not be used for the simple reason there is nothing it does that is useful on a firearm.
 
I used a hair dryer and it worked fine, after a couple of treatments on my Kahr, (yes I have other guns) it was like having a action job done. I'm sold on FL, love it, I heat treated everything metal, knives, mags, slides, bolts, barrels, you name it.!!
 
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