FTF's from gunsmithed 686 SSR

RichardC

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I'm getting failures to ignite on almost every other cylinderful. The rounds show shallow primer indents but will fire on second or third triggerpulls.


This gun had gone to a 'smith for trigger work; my friends present think it's a gun problem, not an ammo problem.

Here's a picture of several unfired rounds. What do you think?

PRIMERINDENTS.jpg
 
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I think it is a gun problem and not the ammo, but to be sure, try a different brand of ammo and try some 357 rounds also.
 
What do you think?

I think your mainspring is set too light. I'd start by returning it to factory spec and see if the problem goes away.

Added: The key is that you said it sometimes takes three hits to fire. A high primer fires on the second try after the first seats the primer.
 
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Honestly, i'm surprised that the rounds shown went off. If it took two or three tries to get the primers to look like that, i'd definately say you have a spring issue.
 
I have a gunsmithed 686SSR also that I use in IDPA. Your first move should be to try some Federal ammo. The Federal primers are easier to light off. I use only my own handloads in mine using Federal primers which I seat deep with a hand primer tool(RCBS).
 
Honestly, i'm surprised that the rounds shown went off. If it took two or three tries to get the primers to look like that, i'd definately say you have a spring issue.

Those are unfired 158 gr plated semiwadcutters balanced on the flat points with just one firing pin strike.
 
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Those don't look like normal firing pin indentations from any of my guns. They look like the firing pin just barely stuck the primer. I'd agree with the light mainspring (or some other gun issue) assessment.
 
I had the EXACT problem after my 686 gunsmith trigger job. I watched the gunsmith use different ammo and it still FTF. When the factory main spring was reinstalled, the problem went away. Still a nice smooth pull with Wolff internals and all, but with the original main spring.
 
From what I have read here on the forum, there is a lot of FTF from short firing pins in new Smiths. If the mainspring has been lightened, it is hard to say which one is the problem without some trial and error. You can either replace the firing pin or put in an original mainspring and main spring strain screw and see if the problem is corrected. If not, then the firing pin may be too short. Or you can try a new firing pin, and if that does not correct it, then you will need a stronger mainspring.
 
A short firing pin might be part of the problem. You really need to find out whether the trigger job was intended as a Federal primer only trigger job. The level of ignition you are getting sounds about right. If you switch to hand seated Federal's you might find that it becomes reliable.

If that isn't what you want from the gun then you will need to rebalance the springs (rebound spring included).
 
A short firing pin might be part of the problem. You really need to find out whether the trigger job was intended as a Federal primer only trigger job.

The 'smith and I clearly communicated that this was to be a self defense gun, with IDPA and other competitions as training. DA trigger pull was to be improved only within the bounds of dependably firing any brand of ammo.

I know, I need to contact him for help, but its quicker typing on AlGore's Internet than it is to dig up the receipt for the trigger work, and call the man. I know he'll help me out. I just don't want to ship the gun across the country again if I don't have to.
 
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Try as I might I have been unable to get reliable firing with lighter than stock mainsprings on frame mounted firing pin guns. Even using the Clylinder & Slide extended FP. Federal primers will help but that is not what I expect from a gun. One quick check would be to see if the strain screw is tight, and if it is try a spent primer cup over the end of the screw to put more tension on the mainspring. If that takes care of the problem then either try a extended FP with that spring(less the cup) or go back to a stock mainspring.
 
The 'smith and I clearly communicated that this was to be a self defense gun, with IDPA and other competitions as training. DA trigger pull was to be improved only within the bounds of dependably firing any brand of ammo.

I know, I need to contact him for help, but its quicker typing on AlGore's Internet than it is to dig up the receipt for the trigger work, and call the man. I know he'll help me out. I just don't want to ship the gun across the country again if I don't have to.

According to what you say above, the gunsmith owes you a free rework on this gun until it meets the standards you requested.
 
Don, That was my thinking....exactly!!! It should ALWAYS be tight! Perhaps it was loosened up...... for the lighter trigger pull. This is the first thing to check...ALWAYS.

Then, perhaps your trigger return spring is too light. The lowest that I use is a 13# Wolff spring. Any lower, then you get the problems you describe.....unreliable ignition. You need to be careful when you install reduced spring rates, to get a lighter trigger pull. That.....or get softer primers. Bob
 
This problem is the gun, not the ammo. The gun certainly came out of the box ready to light up every round, but it has now been "improved" to the point that the firing pin strikes are waaaay too light.

You could accept the trigger pull as being now exactly what you want with the strain screw tight. Then install an extended firing pin, use only Federal primers and decide if the reliablity percentage is OK for your use. If not, keep fiddling.

Or maybe put it back to stock and ship it to Smith to get a PC trigger job. Most of us who have really screwed up the action on a revolver finally figure out the difference between a light trigger and a smooth trigger.

In my opinion, if you want different from stock, the goal is the smoothest action you can get and 100% ignition reliability using the primers of your choice.

Just my 2 cents
 
What kind of primers are you using? I have a friend with a smithed 64 that will only ignite Federal primers reliably, so he just loads with Federals.
 
This problem is the gun, not the ammo. The gun certainly came out of the box ready to light up every round, but it has now been "improved" to the point that the firing pin strikes are waaaay too light.

You could accept the trigger pull as being now exactly what you want with the strain screw tight. Then install an extended firing pin, use only Federal primers and decide if the reliablity percentage is OK for your use. If not, keep fiddling.

Or maybe put it back to stock and ship it to Smith to get a PC trigger job. Most of us who have really screwed up the action on a revolver finally figure out the difference between a light trigger and a smooth trigger.

In my opinion, if you want different from stock, the goal is the smoothest action you can get and 100% ignition reliability using the primers of your choice.

Just my 2 cents
I had the exact same problem, actually there is a thread about it here somewhere. I got some Federal brand, american eagle .357 and 38 spec and tried that...I got less ftf but still quite a few. I was at H&H, where I bought the gun and my wife was watching from outside the range and could see I was pissed so she got some guy there at the desk and he had me take it back to the gunsmiths area and they tighten the spring and it went away...Now mine had not had a trigger work at all, right out of the box...If it comes back I will send back to S&W. I hope I didn't void the warranty by doing that....I love shooting this gun and its really accurate but the ftf kinda takes the glow off if you know what I mean
 
In my opinion, if you want different from stock, the goal is the smoothest action you can get and 100% ignition reliability using the primers of your choice.

That was my request.




I tried 36 rounds from another manufacturer last night before the Tuesday night match, no problems.

So, of course, DURING the match ... anyway, now I know it happens with other ammo. Found my receipt, will be calling the 'smith this afternoon.
 
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