Getting accurate with Airweights

[340PDOperator]

I shoot a wide variety of guns. Primarily Glocks but I also have a 1911 and a model 10. I am accurate with everything except my 340PD.

I used to own a 642 that I regret selling. But I did a lot better with the 642 than what I've been able to with the 340PD.

It's definitely me because I've hit the X before. The gun is way more accurate than me. But the issue may lie with the recoil. It's stout. Even with my lowest charge handloads it kicks pretty good. That recoil may be causing too much anticipation and flinch.

I'm not sure if the steel lined barrel hurts anything. I've been on target before so maybe not.

Anyone trained and got good at their Airweights? Especially the 340?

I'd appreciate any tips to improve my groups, which are terrible at best. I have grouped them within the 10 ring @5 yards before but it's a rarity with this one gun. I can blow out the 10 ring @5yd with my Glocks all day long.

Thanks for the advice in advance!


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[murphydog]

Definitely a challenging gun to shoot well. A very firm hold, the proper stocks and trigger control are key, but if you shoot other guns well you already know that.

What stocks are on it, and how heavy would you classify your "lowest charge" handloads? If they are anywhere near .357 level that is likely the cause of your difficulties, and you may need to back down even farther from those.

 

[Autococker07]

I love model 37s, and can do "ok" but I can see a reduction in my accuracy with them... I think i flinch more with the lighter gun. I had a friends father who is a retired US postal inspector shoot with us once... He used to carry a Md37 at the post office, and he shot the thing like Jerry Miculek (just about as fast too!!). He was super accurate, and only shot it DA. He laughed at us and told us thats what practice does! It can be done!!!

 

[340PDOperator]

Definitely a challenging gun to shoot well. A very firm hold, the proper stocks and trigger control are key, but if you shoot other guns well you already know that.

What stocks are on it, and how heavy would you classify your "lowest charge" handloads? If they are anywhere near .357 level that is likely the cause of your difficulties, and you may need to back down even farther from those.

I handload 158gr to fire at 600fps. Nothing earthmoving. I'm almost thinking I need to switch to 125gr projectiles to lessen the recoil impulse a little.


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[getoff]

lighter bullet weights will make a huge diff. i had a 360 that i shot pretty well. my 442 has a trigger job and 3 finger hogue woodies. shoots like a dream and carries just as light (3 oz diff) as my 360 did. other wise the obvious trigger pull, flinch, yadda yadda, as you probably know and has been mentioned. i way prefer my 442 or my 60 even, over the airlights. not sure if it helps or not... hornady makes the critical defense in 90 grain that is soft shooting.

 

[Rick_A]

I rented a 340 which led to a 442, as I have no desire to fire magnums from something that small.

I prefer the 158gr loads, whether target or defense.

They all shoot well for me.

I literally just woke up one day finding I could shoot a J frame well.

 

[Larry from Bend]

I killed a Coyote with my 38 a few years ago. The sights are "on" for me at 25 yards or so with 135 grain Gold Dots; fortunately. I can't shoot it as well as my Model 60, though. Start with wadcutters -- might help.

 

[wrangler5]

I shoot 158g lead bullets at about 600 fps in all my 38s, including 3 different J frames. (I shoot enough of 'em to take up bullet casting, but I digress.) As others have said, practice is the key, and next comes a set of grips that hurt the least when you shoot, so you can stand to practice more.

The most comfortable grips I've used are Pachmayr Decelerators, which are hand filling AND cushy. But if you want to carry concealed and practice with what you carry, they're almost certainly too big. My next most comfortable are Pachmayr Compacs, which are bigger than boot grips or wooden Magna styles, but much more concealable than the larger Pachs.

But what I've gone to for both practice and carry is the Crimson Trace LG-305. It's got backstrap cushioning and enough length to get your pinky on, but is still pretty concealable on a belt, and pocketable in most jacket pockets although probably not in most pants. The REAL advantage, though, is that it's a fabulous dry-fire trainer, that gives you instant feedback throughout the trigger cycle. I've dry fired thousands of "rounds" during TV commercials, picking off corners of books or pictures across the room. I'm absolutely convinced that my accuracy AND speed have been improved by regular use of this tool. (I also have the boot-style LG-405 grip, which is not nearly as comfortable to shoot as the 305, although its thinner and shorter dimensions do make it more pocketable. Its backstrap cushioning makes it only slightly more comfortable to shoot than a stock S&W boot grip.)

 

[Old TexMex]

I found my trigger finger position was causing me to hit wild and left with my 37. I needed a T grip, and less "finger in the hole".
Apparently it was the muscles in my hand flexing that changed my POI. ( referring to DA shooting, of course)
Reason I mention is that I had no wild first shot with my DA/SA CZ75, even though the trigger pull was nearly the same.
My CZ has the perfect grip for me, I had to try and duplicate it with my 37, & 38 (and 36 as well)

 

[340PDOperator]

I have boot grips on my 340 right now. It's the most naturally pointing grips. I used to have the CT 305 but my pocketability suffered a little so I switched back. I will have to look into the Pachmayr Decelerator. I remembered my old LCR. The hogue grip on that made a nice difference.


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[kaaskop49]

I have nerve damage in the web of my shooting hand. Rather than undergo another operation, I wear a weight lifting glove on that hand when range shooting. Provides a smidge of protection especially on the flyweights.

Don't know if anything would help on the Scandiums, though. The cushioned grips add much weight and negate the intention of the flyweight. In that case, maybe better to use a steel frame J-mag. Hey, at least it let's you buy another gun!

Happy Easter and Happy Passover to all!

 

[ridgewalker]

You sound very experienced so excuse me if anything I say sounds too basic. I agree with what has been said thus far. J frames are hard to shoot well and the 340 PD is probably one of the hardest to master. I practice dry firing when I am home alone. Absolutely no ammunition present and all other standard safety rules followed. The Crimson Trace grips are good training tools but I think that just plain dry firing practice can be just as good.

It sounds like your load should be light enough although going to a lighter bullet will help. For commercial ammo, I have found the standard velocity 38 special 132 gr PMC brand to be a fairly light load.

Shoot a cylinder slowly off the bench. That should give you a benchmark so you can see the best you can achieve. Then shoot freehand, note the difference and think about what you can do to improve.

Take breaks from your 340PD. Shoot one or 2 cylinders, then shoot one of your other guns that you do better with. When you are relaxed, come back to the 340. It's a long, slow process to learn to shoot it well. It might take months to become accustomed to your gun where you can shoot it well. Dry firing practice can speed things along.

Is the tip of your trigger finger coming into contact with your strong thumb when you squeeze. I was having that problem and noticed it made me flinch. I straightened and raised my thumb so my index finger would not contact it. I found I have to be careful that the thumb doesn't contact the cylinder release or it will bite me.

 

[eveled]

I like to practice with a laser bullet. I load the laser and 4 snap caps, shoot the laser then dry fire 4 times then aim with the laser. It can be fun, and helps smooth out the trigger pull, Ed

 

[340PDOperator]

You sound very experienced so excuse me if anything I say sounds too basic. I agree with what has been said thus far. J frames are hard to shoot well and the 340 PD is probably one of the hardest to master. I practice dry firing when I am home alone. Absolutely no ammunition present and all other standard safety rules followed. The Crimson Trace grips are good training tools but I think that just plain dry firing practice can be just as good.



It sounds like your load should be light enough although going to a lighter bullet will help. For commercial ammo, I have found the standard velocity 38 special 132 gr PMC brand to be a fairly light load.



Shoot a cylinder slowly off the bench. That should give you a benchmark so you can see the best you can achieve. Then shoot freehand, note the difference and think about what you can do to improve.



Take breaks from your 340PD. Shoot one or 2 cylinders, then shoot one of your other guns that you do better with. When you are relaxed, come back to the 340. It's a long, slow process to learn to shoot it well. It might take months to become accustomed to your gun where you can shoot it well. Dry firing practice can speed things along.



Is the tip of your trigger finger coming into contact with your strong thumb when you squeeze. I was having that problem and noticed it made me flinch. I straightened and raised my thumb so my index finger would not contact it. I found I have to be careful that the thumb doesn't contact the cylinder release or it will bite me.

Great advice! I'm still always learning and I like the idea of shooting an entire other gun after 1-2 cylinders. DAO revolver followed by a Glock will sure make the Glock feel like a hair trigger!

One of my anti flinch drills is to load only 1 or 2 live rounds per cylinder and the rest spent cases. So I'll never know when it will go boom. And I closely watch my sights the entire time to ensure no wavering.

It sorta works but I like the idea you provided instead. Good tip!


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[David R]

I find the gun bites me less shooting double action. Maybe this is why your 642 was easier to shoot.

David

 

[sac-gunslinger]

My cure for recoil in an airweight is to use standard pressure 38 Special loads. Very controllable, a lot more effective than you realize. My favorite load is the Buffalo Bore 125 grain JHP #20E.

Remember, you cannot stop an assault if the gun is jumping out of your hand.

 

[M&P Freak]

For me it was a $14 pair of Pachmayr Compact grips that made all the difference. The covered backstrap and solid purchase did the trick.

 

[Lobster Picnic]

I've discovered the pink rubber boot grips tend to improve J-frame accuracy. This compels the shooter to make all shots count so he can put the pink gun back in his pocket before anyone sees it.

 

[4barrel]

Fear of the recoil.--Knowing it going to hurt. BLOOD ON YOUR FINGER WHEN THE TRIGGERGUARD CUTS IT. That is why mine is a snub k frame.

 

[Gearhead Jim]

With my Glock 19 or Hi-Power, I could usually ace our departmental qualification course while most officers shot in the mid-80's; so I was pretty decent "back in the day". With my 340PD (Bantam grips), I usually shot mid-upper 90's, so it can be done.

My technique:
A foam rubber grip exerciser used twice daily, and a very firm grip on the gun.
Moderate amount of dry fire at home.
Practice with some dummy rds or empty cases mixed in with live ammo, so any flinching is very obvious and embarrassing.
Most practice was with std vel 130 gr fmj, and shot the qual course with that because 50 rds of Speer 135 +P was too painful.
Use the +P occasionally to keep familiar with it.

When I was young and foolish; I practiced, qualified, and carried 158 gr +P. That was in the slightly heavier #38 or #642. But I used only the factory "stringbean" grips, so I was really into pain back then.