Grip suggestions for N frame 5" range/target gun?

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Loving my "new" 625-6, but not super excited about the stock hogue rubber combat grips. I wear size L gloves, so hands not huge (not dainty either). My pinky feels left out. This is 5" barrel and I think it feels more muzzle heavy than it should (duh, full underlug and all) because the grip doesn't allow my hand to support it's weight well. Anybody else get that feeling with these stock combat grips on N frames?

I'm using this gun for target, plinking, trail. Not competition or concealed carry. Love the look of wood grips on stainless guns, and have upgraded several of my autos this way. Thinking of buying some "larger" combats (what altamont calls "bateleur"), or maybe switch to target style with round to square butt conversion grips. Anybody move to larger combat grips or target /coke bottles from stock for this type of shooting? Good move? I found image from forum post of 2003 from member "bigGuns" of hogue combat grips that seem more substantial. I've attached (hope OK to show your gorgeous piece). Like this kind of look. Also attached Altamont bateleur image, looks nice for around $60. Would like to keep from buying 3 or 4 sets of grips to find right ones (been there, done that). What have you done to improve your grip for size L hands, and this kind of shooting? Please share pictures!
 

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Thanks Trout. Looks nice! . I appreciate your input, and your little wiggling fish analogy is fitting. After 2-3 shots I felt like I had to "re-grip" a bit. I like a grip that fills the hand and stays put more....and actually like the look of the vintage targets as well!
 
You're going to want to contact John Culina. Kurac on this site.
 
On a stailess gun I like blonde grips. You can get unstained maple or the Osage Orange from Ahrend Grips. Here's a pair I finished in Tung oil myself. They are Retro Combats, the maple are N-frame the Osage are k-frame (round to square conversion).
 

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Thanks SLT...checking out the Kurac site. Not seeing prices...it might be one of those "if you have to ask, you can't afford them". Which in my case, could be true. I'll pop them an email. Very nice stuff.

Hey Killer...great pics and nice grips! I've been checking out the Ahrends grips. I've noticed some people don't care for "flat" area across the front of the finger grooved combats. Obviously, they work very well for you...what size of hands do you have? As far as control and getting a grip up high, good marks? Thanks for taking the time. These seem to be a nice step down in price from Hogue wood grips (like 1/2 in some cases), without a big drop in fit, function, quality.
 
I have medium hands shading to small. So for autos with three backstraps I use the medium. For revolvers, I prefer full grips on the k-frames with covered back straps, but I prefer exposed back straps for my n-frames else they are a shade too big for me in double action.

Edit: you can, of course, modify grips with some sandpaper and a sanding block and patience. If you look around, you can usually find grips to play with on the auction sites a bit cheaper than buying new if you want to try some practice grips for sanding. Adding wood is harder, but it can be done too.
 
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I am going to say something heretical, too: I do not like full lug revolvers. I don't like the balance. That's one reason I don't have any 617s or 625s anymore. Stainless steel also adds to the problem due to the extra weight, so I prefer blued guns (and think they look better, too). JMO.
 
Hey Killer,
Nothing heretical about personal preference! I'm an open minded guy and always appreciate opinions and the perspective of others (even if I don't agree :D). So...what's your favorite caliber/frame/barrel length for some range fun?

This is my first real wheel gun. I've got a safe full of autos and a huge fan and owner of 2nd, 3rd gen smith bottom feeders. Honestly, I just wanted a big bad-*** N frame with big bore caliber :). Love moon clips too. I've shot several revolvers of friends and such, but no N frame 5" guns. Didn't really know what to expect. Got this 625-6 in like new condition this christmas with original box and papers, for $575 in GB buy it now. So price was right. I was also looking at model 25's. I like the weight, and love the way it shoots. I think some grip changes will make a huge difference, to only make it better. I've got the revolver bug now, and already stopping buy the local stores and filling my "watch" list with other models and calibers (don't tell my wife) on GB. Uh oh. Even if this one gets replaced by a new range fave...I'll still keep and shoot it. Part of the collection now:cool:
 
Nothing feels better to me than these Culina Cokes.
20171129_125801-1_zps1adgp2iw.jpg
 
Hey Killer,
Nothing heretical about personal preference! I'm an open minded guy and always appreciate opinions and the perspective of others (even if I don't agree :D). So...what's your favorite caliber/frame/barrel length for some range fun?
Model 27 5" or 6" (either m27 or m28). I do like the Model 25, too, although I don't have one right now.
 
I normally don't use anything with finger grooves. They just don't feel right to me. I have tried round to square conversions on my 625 JM. Currently use & like these. Bob
 

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OP: You have misidentified the grips in your pic in the first post of this thread. They are not Hogue combat grips, they are Nills grips. They also make an extended, "big butt" version.

Nills is a German company and their grips are very nice and also expensive. There is a Turkish company called KSD that makes knock-offs of the Nills designs plus original designs. The knock-offs seem to be diminishing - so there may have been some legal action on Nills part.

I have KSD grips on my 27-4 PC and love them...
nzhkzm.jpg


Unfortunately, these are no longer available from KSD - at least they are no longer on their website (KSD's like this still available for K, L & X frames). But you can get these from Nills, if you are willing to spend the money.

Good luck in your quest.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
On a stailess gun I like blonde grips. You can get unstained maple or the Osage Orange from Ahrend Grips. Here's a pair I finished in Tung oil myself. They are Retro Combats, the maple are N-frame the Osage are k-frame (round to square conversion).

If you don't care for finger grooves Ahrends has Retro Target's that do not have them. Nice grips.
 
Super! Great ideas and pictures guys. Many drool worthy! I'm leaning towards the Ahrends retro combats, as I do like finger grips (providing they are a good fit) and because they are reported to be a bit slimmer than the Ahrends tactical round to square. I'm definitely going to move towards a square butt look, I just don't like the "little" look of the round butt grips like Ahrends N frame round combats, or even the round retro combats. Those type just look like they belong on a snubby, or at most a 3incher (to me, I realize it's a personal thing). Target/trail gun, so not worried about concealment or printing...more interested in control and comfort. Some of the suggestions are just a bit out of my range (some way out) right now, after Christmas and all. Beauty stuff, and I'm sure worth every penny...but I've spent less on some guns than some of those shoes. Also, considering the altamont baleteur (over sized combat) as they have several wood choices and very reasonable, at around $65. Just VERY little info or reviews on those, and I know the Ahrends will be top notch. Hmmmm.

Thanks for good info on makes and such Pizza Bob! Great looking setup btw!
 
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I am going to say something heretical, too: I do not like full lug revolvers. I don't like the balance. That's one reason I don't have any 617s or 625s anymore. Stainless steel also adds to the problem due to the extra weight, so I prefer blued guns (and think they look better, too). JMO.

While I am not a big fan of the full under lug, except for maybe a pure target gun. Got a couple just because they came that way.

But, stainless steel (416) is actual sightly lighter than carbon steel (4140) . But, the weight difference is slight. 100 cu inches of 4140 weighs 28.2 # and 100 cu inches of 416 28#. 99.29% So is 2 guns were 100% identical and the blued gun weight 50 oz the stainless one would weight 49.6 oz. This is because 416 has 16% chrome which is slightly lighter than iron.

I have never measured 2 identical models like a 25 and a 625 to if they are diamentionly identical.
 
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over the last 35 years this is what I discovered: The larger and heavier the gun, the more surface you should have for contact of your hand on the grip. On my N-Frames 4" with lighter loads it makes less difference if the panels are smaller, p.e. I use a set of Ahrends Retro Banana on my 624 with .44 Spl target loads - for stouter loads the Hogue wooden grip w/o finger grooves or the Ahrends Retro Target give more control. On my 27-2 5" with .38 Spl. ammo the Ahrends Retro Target is fine, but when shooting .357 full house loads, I like the Hogue wooden grip w/o finger grooves and striped cap better (because it is longer at the bottom). I recently tried my neighbour's 629 5" with a Hogue rubber monogrip and then temporarily swapped the rubber grip for an old original S&W target grip (with a gap at the rear) - result was a far better control of the gun.
 
Made a decision

Gunar, that is one fine looking wheel gun. One to be proud of!

Daimler, good points. Thanks for your 30 years of insight. Since I'm newer to revolvers, wisdom like that is greatly appreciated. After shooting this 625 with stock grips...I felt the same thing. 5" full underlug barrel makes for a soft shooter in 45acp, compared to the magnums. But still felt like not enough in my hand for best balance.

Well, after much research, listening to you folks, and digging back to the archives, I decided on the Ahrends retro combats. Seemed to be the perfect idea for grip feel/control/comfort (from what I've read), plus the aesthetics I really crave (wood/finger grooves/round to square). I was so excited to order them up. Then I found out the only ones available now are maple (no offense cardboard). And darker woods are out 6 months!! Dealers say Kim is backordered at 300 pair right now. I kept looking at pictures of stainless wheel guns with maple shoes to try to get my brain to accept something other than a dark wood species. Different people like different things (ie: blondes, brunettes, redheads,) and you can't just switch that off. In the end, my brain won out and I decided I don't want maple or a 6 month wait. During my research, I kept coming back to Altamont's N frame round to square combats (they call the Bateleur style). Altamont's ebay side had a version not even on their site. "black walnut" (looks like their silver/black though) with the checkered panel and silver S&W medallion inlay. That should dress up my 625-6 a bit. Let's face it, they are somewhat austere and utilitarian looking compared to their pretty blued ancestors. I've read many very positive reviews regarding their fit, finish, performance...so thought I'd give them a try. About same price as retro targets. Few images attached from seller. I'll upload images with them on the 625 after I get them, as well as post how they feel and shoot. The retro targets will have to wait for now, but still want them for this gun or another. Thanks again for all the great feedback!
 

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Then I found out the only ones available now are maple (no offense cardboard). And darker woods are out 6 months!! Dealers say Kim is backordered at 300 pair right now. I kept looking at pictures of stainless wheel guns with maple shoes to try to get my brain to accept something other than a dark wood species. Different people like different things (ie: blondes, brunettes, redheads,) and you can't just switch that off.
Kim lost his wife last year and has been backordered since as she was a key member of his team. No need to worry about offending me. However, maple can be stained dark, so don't let that stop you next time. Here's a picture of stained maple boot grips from ebay auction. However, the staining and finishing would put you in the 6 month category, probably. Perhaps if you ordered them unfinished and stained and then finished them yourself, but that is a lot of work.
 

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To the OP:

I believe that you ought to try a set of Pachmayr Presentations, size SN-S. I believe that they are no longer made, but they are still around, usually in junk boxes, and not expensive. They are made for square butts, but will probably fit a round butt, especially if you fill up the space with crumpled Saran Wrap or something. Even if you don't like rubber, if you end up liking them, you'll know what shape and size are right, and you can look for that in wood. AFAIK, it is simply a classic Roper design.

The reason I believe that you may like this design is that I apparently have the same size hand as you, and I find the SN-S far and away the best design for N-frame SB revolvers.

Good luck.
 
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Man, that's way too pretty to shoot!

Thanks, but I gotta disagree with you on that one. I can't imagine how empty my life would be if I didn't shoot it fairly regularly. The truth is that it was shot before I got it (at the factory at least) and will most likely get shot after I am gone (pushing up daisies). I'll be darned if I am going to miss out on my chance to fully enjoy owning it. Besides I didn't go to the trouble of legally importing it to Denmark from back home in the states just to look at it. I would rather be waterboarded. :) That model 27-8 is a real sweet shooter, even sweeter than all of my old favorite pinned and recessed models.
 
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Gunar,
So glad to hear that beauty aint no safe queen! I shoot every gun in my safe (and carry many of them). I don't buy them, if I would be afraid to shoot them!
 
Cardboard,
Your stained grips are beautiful. I really considered buying the maple grips from ebay, stripping the clear, and re-staining and oiling. It would be considerable work/time...but not 6 months! I could use orange based chemical stripper probably to remove most of the clear...then very lightly sand with 320 to 600+ to get the rest off and smooth. In my experience (and I have a lot of wood working and staining experience), this may or may not come out nice. If the finish they used penetrated much into the maple (I realize maple is very hard), the new stain job could come out very splotchy and unprofessional. If I had to remove too much wood to obtain clean substrate for re-stain, I would change the shape and size slightly of probably one of the best grip profiles out there (not good). So I was afraid to try that. Unfinished maple would ideal, but probably just as long a wait. Chickened out on trying that, but having a bit of buyers remorse for not giving it a go. The more I look at your stainless guns with maple shoes...the more I like them.
 
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