GSR Question

[gb70840]

I have a new to me Model 14-2. Beautiful piece, great shooter!

I have been loading a Speer 158 gr LSWC, 3.4 gr. HP-38, CCI SPP, many times reloaded Starline brass. This has proved to be an accurate load from this gun, shooting 2-3" groups at 50 yds. from a Ransom rest.

The problem I am having is there is a lot of powder residue in the barrel and chambers. This GSR finds its way into the ejector shaft area (that may not be its real name, I'm kind of a newbee).

Anyway, I think that the GSR causes the extraction star to seat a little high which causes friction between the ejection star and the frame. The action goes from smooth as silk to thick as molasses in about 30 rounds.

It doesn't do this with commercial ammo. So am I loading too light? Should I try a different powder? Quit whining and clean every 30 rounds? What do you experts think?

Thanks!

GB.

 

[Jim Watson]

That is the case. Unburnt powder under the extractor can bind up a revolver in a hurry.

3.4 gr of W231 is only a little more than I use for a flush seated full wadcutter. With more case volume, you are running low pressures and incomplete combustion.

You can increase the load to whatever the current book says is factory equivalent for a 158 gr SWC and pay the price in recoil.

You can load wadcutters instead of semiwadcutters.

You can be sure to point the barrel nearly straight up when you eject the empties so most of the unburnt powder falls out with the brass.

You could change to a "cleaner" powder like N310, Clays, Solo 1000, or WST.

Or quit whining and clean every 30 shots.

When I was shooting a revolver in IPSC and IDPA, I carried a chamber brush and a toothbrush with me and cleaned the cylinder at least every other stage.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Get a bore snake. They are the berries for a competitive shooter.

Now, about your load, it is smack dab in the middle of the data for the weight bullet you are shooting according to the Hodgdon Data website.

W231/HP-38 doesn't like to be loaded at the bottom of it's data. It isn't the only powder like that either. AA#5 is one for sure and so is Unique. Loading either one of those light and you are going to have the problems you do.

Suggestion coupled with a question: What kind of shooting do you want to do? and: Get a different powder for super light target loads. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of W231/HP-38, just not at the bottom of it's data.

Do you have a chronograph? If not, make it the next thing on your list of things to buy for your hobby. It will tell you what you already guessed, too light of a charge for your equipment. Wide spreads and low velocity will be what you see.

Here is a test you can do; find data for W231/HP-38 that uses your bullet but for +P performance. Load 30 rounds of it and go to the range. Check your firearm. I'd lay a dollar to a donut that your unburnt powder goes away!

Let us know!

 

[Alk8944]

How are you extracting fired cases, by holding the gun muzzle down and picking them out with your fingers? This is common to newer shooters, and sometimes more experienced ones.

Instead, place the gun in your left hand, open the cylinder while placing the two center fingers through the frame and around the open cylinder. Swing the muzzle straight up and then push the extractor with your left thumb letting the fired cases either fall on the ground, bench, or catch them in your right hand. This way the un-burned powder in the cases stays there instead of falling out over the cylinder and under the extractor!

Doesn't hurt to have a toothbrush along, but handling the gun as described will prevent most problems to begin with.

 

[gb70840]

GSR Problem

I am using this gun for Bullseye, so balancing accuracy and recoil are important. I will be sure to keep the barrel pointed straight up when ejecting. Check on the chrono, bore snake, and tooth brush.

I use WST for .45 ACP, so maybe I will work up a .38 load with that.

Thanks for the help!

GB.

 

[Skip Sackett]

WST would be a good choice!

I am using this gun for Bullseye, so balancing accuracy and recoil are important. I will be sure to keep the barrel pointed straight up when ejecting. Check on the chrono, bore snake, and tooth brush.

I use WST for .45 ACP, so maybe I will work up a .38 load with that.

Thanks for the help!

GB.

What ALK says is the ONLY way to unload a revolver, ESPECIALLY when you are shooting competition, period.

For combat shooting with a revolver, and bullet type doesn't matter if you practice, I know first hand, you will get good enough to move while doing this and not even look at the gun while reloading. A quick peek is all you will need and your trained muscles will go through the motions by themselves.

I may need to make a video of doing this or look for one on youtube.

Here is how I do it: (Assuming you are right handed!)

While firing and counting shots, on the last shot, with it still firmly gripped, reach up with the right thumb and push the cylinder release forward; at the same time moving your left hand forward so the two index fingers are on the right side of the cylinder, with your thumb still on the release, push with your fingers from right to left and "catch" the cylinder in your palm, thumb over the top, hold it open in that fashion while your right hand drops to your belt for a speed loader, your thumb on the left hand will need to move to the ejector rod during this exchange and push the empties out with the muzzle raised.

You know what, this is a lot harder to tell than to do! I think I will do a video and post it or maybe someone else already has and we need to post it here.

Anyone?

 

[Skip Sackett]

YouTube - Revolver Reloading
Not everyone that shoots a revolver has this much "twang" in their lingo though!

 

[gboling]

What ALK says is the ONLY way to unload a revolver, ESPECIALLY when you are shooting competition, period.


I would respectfully dispute this method of reloading and the use of HKS speed loaders. HKS speed loaders require holding the cylinder with one hand to prevent it’s turning while turning the knob on the speedloader with the other hand. Safariland speedloaders require only that they be pressed against the extractor star to release the cartridges and do not necessitate changing hands with the revolver.

My preferred method of reloading an S&W revolver is to never change hands with the revolver. When all chambers have been fired I retain the revolver in my right hand, point the muzzle up and press the cylinder release forward with my right thumb. I reach under the revolver, palm open and with my left middle and left ring finger I press the cylinder open and depress the extractor with my left thumb. With my left hand I remove the Safariland speedloader from it’s holder on the left side of my belt (unless the gun is carried in a cross draw holster when my speed loader would be on the right side of my buckle). Point the gun down and Insert the cartridges into the cylinder. Press the speedloader against the cylinder star, releasing the cartridges into their chambers. At this point I drop the speedloader, close the cylinder with my left hand, resume a two hand shooting stance and resume firing. This can easily be done without taking my eyes off of my target.

This method would offer the same effect on the release of powder residue and spent casings as the method suggested by ALK and Smith Crazy, however I find it much faster, and without losing sight of my target, which may be moving.

 

[Skip Sackett]

I am respectufully corrected!

What ALK says is the ONLY way to unload a revolver, ESPECIALLY when you are shooting competition, period.

This method would offer the same effect on the release of powder residue and spent casings as the method suggested by ALK and Smith Crazy, however I find it much faster, and without losing sight of my target, which may be moving.

Well, I respectfully receive the correction friend!

I went to school last night and saw a couple of other changes with moon clips. They really surprised me! I do like HKS speed loaders but that is what I started with. The Safari Land ones release on pressure with no turning which does make sense.

At any rate, I was hasty in my previous opinion. That method has worked for me for quite a few years. Our principles are the same here, muzzle up when dumping spent rounds.

As a side note, when cleaning your revolver use no oil on the ejector rod. I knew a fellow that used brake cleaner on his just to make sure it was dry. Even on a blued gun. Keep that part of the firearm dry. Powder won't stay there if it's not wet.

FWIW