Gun solvent

I might also suggest that anyone mixing up a batch of Ed's Red definitely leave out the Acetone! Acetone will not be kind to plastics, wood and other misc finishes that are around or near firearms. I can tell you my Wife has left her mark on furniture and counter tops with her nail polish remover which is Acetone. I have a can of it in my work shop and it will eat through my Nitrile gloves in a matter of seconds. I strongly dislike Acetone and only use it when absolutely necessary.

The mix with the acetone is best used only in the bore and not left on wood , plastic or the new S&W finishes , it will affect them. Wipe it off after cleaning or leave it out altogether . The ATF and Kerosene make a good general purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative (CLP) all by itself.
If you use the strong stuff just be careful, it's an old school bore cleaner, predating WWII and designed to cut powder and copper fouling in military rifles , not be gentle , enviromentaly friendly and green. That stuff hadn't been invented back then.
Gary
 
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Mineral spirits
Odorless. Easy peasy, not much smell, and pretty cheap.

The price of kerosene is outrageous in my area, and it used to be cheap at the pump. Locally, those days are over.

However, this has been discussed all over the place since day one of guns. Search for threads and you't find all the opinions in the world.
 
I've been using the Hoppes Elite cleaner for over a year. I don't shoot as much these days and therefore do not clean as much, but I don't allow my guns to get really dirty before cleaning either. The Elite cleaner has worked well for me, and I like the fact that I don't have to worry about getting it on my skin. I still keep that to a minimum and wash up immediately after use. This cleaner may not be as aggressive as some, but that's OK for me.

I generally swab the bore with a wet patch first of all, then allow it to sit and soak until I finish the rest of my cleaning activity. Last thing I do is to run a brush through the bore two or three times, all the way through and back out again. I then use a bore size round patch pusher to push clean dry patches through the bore one way. I usually catch the patch and turn it over and push it through again. Then I get a clean patch and do it over. Usually, I get a clean patch by the fourth trip through. The Elite cleaner looks and feels a bit "soapy". It has little odor, though I never minded the #9 smell. I have had no negative issues with the Elite cleaner. I may not be as anal as some when cleaning, but I like to be finished with a clean dry patch through the bore with no sign of fouling on it. I usually save that last clean patch or two for use as the initial swab patch through the bore next time. Guess I am unwilling to throw them away till I've gotten my money's worth out of them! For me, I like the Elite Cleaner just fine. There is cheaper stuff, but it works for me, it's in a handy container that I can spray with the pump in areas where that works best. I usually buy the larger size pump sprayer, and pour some of the liquid into a small squeeze bottle for applications to my patches or maybe onto a tooth brush style cleaning brush. I recommend it!
 
I've used Hoppes #9 for years without issues. I'm also using RG17. I got a sample bottle of the stuff at a gun show and found that it works real well.
 
I think what Amp was referring to is potential damage to nickel finishes. If the finish has been scratched, the Hoppes or any penetrating cleaner can get under the nickel and cause flaking.
 
I use Hoppes No. 9 for solvent on everything EXCEPT these very recent vintage S&W revolvers.

I use Break Free CLP as lube.

On those couple of guns with the "fragile finish" that S&W seems to be putting on its revolvers these days, I simply use the Break Free for both chores (cleaner and lube).
 
I use Break Free CLP to clean and lube.

I currently believe it is the BEST solution available for the job.

How did I come to this concrete opinion? My department provides it to me for FREE to clean and lube my weapons....So the FREE makes it the BEST for me :) Not much help to you I know.....But you did ask.
 
Hoppes #9 Synthetic ?

I've tried a lot of different solvents but my normal are Hoppes #9 and I use Butches Bore shine to clean my barrels. Both are excellent cleaners !!

I picked up a bottle a few months ago of Hoppes #9 SYNTHETIC. It's not as strong as Hoppes #9 and states it's made for more modern firearms and can be used on plastic. When I get back from the range or any other time I clean my firearms I pour a small amount out of the container and into small plastic cups. Both Hoppes #9 and Butches will eat the bottom of the container after it sits in it for a while, the Hoppes synthetic will not. I've not used the synthetic that often. Does anyone know if this product is OK for some of the new finishes ??
 
I thought my guns were clean

I use J-B bore cleaner paste followed up with KleenBore #10 copper cutter. I used Hoppes #9 for years until a local gunsmith turned me on to J-Bs. He told me to clean the bore with whatever method/cleaner I usually use, then run a patch of J-Bs down it. I found out I was leaving a lot of residue, as indicated by the J-Bs patch turning black with lead/power fowling. As for Hoppes #9 smell, I wish they offered a car air freshener soaked in that stuff LOL:D.
 
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I like the Hoppes elite....cleans way faster and seems cleaner. I use very few swabs now compared to clp
 
Never use acetone around a car battery. Acetone and sulfuric acid combine to make a very unstable high explosive.
 
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