Hammer Shroud grips *update* for a Model 3 DA?

[deadin]

I just checked my .44 Frontier and the hammer does not rebound when the trigger is forward. (Same with a .38 DA 2nd Model)
However, a slight pull on the trigger sets it back to the safety notch.

I have several European "cheapies" that depend on having a friction spring on the cylinder axis pin instead of the complicated lockwork needed to keep the cylinder from rotating when the hammer is on the safety notch.

 

[glowe]

I just checked my .44 Frontier and the hammer does not rebound when the trigger is forward.

Interesting - I checked with the Chicoine book on Antique Firearms and find that the NM3 SA is supposed to have a rebound hammer, except for target guns, but there is no mention whether or not the DA had a rebound hammer. Also, the hammers are totally different design. Still, I can see no way to damage a firing pin by opening or closing the gun? I tried it on my 38 DAs and my 38 SAs and the firing pin stays well out of the way when opening or closing the gun.

I also can't see how any cartridge would be accidently fired upon closing unless someone is holding the hammer back? I have heard the precaution before, but never heard of an actual situation where a gun went off by this means. I guess that I must have often done this without incident, since I cannot remember pulling the hammer back before closing the action of a top-break. Now dropping a gun on its hammer is a different story and I would assume that is entirely possible.

 

[Watchdog]

All that said, it doesn't fit quite right. I think the holes for the (whatever you call that bit at the bottom of the frame that keeps the stocks on) pin doesn't seem to be deep enough.

It's called the grip pin.

The tops fit great, but it doesn't completely fit over the butt of the gun. I think I just need to deepen the holes, but before I started messing with them...

You know, I think before I started messing with the grips, I'd remove a bit of metal from one or both sides of the grip pin. You can always get another pin if you didn't do it right, but you couldn't replace those grips. You can get the pins at Brownell's for a couple of bucks. Or even just make one. I've replaced a couple (one gun didn't have one at all, the other one had a broken pin), and all you do is just tap in the replacement.

 

[Modified]

Thanks, I was thinking with the way S&W named things that it would be named something crazy like "Stock Flange" or "Stock Centrification Stud".

As to modifying the pin and not the grips... I figure it's just a matter of deepening the holes a bit, but that aside (because I really value your opinion on the matter, given your experience) do you genuinely value these grips that much more then the originality of the gun?

I find that surprising. I mean, I thought these grips were cool but if you think they are really that special maybe I aught to offer them in trade to someone who really appreciates them more then I do. I only have a few top breaks, it's the Hand Ejectors which keep my interest mostly, so not being Hand Ejector I find them fascinating, but clearly not as fascinating as you do.

 

[mnrivrat]

Stock pin

If anyone is concerned about shortening the original pin it is easy enough to remove it and replace it with a shorter one for these grips. Then set the original pin aside in a safe place . No harm no foul.

 

[model3sw]

That's the first set of grips I've ever seen like that of that vintage.

 

[Askeladden]

I'm guessing they are competition grips.