having a problem with M&P trigger, and it isn't the same one you've seen 1000 times

[-Dirt]

having a problem with M&P trigger, and it isn't the same one you've seen 1000 times

Okay, I'm new here, so Hello. Now that's out of the way.

I speculate that my S&W M&P 9 trigger arm lobe makes contact with a machined portion (Which I am pointing out in the picture with a bore brush) of the slide, causing a click in trigger WELL before the trigger wall. Here is a video of the gun while assembled: http://youtu.be/NnVxV9FC_Gk

here is a video of the gun with the slide off, The sound of the actual click is coming from the 'loop' at the end of the trigger bar (that moves the sear cam) moving back into it's intended position once the slightest pressure is put on the trigger. This is because the trigger bar itself is being pushed away from the mag well / sear block housing whenever the slide moves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPfDBFr9x3U

The lobe has obvious wear to it, as in a gouge and some marring visible in the picture below.

Has anyone had a similar issue? Is it something worth calling Smith over? I have about 500 rounds through the gun, and the click is felt EVERY TIME I slingshot the slide into battery.

Some will say install an APEX and be done with it, but I'm not so certain that the issue will be resolved.

 

[CarrieC]

-Dirt that is some serious wear on the trigger bar. Only 500 rounds something is definitely wrong. I would be talking with CS. Good luck.

 

[robkarrob]

In the first video I would think the "click" is the trigger safety (top rear of the trigger) is catching on the frame, not the trigger bar tab making the noise. You could be pulling a little high on the trigger to cause that. If that is the issue, file off a little off the trigger safety lever where it is contacting the frame.

The second video is the reset, the slide cycles back pushing the trigger bar loop out from under the sear. Then when the trigger is slightly released the loop snaps back under the sear for the next pull. That makes the gun a semi-auto action, the trigger has to be released a little to get the reset so that the next trigger pull will allow the striker to be released.

The wear to the top corner of the striker blocker safety tab, on the trigger bar, is normal wear.

Bob

 

[-Dirt]

I'm almost positive the lobe itself is bent or just isn't to spec after being stamped out after looking at it more extensively. I'm going to mess with the striker safety lobe on the arm tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[teqnikool]

Hey Dirt:

I had a trigger problem the gunsmith referred to as a 'gritty trigger'. It was recommended that an Apex kit could correct the situation, but the Smith and Wesson customer service people tell me that it will void your warranty. I returned my M&P over 3 weeks ago for repair, and it looks like I may be waiting awhile. Good luck with this problem, and let us know how it is finally resolved.

 

[Prasko]

The second video is NOT the reset, that is him engaging the trigger, not releasing it.

I'm going to say the trigger bar has a bad bend somewhere.

The trigger bar should be re-engaging the sear on release, I.E. the reset. Not during the initial trigger pull.

Humor me Dirt.

Fully pull the trigger, while it's fully pulled, push the trigger bar over to disengage the sear, and then release the trigger.

When that is done, does the trigger bar reset?

If you can make a video of it.

 

[triggerb]

I would pull the trigger assembly out and check every part in that area for issues. The trigger bar should sit pretty snug inside the sear assembly and it appears that trigger bar is slipping everywhere along the sear, this could be from something not connected properly at the trigger itself or the bar itself being warped.

 

[Rastoff]

Prasko is correct, what the OP is experiencing is not the reset.

I think robkarrob is also correct that the first click is the trigger safety catching on the frame. This is not that uncommon. It is also the simplest solution. The simplest solution should always be checked first.

Here's a little video on how the M&P trigger works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_RoDAOQGnQ

It demonstrates what that "lobe" is and how it works. Also, -Dirt, I think you're pushing the trigger bar too far to the right. The reset lobe doesn't push it that far. It shouldn't be getting caught to the right like you show in the second video.

I still think the trigger safety is the most likely culprit.

 

[triggerb]

^That only applies to the trigger on an M&P with mag disconnect safety. Although OPs video is pretty shaky it doesn't appear to have the MDS. The trigger bar on these models do not shift over, it should rest inline with the sear, and a small extension on the bar will sit inside the sear block housing as a guide. Just as with anything it's not easy to diagnose unless the machine is right in front of you, but to me it looks like the trigger bar simply needs to be reinserted correctly.

 

[shawn mccarver]

it's not easy to diagnose unless the machine is right in front of you, but to me it looks like the trigger bar simply needs to be reinserted correctly.

If true, it begs the question of just WHY it was inserted incorrectly and HOW that happened.

 

[Rastoff]

^That only applies to the trigger on an M&P with mag disconnect safety.

This is incorrect. As I explain in the video, once a mag is inserted, the triggers all work the same. I only used this gun to demonstrate how the mag disconnect works. Without the mag disconnect, the trigger bar just stays to the left and under the sear until shot. The cam still moves it out from under the sear after the shot. If it didn't, the sear would never reset the striker.

The trigger bar cannot be installed incorrectly and the gun still function.

 

[triggerb]

I didn't know that and didn't have sound on in the video. In OPs lower video I can't really get a good enough look at whats going on. I just believe the issues lies within the trigger bar assembly whether its warped or something. What leads you to believe its the thumb safety though? To my knowledge the thumb safety physically stops the trigger from contacting the sear just with a steel blocker.

 

[robkarrob]

A video with the slide off and in slow motion would help, or redo the video with very slow trigger pulls. The video action is too fast to really see or know what is happening. Make another short video keeping the gun and camera very still and show very slow trigger pulls when you get near the break, so we can see what is happening. Then move in for a close up in the area of the trigger bar loop and sear lobe contact area, again with slow trigger pulls.

Bob

 

[Rastoff]

I didn't know that and didn't have sound on in the video.

I'm glad I was able to help you learn something.

What leads you to believe its the thumb safety though?

Nothing. Look back at what I posted and you'll see that it's the trigger safety we're talking about.

Maybe this will help:

This is a close up of the trigger. The red arrow is pointing to the most likely cause of this issue, the trigger safety. That little tab, if not sized or pulled properly, will catch on the frame and make the click the OP is talking about.

 

[-Dirt]

I can't thank you all enough for your help, I really do appreciate it.

1) I know for a fact it isn't the trigger safety.

(pardon the terribly formatted sentence below in advance)

2) I wholeheartedly believe that the marring on the lobe that depresses the striker safety, caused by cam on the slide designed to push said lobe/ trigger bar thus removing the trigger loop from underneath the sear, is the culprit.

I can't help but think that the part out of spec is the striker safety lobe on the trigger bar, and I have a suspicion that it is bent inward towards the mag well, creating the heavy gouge on it from the first couple times it was fired.

Since it would be bent too far toward the mag well, it would mean that the trigger bar would be pushed too far away from the mag well upon cycling a round, and I'm left with that initial click from putting the slightest pressure on the trigger, thus resetting it to its normal position.

On another forum I had a few suggestions to send it back to Smith, but I'm not about to be out of a gun for over a month when A) it doesn't hinder the operation of the firearm, it was merely an annoyance, and B) I can buy a new trigger bar for $17.

 

[Rastoff]

OK, you could just bend the bar a little and see if the problem goes away.

You could send it to S&W. Most of the time it takes about 2 weeks to get it back.