HELP! Brand new 686+ 3" locked up - cylinder release sticking foward

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triple-tap-FL

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Hello all,

Today, I purchased a 686+ 3" 3-5-7 revolver. None of the local shops in my area had one in stock for several months, and I finally received one that I tracked down.

However, when I went to the FFL to pickup the gun, the cylinder release button is sticking in the forward position and making the cylinder incredibly hard to open.

I also cannot cock the hammer or even pull the trigger for DA UNLESS I manually hold the cylinder release button to the rear-most position on the frame.

It almost feels as though the spring is in backwards on the cylinder release.

Is this possible? is this a common issue? The cylinder spins freely, and the ejector rod is tight and appears unbent.

I know that I can send to S&W, but I was hoping this is an easy fix that will allow me to shoot the gun over Memorial Day weekend.

Video of the issue: YouTube

Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Also may be the center pin is not properly fitted being too long in length. 951 can correct me if I'm wrong. In that case it would need to be sent in for fitting.
 
It is a brand new revolver. Only test fired at the factory. The extractor rod and the 'star' are completely tight against the cylinder as they are supposed to be. The issue appears to be with the cylinder release and the pin in the frame that pushes on the ejector rod when you push the cylinder release forward.

The problem is that the cylinder release is being held in the forward position.
 
This video shows the issue:

Deleted to add Youtube link in original post.
 
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Odd. I had an issue similar to this on my old Model 51 and thought I had a serious issue until I started tinkering. Finally got the cylinder open and figured out that the ejector rod was loose. Tightened it up and it's smooth as butter now.
 
I have seen issues in the past with loose or bent ejector rods, but never something where the cylinder release springs forward and stays there, locking up the gun.
 
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Only reason I mentioned it is because that was my exact symptom as well.

I know this probably doesn't help you much.
 
Understood, and I appreciate it. I think the real issue is that the spring in the cylinder release is holding it forward. If there is a way to fix that issue, the gun should function as intended... I am just trying to avoid a trip to S&W until after Memorial Day weekend.
 
If the cylinder isn't going ALL the way closed, it won't kick the cyl. release back. The center pin is what pushes it back when the cylinder closes. It seems like either the center pin is stuck forward or the cylinder isn't closing completely.
 
Take a look at the front detent pin under the barrel. if it has sharp edges, it can hinder cylinder release by binding on the recess in the front of the ejector rod. I've had this happen a couple of times. To remedy it, I removed the pin and lightly polished the face of it. I also checked the ejector rod recess and lightly polished the sharp edge. I emphasize: LIGHTLY polish if it turns out not to be one of the other possibilities listed here. Also check the rear end of the center pin that locks into the cylinder lock/release hole in the blast shield/breach face. The shoulder on the rear of the center pin can be slightly polished as well.
 
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Check to see if the center pin will plunge freely in and out of the extractor. It should be free to move in and out of the cylinder assy (extractor face), but is also under considerable spring pressure. The center pin or center pin spring may be damaged, or there could be old lubricant in there that has caused it to seize.
 
armorer951 said:
Check to see if the center pin will plunge freely in and out of the extractor. It should be free to move in and out of the cylinder assy (extractor face), but is also under considerable spring pressure. The center pin or center pin spring may be damaged, or there could be old lubricant in there that has caused it to seize.
Click to expand...


Video of the center pin / cylinder release issue. I did the best I could with a phone and one hand.

YouTube

I added to the link to the original post as well.
 
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If it were meant to be spring loaded forward, it would be constantly preventing the ejector from seating in the center-pin hole. In a Colt, yes. But I don't believe this is the case for a S&W.

Also, the gun only functions (trigger cocked, rotate cylinder, DA) if I am manually holding the cylinder release to the REAR of the gun.
 
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It's spring-loaded forward, the center pin pushes it backwards. The center pin pushes harder, so with the cylinder closed all should be to the back.
 
You can't cock any S&W revolver with the cylinder open unless you hold the cylinder release back. The cylinder release is spring loaded forward. It is pushed back by the cylinder pin when the cylinder closes.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 
Gotcha. Thank you elm_creek_smith.


So the center pin needs to be pushed further back... which means an issue with the ejector rod being too short?

It guess I will need to compare a WORKING 686 with mine to see how far out that little nub on the center of the extractor star sticks out.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 
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It does not function at all with the cylinder closed unless I hold the cylinder release back to the rear of the frame.

I think the issue is that the nub in the middle of the star may have been damages / tip broke off, and this is locking up the gun.
 
With the cylinder open, the center pin should stick out the back, and you should be able to push it in, and have it spring back. Does it do this?
 
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Send it back...don't sweat not being able to shoot it over the long weekend they'll be many more times soon to use it...patience young man.

S&W has excellent customer service but I would emphasize in a polite and professional manner your disappointment over S&W's shoddy workmanship if there is truly a problem.

I've been a proud owner of S&W revolvers for 40+ years...the darn smoothest double actions ever made!
 
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38SPL HV said:
Send it back...don't sweat not being able to shoot it over the long weekend they'll be many more times soon to use it...patience young man.

S&W has excellent customer service but I would emphasize in a polite and professional manner your disappointment over S&W's shoddy workmanship if there is truly a problem.

I've been a proud owner of S&W revolvers for 40+ years...the darn smoothest double actions ever made!
Click to expand...

I too have owned and trusted my life to S&W revolvers while on the job. Send it in, be patient and it will come back right.
 
I don't see anything wrong on the video. When you close the cylinder release latch will be pushed back by ejector rod allowing you to cock the hammer, which apparently you can do when you pull release latch back simulating closed cylinder.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
triple-tap-FL, I made a quick video of a similar vintage S&W so you can see what a "working" one looks like, and in the video I point out a couple additional items you could check.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90iiZDjosuU[/ame]
 
Also, check the lug under the barrel. Use the tip of a small screw driver. Is it springing in and out? Does thumb piece and bolt move back and forth smoothly with thumb pressure with cylinder open. It should. The center pin in ejector rod tube should stick out the back about 1/8" when open and when pressed flush to the center of ratchet the front of it should be long enough to be just past flush with the tube.

I would disassemble the gun bolt, its slot, spring and plunger and check its for smoothness if it does notwork smoothly with cylinder open.

I would remove ejector rod and check it, the springs and the spring collar.

You can damage your revolver doing these incorrectly. Either get a gunsmith to do it or study up. They are not really had to do, d but, you must do it right.
 
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Looking at the video, the nose of the bolt appears to be extending slightly beyond the frame when it is in the forward position instead of being flush with the frame. This would push the cylinder center pin too far forward resulting in the nose of the bolt rubbing on the back of the extractor star causing difficulty opening the cylinder. Just my opinion.
 
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