Help finding hammer assembly for Reg Police

[Bug Splat]

I inherited a 4 inch RP in 38 S&W. The pistol is in good condition but the hammer sear looks like it was bubba-smithed by someone using a cinder block and does not work in single action (hammer does not lock back). I'd really like to restore this pistol, buy some reloading dies for it and make it a fun range gun for the kids and kids at heart .

I need to buy a new hammer assembly but I can not figure out what part number to buy. No one lists parts for the I-frame but from what I have been reading the old J-frames were just elongated I-frames. True? Are the hammer assemblies the same? Can someone help me figure out which part to buy?

Thanks

 

[DCWilson]

I inherited a 4 inch RP in 38 S&W. The pistol is in good condition but the hammer sear looks like it was bubba-smithed by someone using a cinder block and does not work in single action (hammer does not lock back). I'd really like to restore this pistol, buy some reloading dies for it and make it a fun range gun for the kids and kids at heart .

I need to buy a new hammer assembly but I can not figure out what part number to buy. No one lists parts for the I-frame but from what I have been reading the old J-frames were just elongated I-frames. True? Are the hammer assemblies the same? Can someone help me figure out which part to buy?

Thanks

Welcome to the forum. If yours is a prewar RP (serial number under 55000, to use a round number), any prewar I-frame hammer with a hammer-mounted firing pin should serve your purpose. I see those for sale from time to time on Gunbroker. Even if it says "for prewar .32 Hand Ejector," that's the hammer you want.

The only prewar hammers you don't want are prewar I-frame hammers without a hammer nose, because those are for .22/32s. (But if you come across one of those, let me know; I am looking for one.)

Don't hesitate to show pics of your gun. There are lots of RP fans here.

 

[Green Frog]

David Chicoine had one listed on his website the last time I looked. There was also one on GunBroker (just use the search term "Regulation Police") the last time I looked there.

Froggie

 

[Hondo44]

The hammer sear (Hammer fly) is for double action only. So if you have a SA issue it's either the hammer SA notch or the trigger sear.
Something to consider: have you thought about just properly stoning the SA notch on your hammer?

 

[Bug Splat]

Thanks guys for the help! So happy I finally have some answers to this revolver. Its been sitting in the safe waiting for me to get some time to work on it.

The SN is 25682. As you can see from the pictures, the "hammer notch" (thanks Hondo) looks like its been filed off. Not sure if the goal was to make a nicer trigger or just remove the SA feature all together. The trigger sear looks untouched and in good condition. Worse comes to worse I could weld up the hammer notch, re-cut it and harden it but thats a lot of work and I have no reference to work from except pictures online. I'd much rather just buy the assembly and do the little work needed to fit it. I do a good amount of smithing on semi-auto pistol but I'm never fixed a revolver. I don't think a 70-100 year old family revolver is a good place to start

 

[Bug Splat]

Can anyone tell me which one of these I need?

SMITH & WESSON | 32 HAND EJECT
Hammer Complete, Blued (1903)
Hammer Complete, Blued (1903) Gun Parts | 1364630 | Numrich Gun Parts

SMITH & WESSON | 32 HAND EJECT
Hammer Complete, Blued (1905)
Hammer Complete, Blued (1905) Gun Parts | 1364670 | Numrich Gun Parts

 

[Hondo44]

I see what you mean, there's nothing of the hammer toe shaped like the original and no SA notch at all. Your gun was 1st made in 1917 and the serial # indicates a vintage likely in the 1920s.
I'm looking at the hammer of a 32 Model 1903, 5th change in my hand now which was made up to 1917. But it's almost identical to yours. The difference is two little side bushings mine has that were eliminated on later models and have nothing to do with function. I believe it would work fine in your gun.

These Numrich descriptions are notoriously vague and there isn't even a photo.

The Model 1903 you listed is the 32 I frame which should be just like mine and as I said interchange with your 38 S&W I frame.

The 1905 Model is a K frame and most likely is referring to the 32-20 Model; not what you want.

I would not order thru the internet w/o talking to someone there 1st to get some insight on which vintage Mod 1903 hammer they have. They are good about taking returns back.

I'll also send you a PM with another supplier to check with.

 

[DCWilson]

I get the feeling that functionality is more important than finish authenticity here, but I still want to point out that a "blued" hammer would be a refinished hammer. Original conditional hammers are case colored, like the modified hammer seen in your photos.

If they sell just the hammer body without the add-on parts, you can move your stirrup and DA sear/spring from the damaged hammer to the new one.

 

[Green Frog]

Bug Splat, you are getting advice from two of the most knowledgeable people I know with regards to I-frames. The only other person I would invite into the circle at this point would perhaps be David Chicoine, since he is both expert on the guns and sells the parts to fix them. As Hondo44 said, buying parts off the Internet is a little chancy and what you get from GPC/Numrich may involve a lot of back and forth with poor communications (my personal experience here.) If you talk to DC on the phone and tell him what you have told us, that should go a long way toward solving your problem. If he doesn't have the part in stock, he may well know who to refer you to, or if the parts source H44 mentioned doesn't work out, I would start the rounds through David Clements, Larry Poppert, and whoever else advertises old parts. I'm pretty sure that guy on GB has the right hammer for you, though... you might want to check with him. He lists as Stoneyburke and is showing that hammer right now.

Froggie

 

[Bug Splat]

Thanks so much guys for all the help. I think I'll stay away from Numrich and work with the people on the list Hondo sent me.

I would rather not get a blued part but at this point I'm grasping for anything that will fit. If I did buy a blued part I'd strip it and restore the original heat treated finish. This pistol was 1 of 6 that I inherited from my wife's grandfather. I have been cleaning them up enough to look like 70+ year old guns but still mechanically function. I have more than enough nice modern firearms so a collection of older firearms that look the part is the goal.