help needed

[moonsterman]

I am not well versed in older (pre 1960 ) S&W revolvers. I am wanting a top break revolver in 32 long for CCW what model should I be looking for? Price? I like old things mainly because I am old and would appreciate any and all info dealing with this

thanks in advance ....Jay

 

[kscharlie]

There are no top break revolvers chambered in 32 long. They were only chambered in either .32 S&W (short) or .38 S&W. If you really want a revolver chambered in .32 S&W Long, you will have to obtain a .32 Hand Ejector. They are all 6 shot revolvers with the swing out cylinder. You should be able to pick one up that is in good shape for $400 - $500. If you truly have a desire for a top break, you would be looking for a "newer" .32 Safety Hammerless New Departure, 3rd Model, sold between 1909 to 1937.

I wish you well in your decision making and search.

 

[moonsterman]

Thank you sir .....this is why I said I have zero info on pre 1960 revolvers , I did find a 1992 model 632 in H&R mag that might fit the bill?? I own 33 revolvers all but 1 made b4 1990 . I find the hunt as fun as the capture

 

[Hondo44]

And the .32s are all only 5 shot.

I have a 32 Safety Hammerless 3rd Model, "New Departure``, from 1937 with 2" barrel. The 3" and 3 1/2" barrel versions are easier to find and cheaper. If you'd be happy with a little finish wear, you could likely find one under $400 that's mechanically sound. It's a neat gun. With the steel quality of 1937, I've often wondered if the chambers could be reamed for the 32 Long. The .32 chamber length is .95", not long enough for the .32 Long with a standard bullet. But with a wadcutter bullet extending not longer than .245" passed the case mouth it would fit in the cylinder.

However, with no .32 Long Top Break option available, and since you wanted the more powerful .32 Long, you might consider stepping up to .38 S&W (not .38 Spl.) There's 5 models available with the 5th Model, the last made from1907 to 1940.

But I consider my .38 S&W Perfected Model Top Break with 3 1/4" barrel, 1909-1920, the epitome of break top development as did S&W, hence the name "Perfected Model". It has the superior action of the .32 Hand Ejector I frame, thumb cyl release button left side frame, and the same small I frame size. So it has a double Locking system, the top break latch and the cylinder release on the left side of the frame. This gained its favor because police that used the earlier top break revolvers complained that a "bad guy" could grab the revolver top break latch, open it, and render it unshootable.

This a not mine, it's a 4"


Compared to .38 DA Top Break Hammerless size, 5" barrels

 

[Hondo44]

If you don't have to have a top break, the .32 Long I frame Hand Ejector is my recommendation. Right after WWII they introduced it with a 2" barrel:


Pre war models made from 1896 to 1940 numbered over 530,000 and easy to find, and under $300 depending on condition as always.


POST WAR .32 HAND EJECTOR & REGULATION POLICE MODEL examples of each of the post war evolutionary models with evolutionary changes briefly described. These are harder to find, better condition, and higher priced generally.

LEFT SIDE TOP:
.32 HE Model 1903 (2nd Model) - 5th Change, pre-war I frame, 3 ¼” produced Oct. 16, 1913.

LEFT, starting 2ND & 3rd from TOP:

.32 Regulation Police Transitional Post war I Frame, rebated sq butt, with leaf spring, Rd sight, 3 ¼”, 6 screw, ‘double pinch’ thumb piece, smooth trigger, c. 1949;

.32 HE Pure post war 1ST VARIATION-Improved I Frame w/coil spring, rd butt, rd sight, 2”, 5 screw, ‘single pinch’ thumb piece, c. Mar 1952, steel stock medallions, grooved trigger, bottom. This version of the I frame has the same features as the early round sight Baby J/Chiefs.


RIGHT SIDE TOP:

.32 HE 2ND VARIATION-Improved I frame w/ramp sight & barrel rib, rd butt, (became the Model 30 which ended with the 30-1 in 1976), 3”, 5 screw, 2nd style flat latch shipped late 1952, top;

.32 R.P. Model of 1953 New I frame sq butt, (the true Pre Model 31), 3”, 4 screw, 2nd style flat latch, c. 1954, next;

.32 R.P. Target Transitional I frame, #657298 rebated sq butt, 4”, 6 screw, 4th (final type) thumb piece, one of the 196 anachronisms from 1957 only, next;

.32 R.P. J frame sq butt, Model 31-1 (which ended with the Mod 31-3 in 1991), 3”, 3 screw, 1980, bottom.

 

[cgt4570]

And the .32s are all only 5 shot.

I have a 32 Safety Hammerless 3rd Model, "New Departure``, from 1937 with 2" barrel. The 3" and 3 1/2" barrel versions are easier to find and cheaper. If you'd be happy with a little finish wear, you could likely find one under $400 that's mechanically sound. It's a neat gun. With the steel quality of 1937, I've often wondered if the chambers could be reamed for the 32 Long. The .32 cylinder lengths are just long enough with .030" to spare. It's only a 5 shot and it's not easy to find .32 S&W ammo.

However, with no .32 Long Top Break option available, and since you wanted the more powerful .32 Long, you might consider stepping up to .38 S&W (not .38 Spl.) There's 5 models available with the 5th Model, the last made from1907 to 1940.

But I consider my .38 S&W Perfected Model Top Break with 3 1/4" barrel, 1909-1920, the epitome of break top development as did S&W, hence the name "Perfected Model". It has the superior action of the .32 Hand Ejector I frame, thumb cyl release button left side frame, and the same small I frame size. So it has a double Locking system, the top break latch and the cylinder release on the left side of the frame. This gained its favor because police that used the earlier top break revolvers complained that a "bad guy" could grab the revolver top break latch, open it, and render it unshootable.

This a not mine, it's a 4"
View attachment 888679
View attachment 888678
Compared to .38 DA Top Break Hammerless size, 5" barrels
View attachment 888680

I have a bunch of .32 Wadcutter ammo, so I've been tempted to ream a spare .32 top break cylinder to accept that. It's a slight step up in power from .32 S&W, but not by much. Should be fine in later top breaks. I've also read you can safely shoot .32 ACP (it's semi-rimmed) in later .32 S&W cylinders. I've done it in a Nagant, but never a top break.

 

[duke2002]

632 are nice but $$$. A 31 or a 22/32 terrier would be good. Regulation police too.

 

[Hondo44]

I have a bunch of .32 Wadcutter ammo, so I've been tempted to ream a spare .32 top break cylinder to accept that. It's a slight step up in power from .32 S&W, but not by much. Should be fine in later top breaks. I've also read you can safely shoot .32 ACP (it's semi-rimmed) in later .32 S&W cylinders. I've done it in a Nagant, but never a top break.

Here's another fact that makes a big difference. Cylinders with an odd number of chambers are always inherently stronger for one simple reason, since the cylinder latch notches are the weakest link in cylinder strength. Therefore with an even number of chambers, the notches are over the chambers; but with an odd number of chambers, the notches are between chambers!
The 32 Break tops have 5 shot cylinders.

I've used 32 acp and it shoots fine in 32 Long revolvers. I wouldn't use it in a top break however.
32 S&W is 12,000 PSI
32 long is 15,000 PSI
32 ACP is 20,000 PSI

I made a correction to my post #4: the .32 Long will only fit in the top break cylinder if it's loaded with wadcutters that don't extend beyond the case mouth more than .245".

 

[wcat94]

I really liked the six shot 3" 632 centennial in 32 h&r magnum for carry. Like duke2002 said they have become harder to find and expensive for an everyday carry gun.

 

[robertrwalsh]

The current production Ultimate Carry J-frame is a fine revolver assuming you get a representative sample. if you want something older the .32 regulation police is also a very cool carry gun, if a bit elderly. The Ultimate Carry is chambered for .32 H&R magnum though I suspect the .32 regulation police could safely be bored out to accept that cartridge if you really wanted to. Either would make a perfectly decent CCW gun if you are happy with the caliber. (I own one of each and shoot them both now and again.)

 

[Hondo44]

Thank you sir .....this is why I said I have zero info on pre 1960 revolvers , I did find a 1992 model 632 in H&R mag that might fit the bill?? I own 33 revolvers all but 1 made b4 1990 . I find the hunt as fun as the capture

Now you've opened a whole new possibility. One very common and popular way to get an inexpensive .32 H&R Mag is start with a .32 Hand Ejector Model 30 round butt or Regulation Police Square butt Model 31. It has to be a J frame which began in 1961. It's the easiest conversion: rent a reamer to ream the chambers to 32 H&R by only removing .155" slightly more than an 1/8". I've done this and you can still shoot 32 Long of course.

 

[darrickducky]

I am not well versed in older (pre 1960 ) S&W revolvers. I am wanting a top break revolver in 32 long for CCW what model should I be looking for? Price? I like old things mainly because I am old and would appreciate any and all info dealing with this

thanks in advance ....Jay

Iver Johnson produced a VERY limited amount of 3rd models in the 32 long, but they are hard to find in even harder to find in working condition. They do have a six round capacity instead of five.

That same company later produced a different model called the viking s-67 which actually was also a thirty two long top break, but it has no ejector and you actually have to physically fish out the empties with your fingers.

 

[darrickducky]

I have a bunch of .32 Wadcutter ammo, so I've been tempted to ream a spare .32 top break cylinder to accept that. It's a slight step up in power from .32 S&W, but not by much. Should be fine in later top breaks. I've also read you can safely shoot .32 ACP (it's semi-rimmed) in later .32 S&W cylinders. I've done it in a Nagant, but never a top break.

In a top break that will stretch the latch until it doesn't work anymore

 

[darrickducky]

And the .32s are all only 5 shot.

I have a 32 Safety Hammerless 3rd Model, "New Departure``, from 1937 with 2" barrel. The 3" and 3 1/2" barrel versions are easier to find and cheaper. If you'd be happy with a little finish wear, you could likely find one under $400 that's mechanically sound. It's a neat gun. With the steel quality of 1937, I've often wondered if the chambers could be reamed for the 32 Long. The .32 chamber length is .95", not long enough for the .32 Long with a standard bullet. But with a wadcutter bullet extending not longer than .245" passed the case mouth it would fit in the cylinder.

However, with no .32 Long Top Break option available, and since you wanted the more powerful .32 Long, you might consider stepping up to .38 S&W (not .38 Spl.) There's 5 models available with the 5th Model, the last made from1907 to 1940.

But I consider my .38 S&W Perfected Model Top Break with 3 1/4" barrel, 1909-1920, the epitome of break top development as did S&W, hence the name "Perfected Model". It has the superior action of the .32 Hand Ejector I frame, thumb cyl release button left side frame, and the same small I frame size. So it has a double Locking system, the top break latch and the cylinder release on the left side of the frame. This gained its favor because police that used the earlier top break revolvers complained that a "bad guy" could grab the revolver top break latch, open it, and render it unshootable.

This a not mine, it's a 4"
View attachment 888679
View attachment 888678
Compared to .38 DA Top Break Hammerless size, 5" barrels
View attachment 888680

Does this feature mean that it's immune to the problem of\nThe hotter european amo wearing out the latch?

 

[Hondo44]

I can't answer that question because I haven't done any testing. But having two locks I would theorize that they at least split the pressure between the two locks and perhaps more of the load is taken by the cyl center pin lock because it's closer to the force of ignition.

 

[Retired W4]

I have reamed a few M-30's to 32 H&R Mag and my friends who own them really like them. I also have one of the newer 632's and I really like it. For EDC I would stay away from the old top breaks. That's not to denigrate them, it's just that the more modern hand ejector are better for that EDC, IMO.

 

[Frailer]

to echo Hondo44’s recommendation, if you aren’t set on a top-break, the early post-war .32 HEs are wonderful little things.

Size comparisons in photos are tricky due to perspective, but the .32 HE is only slightly larger than the .32 Safety Hammerless, and it gives you both the .32 Long cartridge and an extra round to boot.