I have a Model 25-2 that is locked up good and tight. The trigger is locked, the cylinder will not turn, I cannot manually cock it and latch will not open it. The thumb latch will not move forward, but if I pull back on the thumb piece/bolt slightly, it will turn, cock, fire , etc… but still not open. When I took the side plate off, it looks as if the bolt is now too far forward, and the back of the hammer is hitting it when you try to cock it of pull the trigger. To me, this explains the trigger not pulling and cylinder not turning, but not the cylinder failing to open. I was told it was dropped from 2-3 feet onto a concrete surface wile inside a gunsock, but I do not see any obvious damage except for a few scratches at 7 o’clock near but not on the crown of the muzzle. Thanks.
Help with 25-2
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ussmanlovede36
Member
Has the ejector rod come loose?
I also had the ejector rod come loose and tied up one of my guns. Was able to thread a small piece of thread several times around the rod, pulling on it then tightened the rod a bit and freed the gun up.
Kevin G
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Kevin G
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Since it has been dropped, the center pin may be damaged (bent) at it's interface with the center pin hole in the frame. You may be able to nudge the center pin forward by pushing forward on the back of the front leg of the bolt. Make sure the rear leg of the bolt is able to pass by the rear of the hammer prior to pushing the bolt.
Once you get the cylinder out you can assess the damage.
Carter
Once you get the cylinder out you can assess the damage.
Carter
Alk8944
US Veteran
From where the hammer and bolt are making contact in your photo the hammer may be preventing the bolt being pushed forward. Try pulling the thumbpiece to the rear and try to cock the hammer. It looks like the hammer and bolt are interfering with each other. If you can cock is with the thumbpiece pulled back then pull the trigger to let the hammer fall normally and try to push the thumbpiece forward again. Let us know what happened.
The center pin may be bent at the breech/extractor interface, but extremely unlikely.
The center pin may be bent at the breech/extractor interface, but extremely unlikely.
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If I manually pull the thumb piece back it will cock and fire, but when I release the thumb piece / bolt, it gets stuck. The thumb piece and bolt will not move forward to unlock the cylinder, even though it seems to have no spring tension on it as there
is zero spring pressure to it . When I took the side plate off, it looks like the bolt is now sitting too far forward and the radiused piece at the tail is interfering with the hammer. I think the issue is somewhere with the bolt but I can’t pin it down.
is zero spring pressure to it . When I took the side plate off, it looks like the bolt is now sitting too far forward and the radiused piece at the tail is interfering with the hammer. I think the issue is somewhere with the bolt but I can’t pin it down.
Have you taken the thumbpiece off?
Carter
Carter
Thanks. Yes and there is no change in function (or malfunctionto be precise).
Protocall_Design
Member
It looks like there may be old oil tying up the action. Soaking in a good solvent for a day or two could free it up. Might help, can't hurt.
If I remember correctly, I had a model25-2 and that had a crack in frame that could not be repaired. Or was it a 25-1. It was an alloy frame.
Getting old is a bummer. My memory is kind of like swiss chesse 'cause it has holes in.
I went in an antique shop last week and they did not want to let me leave.
Getting old is a bummer. My memory is kind of like swiss chesse 'cause it has holes in.
I went in an antique shop last week and they did not want to let me leave.
Thanks. That was fresh grease I put in to see if it would help the bolt slide forward….it didn’t. I already removed it from the bolt and lightly oiled the part again. It was clean as a whistle when I opened it and it was functioning flawlessly up until it was dropped.
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USBP SW
Member
I would agree with the assessment that the center pin may have been damaged. My friend brought me his revolver because he couldn't open it, he swore that he had no idea what happened. After some interrogation, he admitted that he had fallen on the holstered revolver. It was a Ruger speed six, I had to gently tap the center pin from the rear to open it and I discovered that the center pin was offset almost to the point of being sheared. My advice was to either lose weight or stop falling on his revolver.
minconrevo
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All S&W 25's are blue steel; no SS, no alloy made. I am seeing a lot of rust between in the image in the area of the thumb release mechanism. The suggestion to soak in Kroil or similar is a great one. Remember do not try to dryfire the pistol with the sideplate removed and the hammer spring at anything near full tension.
My bet is nothing significant is amiss with the pistol, but it needs some gentle persuasion.
My bet is nothing significant is amiss with the pistol, but it needs some gentle persuasion.
Alk8944
US Veteran
You have been given all the reasonable possibilities and still can't resolve the problem your self. Something, probably two different somethings are:
1) Preventing the hammer going all the way forward at rest, and
2) Holding the bolt too far forward and blocking the hammer
The bolt/hammer interference is preventing pushing the thumbpiece forward to unlock the cylinder. What is causing this is not apparent in the photo. You need to take the gun to someone that has a better understanding of the S&W mechanism and its function to look at the gun hands-on than you do. This could be a local gunsmith or just someone who has more experience with S&Ws than you apparently do. Properly diagnosing a problem like this is next to impossible on the internet or phone! I can guarantee whatever the problem is that is is not complicated!
At least three of us, Armorer 951, Protocol Design, and myself, have many years experience individually and collectively, in repairing firearms professionally and diagnosing problems with them and our ideas haven't helped you! Tell your friend he needs to "bite the bullet" as it were and have a professional look at the gun, even if he has to pay!
As a last resort send the gun to S&W. Call Customer Service at 800-331-0852 and they will tell you/him what needs to be done. They may send a shipping label to return the gun to the factory on their dime by UPS.
1) Preventing the hammer going all the way forward at rest, and
2) Holding the bolt too far forward and blocking the hammer
The bolt/hammer interference is preventing pushing the thumbpiece forward to unlock the cylinder. What is causing this is not apparent in the photo. You need to take the gun to someone that has a better understanding of the S&W mechanism and its function to look at the gun hands-on than you do. This could be a local gunsmith or just someone who has more experience with S&Ws than you apparently do. Properly diagnosing a problem like this is next to impossible on the internet or phone! I can guarantee whatever the problem is that is is not complicated!
At least three of us, Armorer 951, Protocol Design, and myself, have many years experience individually and collectively, in repairing firearms professionally and diagnosing problems with them and our ideas haven't helped you! Tell your friend he needs to "bite the bullet" as it were and have a professional look at the gun, even if he has to pay!
As a last resort send the gun to S&W. Call Customer Service at 800-331-0852 and they will tell you/him what needs to be done. They may send a shipping label to return the gun to the factory on their dime by UPS.
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When you close the cylinder, does it click or snap into place like it should, or does it just go in snug and quietly? When the cylinder is closed and the thumb latch piece is removed, is the bolt all the way forward in the slot? If so, then I'd guess that the center pin is bent and not going into the hole and pushing the bolt back.
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