Help with K22

[LastRound]

Howdy,

I recently purchased a K22 (1948) with about .005 of cylinder endshake. The cylinder is lightly touching the forcing cone. This is my only Smith & Wesson revolver and I am a little ignorant about their construction, but willing to learn.

I recently ordered a 10 pack of endshake bearings from Midway (.002 thickness). I know where they go, but not sure which way to turn the extractor rod for removal, "clockwise" or "counter-clockwise".

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[crsides]

The extractor rod has left hand threads on a 1948 K 22.

Secure extractor rod in padded vise, place empty shells in each chamber, and turn the cylinder by hand to the right to loosen it.


Charlie

 

[Hondo44]

The extractor rod has left hand threads on a 1948 K 22.

Secure extractor rod in padded vise, place empty shells in each chamber, and turn the cylinder by hand to the right to loosen it.


Charlie

Charlie,
I don't mean to contradict you, but the SCSW states the K22s were produced until 1959 with right hand threaded ERs; the 17-1 engineering change in 1959 was the change to left hand threads.

The only ER threads that changed to left hand thread right after the war are the I frames. The new J frame Chiefs Special Model was introduced with left threads in 1950.

 

[RBrem]

My recent purchase of a Model 18 was made in 1957 and it has a right hand thread. And I think I know why they later when to a left hand. Over a lot of shooting (about 125 rounds) I noticed it was a bit hard to drop the cylinder for cleaning. After a thorough cleaning I snapped the cylinder back in it's place but then couldn't get it open at all. Luckly I also own a K-17 and noticed the end of it's rod was not the same position as my 18. By careful screwing the knurled end of the 18's rod back into position, it opened just fine. Must be the repeated opening and closing of the gun that loosened the rod because it has a right hand thread. I'll bet when they changed to a left hand thread that problem doesn't exist.

 

[Hondo44]

My recent purchase of a Model 18 was made in 1957 and it has a right hand thread. And I think I know why they later when to a left hand. Over a lot of shooting (about 125 rounds) I noticed it was a bit hard to drop the cylinder for cleaning. After a thorough cleaning I snapped the cylinder back in it's place but then couldn't get it open at all. Luckly I also own a K-17 and noticed the end of it's rod was not the same position as my 18. By careful screwing the knurled end of the 18's rod back into position, it opened just fine. Must be the repeated opening and closing of the gun that loosened the rod because it has a right hand thread. I'll bet when they changed to a left hand thread that problem doesn't exist.

The normal rotation of the cylinder is the correct direction to unscrew the ER. The problem does still exist but much less often w/left hand threads.

 

[LastRound]

So....on the 1948 k22 do I loosen the extractor by turning it, "clockwise" or "counter clockwise"? I like to use this terminology, because everybody knows the way a clock turns.

Anybody?

 

[Hondo44]

Look at the cylinder rotation. As I said in the post above yours, cyl rotation will unscrew a right hand thread.

 

[LastRound]

Thanks Hondo,

I was just double checking.

 

[crsides]

Charlie,
I don't mean to contradict you, but the SCSW states the K22s were produced until 1959 with right hand threaded ERs; the 17-1 engineering change in 1959 was the change to left hand threads.

The only ER threads that changed to left hand thread right after the war are the I frames. The new J frame Chiefs Special Model was introduced with left threads in 1950.

BIG TIME WHOOPS !!! MY bad.

Thanks for bailing me out Hondo.

Charlie

 

[LastRound]

I just gave it another try in my padded vice with empty cases in the chambers and it will NOT budge! I didn't want to break it so I'm bringing it in to the gunsmith tomorrow. We have the best in the state, and if he cant get it out no one can. He said it should only cost $25 to $30.

I thought it would be easy job, but maybe, like people, after 63 years they just get too damn stubborn.

Thanks again

 

[Hondo44]

I just gave it another try in my padded vice with empty cases in the chambers and it will NOT budge! I didn't want to break it so I'm bringing it in to the gunsmith tomorrow. We have the best in the state, and if he cant get it out no one can. He said it should only cost $25 to $30.

I thought it would be easy job, but maybe, like people, after 63 years they just get too damn stubborn.

Thanks again

Last Round,
I just looked at the photo of your K22 again to double check the vintage and with that 'fish hook' hammer as some call it, it would definitely have the right hand thread. So from the back end you would turn the cylinder conterclockwise. Looking at the ER from the muzzle end you would also turn the ER counterclockwise. Now someone could have used locktite on it or something similar unfortunately. In that case a little heat is required. But they can be awfully tight and your gunsmith is a good move. I hope he let's you watch.

Hey...something just occurred to me !!! Does the serial number on the cylinder match your gun barrel and # on the butt of the grip frame? Or is there a star or diamond stamped on the cylinder?? These stamps indicate parts replaced at the factory.

If the cylinder was replaced for any reason after 1959, the new parts would likely have the new LEFT HAND thread. The left hand ERs have a little groove cut around the rod right beind the checkered end at the juncture with the smooth part of the rod. Do you see anything like that?

 

[Hondo44]

BIG TIME WHOOPS !!! MY bad.

Thanks for bailing me out Hondo.

Charlie

Charlie, it was just my turn, I've been bailed out so many times believe me. I'm hoping you'll help me out the next time my fingers are in motion before my brain's engaged...

 

[Hammerdown]

So....on the 1948 k22 do I loosen the extractor by turning it, "clockwise" or "counter clockwise"? I like to use this terminology, because everybody knows the way a clock turns.

Anybody?

Hello lastRound
As Other's have told you, Your K-22 has right hand extractor Threads. It would loosen with couner clockwise effort. If you have an Old Leather belt around, try wrapping it around the Knurling on the extractor rod collar and apply pressure with a good set of pliers. Never apply pliers to the rod itself without a leather belt or something cushioning the knurling or it will destroy the knurled portion of your extractor. I have a tool and I assume Brownells sell's it to remove stuck extractor collars. It is made of aluminum and goes around the extractor knurled portion. You take it down using an allen wrench and the soft aluminum leaves no marks or damage behind. I checked Brownell's for you and apparently they have discontinued this Extractor rod tool, but the link will show you a Picture of what I spoke about Perhap's you can find one used or from someone else, I hope this helps, Hammerdown



EJECTOR ROD TOOL - Brownells

 

[aphelion]

This one is still available -

EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL - Brownells

 

[handejector]

The rod on the pictured gun is RIGHT hand thread.
Try some good penetrant like Kroil or Liquid Wrench.

I use oak vise jaws covered with heavy leather to clamp the rod.
The belt and pliers can work, but BE CAREFUL--- If you have strong hands, the plier jaws can cut through the heaviest of leather (new shoe sole grade) and mar the rod.
I don't want to talk about how I learned this!

 

[LastRound]

I gave up and took it to a gunsmith.

Hondo-- The number on the butt matches the number on the grip and cylinder. I did not see any other symbols on the cylinder.

Even if it costs $25 to fix the endshake, I think it's worth it. I picked it up at the pawn shop last weekend for $254.

 

[Hondo44]

Whoa, great buy! Yeah it's worth it to let the pro wrestle with it and he can fix the endshake at the same time. I just can't give up sometimes, LOL.

 

[LastRound]

endshake update.

Well, I got the gun back from the gunsmith and everything seemed ok until I fired it a few times. The trigger pull was getting stiffer the more I pulled the trigger. I noticed the cylinder was rubbing on the other end (loading end, extractor star notches on frame). He had put some grease in that area to make it seem smooth until the grease had worn off.

Previously, I had ordered washers and there were two choices, a 10 pack .002 or .004. I ordered the pack of .002 because I knew the cylinder needed to be moved back about .006 (3 washers).

I had my suspicions that he must have put in two .004 washers, maybe because he didn't have the others in stock?....My suspicions were correct. I was able to unscrew the extractor, now that he had been in there, and sure enough two .004 washers. I took them out and added 3 of mine and it has a perfect .006 gap and shoots like a champ (no more rubbing).

I guess the so called "best gunsmiths in the state", know how to cut corners too.

Thanks for all your help. It was still a pain to unscrew, but the leather strap and channel locks worked great!! Thanks to you guys I now have a smooth shooting K-22.

 

[Hondo44]

Bravo! So glad to hear the happy ending and lo and behold it was your common sense and diligence that was the final solution after all!!

Enjoy and all the best,

 

[Hammerdown]

I guess the so called "best gunsmiths in the state", know how to cut corners too.

Thanks for all your help. It was still a pain to unscrew, but the leather strap and channel locks worked great!! Thanks to you guys I now have a smooth shooting K-22.

Hello LastRound
Glad it all worked out. The Leather Strap has worked for me too until I Purchased an Extractor tool to loosen it with. Great outcome....