Hoppes 9 and Winchester Break Free...

[VooDuuChild]

Ok, hope I didn't hurt my barrel. I've been using Hoppes 9 to clean the barrel. I usually drag dry pads through afterwards. But I read somewhere that you should put CLP in the barrel after usig a solvent like Hoppes so the solvent doesn't hurt the barrel. Uh oh, I've not done this. Is it safe around polymers too?

Ok, now onto the Winchester Break Free. Is it safe for polymers? It doesn't say on it whether or not it is safe or not. I got it because after my last cleaning using Hoppes, I just can't get the grittiness outta the bolt action. Like when you reinstall the bolt all the way, you can still push it in just a tad, that's where it feels gritty. I was hopin just to be able to spray the WBF in there so that whatevers in that area drains out since I can't reach it with q-tips.

Whudduya think?

thanks!

 

[Pisgah]

no. 9 is mild enough that I doubt you have done much, if any, damage, especially if you have been wiping the bore dry. Still, I like to use a lightly-oiled patch after drying the Hoppe's out; if I am shooting again soon, I follow the oil with a dry patch; if it's going to be a few days, I leave the oil in place.

Gun polymers these days are pretty impervious to most gun oils/cleaners. Certainly, CLP is safe.

 

[john16443]

You're fine, don't even worry about it. Hoppe's will not hurt your barrel or your other parts if it is just the No. 9 cleaning solvent. They also market their copper remover and other harsher solvents under the No. 9 markings, so be more careful with those.

As for your Winchester CLP, no worries there either. Look closely at the can, it is made by Safariland, who makes the Break Free brand. It is Break Free product repackaged by Winchester. I get mine at Walmart.

As with any solvent, remove as much as possible when used, and a couple dry patches down the barrel and a wipe of other surfaces is more than enough. Follow that up with a very light oiling of the necessary parts and you're done. Since I shoot my guns regularly, I don't run an oiled patch down the barrel, as I never let it sit long enough for corrosion to start. Since I'm in SoCal, I also don't have the environmental extremes you may have, which helps.

 

[Vfeldman]

Along these lines, be very careful with the winchester brand spray cleaner. I can't recall the exact name but the same place the sells the winchester brand CLP sells it. It's very similar to carb cleaner. It destroyed the finish on the wood grips on one of my 1911s

 

[VooDuuChild]

Any recommendations for oil? I've been using gun butter so far.

So, it goes Hoppes 9 down barrel, push dry pads through, then lightly oil.

Then use the CLP on the rest, wipe excess and oil bolt etc.

Sound about right?

Thanks for the heads up Vfeldman! Will keep that in mind for sure!

 

[john16443]

Any gun based oil product would be fine. What you're doing is correct, ie. clean and then oil. Even if you dropped the oiling step on the portion of the 15-22 that you are using CLP on would be OK, since the L and P in CLP mean lubricant and protectant.

 

[Charliee]

I use CLP or Ballistol. Either one makes a good gun oil. I also use a little grease on my slides.

 

[tacticool22]

I have been very happy with Gunzilla. Almost no odor, so no family complaints, and the 15-22 runs better with it than any of my old favorites. It's hard to beat Hoppes #9, but this stuff did.

 

[shawnfergie]

I've used Mpro 7 cleaner since day 1 and no problems at all. It works great and you can use it in the house with no issues. After using Mpro 7, I use q tips to clean out the rails that support the bolt and then use a bore snake (very rarely) and then some Mpro 7 CLP <-- awesome stuff.

I've noticed the same grit problem that was mentioned earlier. Once I switch to Mpro CLP it got much better.

 

[tacticool22]

Some of that gritty feel is the rough finish on the bolt rails.
Clean the rails with a hard Arkansas stone and you will be much happier with the feel and performance. Don't remove any material, just the roughness on the edges.

 

[reelman]

First you don't need to clean the barrel hardly ever in a .22, you will generally do more damage cleaning it then by shooting it.

Hoppes #9 is one step stronger than water so I wouldn't worry about it. It smells good but that's about all it's good for.

 

[UpstateNY]

I've used Mpro 7 cleaner since day 1 and no problems at all. It works great and you can use it in the house with no issues. After using Mpro 7, I use q tips to clean out the rails that support the bolt and then use a bore snake (very rarely) and then some Mpro 7 CLP <-- awesome stuff.

I've noticed the same grit problem that was mentioned earlier. Once I switch to Mpro CLP it got much better.

+1 on the Mpro 7 products. I picked up a couple of their smaller bottles on a recommendation here and will stick with them from here on out. My wife loves it because it doesn't stink up the house.

 

[VooDuuChild]

The grittiness felt, isn't the main rail that the bolt rests on, that is nice and smooth, it is gritty once the is completely seated and then pushed in further, the last quarter inch or so is gritty feeling.

 

[chuck s]

Winchester is a brand name.
Breakfree is a brand name.
Different companies/

CLP and Breakfree and not synonyms...

-- Chuck

 

[rtquig]

First you don't need to clean the barrel hardly ever in a .22, you will generally do more damage cleaning it then by shooting it.

Hoppes #9 is one step stronger than water so I wouldn't worry about it. It smells good but that's about all it's good for.

I disagree, a clean barrel is alway's the best choice, and unless you are using a steel brush with brake fluid you will not do more damage by cleaning it. Depending on the ammunition, come people feel it necessary to clean the barrel while at the range. Myself I clean the entire firearm after every time it is used.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Hoppe's is OK. Even makes a good cologne.