Hoppe's No. 9 is not a CLP

[rwsmith]

What rockyq sez, and more....

Ed's Red or Hoppe's #9 is "not an oil on the metal", at least for me. I wipe down the metal with a lightly oiled (whatever oil is handy) soft cotton cloth. There's a difference between a solvent and an oil.

After I clean with Hoppes 9 I oil the gun.

AND This bears repeating. DO NOT use Hoppes 9 or any other solvent that has ammonia in it's formula because the newer blued finishes that they started using a few years ago will turn plum colored. So at the range instead of people admiring the blued finish they will be telling you how your plum gun matches your handbag.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Advertising works. People will buy what is claimed to be the goodest and bestest. People will pay ridiculous prices for tiny bottles of stuff that some gun mag writer is pushing to increase advertiser revenues.

A number of the popular products in recent years are little more than canola oil with a variety of colorants and scents added. Basically the same stuff you might have in your kitchen cabinet, about $2 per quart at the grocery store but several dollars per ounce with a big advertiser's name on it. By the way, canola oil is a trade reference to the vegetable oil harvested from seeds of the rape plant; apparently the advertising folks figured out they might have problems selling "rape oil" in modern North America.

All of this stuff comes from chemical companies in various formulations for different uses and industrial applications. Whatever works for you is probably just what you need.

 

[stansdds]

Hoppes No.9 is still my go-to, general purpose firearms cleaning solution and likely will be for years to come since I bought it in the big, 32 ounce bottle. My standard practice has always been to use it as a solvent, a cleaning agent, one that is wiped off, then oil or wax applied to prevent corrosion.

I'm not worried about it changing the color of the bluing on any of my blued firearms as mine were made well before 2000, when S&W went to it's current, EPA friendly oxide finish. Not worried about it on my nickel plated S&W either as S&W plated directly to the steel, no copper intermediate layer to worry about dissolving.

 

[WildBillWJW]

I used Hoppe's #9 in the '40s,'50s, and '60s. But after they changed their formula I only still use it as cologne.

Cloward pre-64 243 custom for sale....unfired.

Beautiful!!!

 

[DWalt]

Long ago, I was gifted with a quart of Shooters Choice bore cleaner, so that is what I use. I don’t believe there is any detectable difference between any of the bore cleaner brands. Fact is that any light machine oil, like 3-in-1, will do as good a bore cleaning job as any name brand bore cleaner. And CLP is nothing different from low viscosity synthetic engine oil. Except for its price.

 

[Greyman50]

Getting ready to finish cleaning of 3 Smiths I shot the other day. Ran bore brush with new Hoppes through cylinders, barrels and used old tooth brush on cylinder face , crane and inside frame. Been about 3 hours so they will get scrubbed again, cleaning patches run then sprayed with brake cleaner to remove everything. Then small amount of Em oil or another to finish them off. 1 is stainless.

 

[Trooper224]

Since Ol'#9 doesn't do anything well, this is no surprise.

 

[GnarlsR2]

About 2 months ago I was watching a Youtuber cleaning his AR. He used Hoppe's then he used Bore Tech's Cu+2 Copper Cleaner on the bore.

I bought a bottle of Bore Tech and cleaned the bore with it on all my firearms and I was blown away at how much copper residue came out of those bores. I now have switched to Cu+2 Copper cleaner for all my cleaning. I then lube with Clenzoil.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Never used it for anything but a solvent . Never had any issues. About anything else would be a better lubricant .