How do I clean an antique sword???

[Warren Sear]

My dad brought this French Model 1831 sword back from Europe after WWII. It has been sitting in a closet ever since, except for an occasional showing to friends and family. Last week my mother gave it to me.

The sword and sheath are made of brass, steel, and leather. There is a build-up of dirt and other stuff on the handle and blade. I would like to give the sword and the sheath a coat of Renaissance wax and then hand buff it off. Will that clean and protect them without doing any damage?

Would wiping it down first with mineral spirits be a good idea? Bad idea?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Penmon]

Best advise is not to mess with it, lightly oil the blade and scrub gently with a soft brush,wipe repeat. After your done you can leave a light coat of oil or wipe clean with a soft rag and polish the blade with a good quality wax, like Johnson' wax or one of the high quality auto waxes. I repeat do not use any abrasive cleaners.

The collectors value is in the patina on the blade aggressive cleaning or polishing destroys the patina and hence any collectors interest. The patina helps determine it's age and condition.

DO NO HARM, PERSERVE,PROTECT,AND ADMIRE

 

[Penmon]

One other thought, the leather parts of the scabbard should be wiped gently and waxed as well, Renaissance wax as you noted in your post is great stuff and also works on leather.

Mineral spirits most likely won't harm the metal but could dry and damage the leather parts.

I truly believe some oil a rag and a brush is the way to go, of course avoid the leather if at all possible.

 

[30-30remchester]

Let me tell you of my collection. I have collected old blades for a few decades now. In my zeal when young I cleaned everything. After a dozen years of collecting I was visited by a major collector. With great pride I showed my shiny antique blades. He was visibly shaken with my collection. He then sat me down and explained that I had removed all history of every piece. He made me FINALLY see the error of my ways. Every dent, ding, rub mark, and imperfection is this piece's story. Once you do anything but wipe the metal down with a light oil, a reverse course can never be taken. It is forever and always a shined up former piece of history. I literally ruined hundreds of antique knives before I woke up. I now leave antique guns and knives as I found them. I remove the dirt with a light wiping cloth and stop rust at all costs as this is a cancer that will continue to grow. I removed half of the value of my collection by pimping them up and had a difficult time finding anyone even wanting to purchase them. You can get a BUDS catalog that sells shiny knives if you want one that outshines the front bumper of your car, and leave history alone. You have a beautiful blade, just as it is, that anyone would be proud to have in their collection.

 

[L Pete]

Don't you watch Antiques Roadshow?........Clean Nothing.........It's more valuable that way..........

 

[Houlton]

Don't do anything till you get it appraised. If its worth $20 make it look good. Might have a real winner and any polishing it might destroy any value.

 

[Tom_R]

Yup, agreed, antiques roadshow and Pawn Stars repeatedly discuss not removing the patina from an old blade like that.

 

[Warren Sear]

I don't want to pimp it out, just remove the crud on the handle and blade. I certainly do not want to remove the "patina", which I think is just a fancy synonym for tarnish or corrosion.

 

[Big Stick]

Warren, I think you are missing the point. Most of that "crud" is what gives the item its identity. If it can't be easily removed with a soft towel.... LEAVE IT! Unless a conservator from a museum or auction house tells you otherwise, just be happy with the grime...

 

[BOMBTEC]

Confederate Artillary Short Sword

I have a re-pop Confederate Artillery Short Sword. The Confederate Army Artillery Crops copied his sword or purchased a large amount of these swords from the French. With the only difference being on the tang in he loops on the end is stamped a large C & S for Confederate States. The Artillery troops used them for clearing brush for their artillery locations.
E-Bay $79.95 Civil War 26" Artillery Short Sword Used by Both Confederate and Union Soldiers | eBay
I was into Civil War Reenacting when I was younger. I still have the sword. The main difference being its marked M1832.

 

[Frank46]

During the Civil War a company by the name of Ames made and almost exact copy of your short sword for the artillary brass handle and just about the same type scabbard. Had a buddy who was into Japanese swords and knives. I believe there was a special powder they used on the sword and oil as well. One of his pride and joys was a couple hundred years old. No rust whatsoever. Frank

 

[DWalt]

Samurai swords are a different animal, and can be restored and polished. I think that can be done properly only by master swordsmiths in Japan, and it is quite costly.

 

[absolutdobe]

Sword

My dad brought this French Model 1831 sword back from Europe after WWII. It has been sitting in a closet ever since, except for an occasional showing to friends and family. Last week my mother gave it to me.

The sword and sheath are made of brass, steel, and leather. There is a build-up of dirt and other stuff on the handle and blade. I would like to give the sword and the sheath a coat of Renaissance wax and then hand buff it off. Will that clean and protect them without doing any damage?

Would wiping it down first with mineral spirits be a good idea? Bad idea?

Thanks for any help.

Do not clean this item as it will decrease the value of the sword. This "don't clean" is true for most all antiques and coin.

Before you go any further have the sword appraised. mOne place you can do this is at a gun show.

 

[Comrad]

Have you done any Internet searches, there's a ton of information on these swords out there.

 

[DWalt]

" I certainly do not want to remove the "patina", which I think is just a fancy synonym for tarnish or corrosion. "

That's exactly what it is. Patina is basically adherent corrosion (not necessarily an oxide) on a metal surface, and is valued on many antique items, and even coins. One should never attempt polishing collectible silver coins either. I remember a story about someone who came into a collection of valuable silver coins, and knowing no better, polished them all with silver polish, therefore cutting their value in half. However, I don't think a wipedown with something like mineral spirits or light oil would do any damage to patina, as it is not abrasive.

 

[Flattop5]

I own several swords.

All I do is this: I carefully apply a film of gun grease to the blade. Coat every surface of the blade. That arrests any rust that might be growing on it. Beyond that, leave the sword alone.



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[WU_Who]

You pierce your foes gullet with the sword then proceed to wipe off the blade with the dispatched foe's cape. Return to scabbard.

 

[Flattop5]

You pierce your foes gullet with the sword then proceed to wipe off the blade with the dispatched foe's cape. Return to scabbard.

Now there's an original thought. Hat tip!



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[mauser9]

Thread reminds me of every Kar98k thats had the stock sanded, reblued, markings ground off, and turned into a rifle worth $100 which would have been $1200 if left alone!!!

 

[Bruce51]

Nice looking sword you have there.

My first thought was that it is in the style of a Roman Gladius sword.

I'm not an expert but that appears to be a short stabbing sword.

How long is the blade and OAL.

Comments on its vintage anyone?

BLM

French artillery sword based on the Gladius. according to Wiki.

I guess I found the answer to my question. Thanks for sharing.