How to Clean Brushed Stainless Front of Cylinder?

[HarrishMasher]

What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!

 

[ralph7]

The Lead Away cloths from Birchwood Casey do a remarkable job.
I just cut a piece about twice as big as a bore patch and rub the fouling out.

 

[chasmatic]

I use some Hoppe's and a brass brush. It will never look un-fired again. The fire markings will not completely go away unless you abrade the steel and you don't want to do that.

 

[arjay]

All of the polishes and lead away cloths have mild abrasives that will polish stainless and nickel and remove blueing

 

[roscoepc]

Rem Oil and a brass brush works for me on that area as well as the smutted areas at the muzzle when I remove the compensator for cleaning on my 500...

 

[at_liberty]

What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!

The chemical carbon removers and a toothbrush will work well on any finish, but don't expect a like-new appearance. If resistant in spite of the chemical, switch to a bronze brush. I get good results with either Otis Carbon Remover or Slip2000 Carbon Killer/Bore Cleaner. Either works very quickly.

 

[shawn mccarver]

We have a winner. . . post 3 is the correct answer.

 

[Nick B]

We have a winner. . . post 3 is the correct answer.

Nope . Post 2 is the real correct answer .

 

[VictorLouis]

I've used Flitz on numerous stainless revolvers, the key is with a brass bristle toothbrush, not steel. Just a wee tiny dab with a Q-tip near the ejector rod, about every other chamber. Allow the flat side of your toothbrush to work parallel to the flat spot of the crane and rotate the cylinder as work. Very light touch is all it will need.

 

[at_liberty]

Nope . Post 2 is the real correct answer .

Nope. Post #6 is the correct answer.

 

[enidpd804]

The Lead Away cloths from Birchwood Casey do a remarkable job.
I just cut a piece about twice as big as a bore patch and rub the fouling out.

I don't know if it's correct or not , but I do this ^^^^. It works.

 

[Florida J Frame]

On my stainless guns I use a lead away cloth followed up with Nevr-Dull. They look like new.

 

[Waywatcher]

I clean them exactly the same way I clean blued guns. An old toothbrush and CLP. It doesn't remove the scorch rings but it does remove the fouling.

The scorch rings are a sign that your guns are used and shot. And that is a good thing unless you are a museum curator.

 

[Harrison]

The scorch rings are a sign that your guns are used and shot. And that is a good thing unless you are a museum curator.

Evem museums have guns on display that have been fired at one time or another.

 

[Nemo288]

All my revolvers are stainless.
I have never felt the need for more than a wipe with a large patch
and solvent of ones choice to get the loose powder off.
If you have enough lead on the front of the cylinder to worry about,
you have a problem that should be solved otherwise.
Haven't used a brush on a cylinder face in 35 years.

===
Nemo

 

[SLT223]

Slip 2000 and a Kleenbore bronze brush...

 

[G.T. Smith]

this is true.

The scorch rings are a sign that your guns are used and shot. And that is a good thing unless you are a museum curator.

I clean my stainless .357 after every shooting session. I take the fouling off and leave the dark circles because I personally like the way they look. Gun looks shot. Plus it's easier than scrubbing and polishing something that don't need it. Did I mention just how lazy I've become?
Peace,
Gordon

 

[GPJohn]

+1 Birchwood Casey Lead Away Cloth

 

[AveragEd]

I get mine looking exactly like an unfired gun quite easily. I wipe the face of the cylinder with a patch soaked with bore cleaner (I use Butch's Bore Shine) and allow it to soak into the fouling for ten or fifteen minutes. When I wipe it off, 90% of the fouling is gone. A rub with a brass brush and Flitz or Iosso polish and the cylinder is 100% clean.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Ed

 

[RobsTV]

Use Mothers mag wheel polish here to remove all traces of use, even with old SS revolvers. I don't like the scorch circle rings, and no need to see them when they are easily removed.

To me, it is like having a nice shiny new car, and never detailing the rims, leaving brake dust and road grime for that nice driven look.

 

[DonD]

Nope. Post #6 is the correct answer.

I'll join the argument. I tried SLIP whatever and found it useless. Haven't been impressed with the Hoppe's/brush either. The Leadaway cloth has always been my go to process. Don

 

[CH4]

What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!

Send it to me and I'll do it for free, as long as it's a prelock and you let me add my own carbon rings.

 

[Florida Guy]

I also recommend the Lead Away cloth.
It takes me at least 5 minutes of rubbing to get cylinder clean.
If you buy a cloth, cut it into small pieces (2"x2") so you don't get the entire cloth dirty. One cloth lasts a long time.

 

[Krell1]

The Lead Away cloths from Birchwood Casey do a remarkable job.
I just cut a piece about twice as big as a bore patch and rub the fouling out.

This works for me as well. It takes a little rubbing but it does come off. Something to keep in mind though. If you plan on firing the gun again, don't bother doing it because it'll be just as bad when you're done shooting. Get it as clean as you can and shoot on!

 

[bananaman]

I don't have the need to get it all off! The first time you fire another cylinder full.....IT"S BACK! Bob

 

[at_liberty]

Since the deposits are not lead as much as they are byproducts of the firing, most notably carbon, it is odd that so many are going for a lead removal cloth or some method that removes some degree of material. My chemical approach and a plastic bristle brush leaves the cylinder face almost pristine. Sometimes there is a stain beneath the surface that I just leave. It's clean enough. I will stay with my Otis Carbon Remover or Slip2000 Carbon Remover/Bore Cleaner.

 

[S&WForty]

Frog Lube cleans the cylinders on my blued 29-10 and stainless 67 and 686 very well. With FL on there prior to shooting, it's even easier to clean after a range trip.