How to Clean Brushed Stainless Front of Cylinder?

HarrishMasher

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What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!
 
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Rem Oil and a brass brush works for me on that area as well as the smutted areas at the muzzle when I remove the compensator for cleaning on my 500...
 
What is the best way to clean the fouling off of the front of the cylinder on a brushed stainless cylinder (686 PC 2.5")? Will Flitz make it shiny?

While we are out, how about a carbon steel blued cylinder? Thanks!

The chemical carbon removers and a toothbrush will work well on any finish, but don't expect a like-new appearance. If resistant in spite of the chemical, switch to a bronze brush. I get good results with either Otis Carbon Remover or Slip2000 Carbon Killer/Bore Cleaner. Either works very quickly.
 
I've used Flitz on numerous stainless revolvers, the key is with a brass bristle toothbrush, not steel. Just a wee tiny dab with a Q-tip near the ejector rod, about every other chamber. Allow the flat side of your toothbrush to work parallel to the flat spot of the crane and rotate the cylinder as work. Very light touch is all it will need.
 
The Lead Away cloths from Birchwood Casey do a remarkable job.
I just cut a piece about twice as big as a bore patch and rub the fouling out.

I don't know if it's correct or not :), but I do this ^^^^. It works.
 
On my stainless guns I use a lead away cloth followed up with Nevr-Dull. They look like new.
 
I clean them exactly the same way I clean blued guns. An old toothbrush and CLP. It doesn't remove the scorch rings but it does remove the fouling.

The scorch rings are a sign that your guns are used and shot. And that is a good thing unless you are a museum curator.
 
All my revolvers are stainless.
I have never felt the need for more than a wipe with a large patch
and solvent of ones choice to get the loose powder off.
If you have enough lead on the front of the cylinder to worry about,
you have a problem that should be solved otherwise.
Haven't used a brush on a cylinder face in 35 years.

===
Nemo
 
this is true.

The scorch rings are a sign that your guns are used and shot. And that is a good thing unless you are a museum curator.

I clean my stainless .357 after every shooting session. I take the fouling off and leave the dark circles because I personally like the way they look. Gun looks shot. Plus it's easier than scrubbing and polishing something that don't need it. Did I mention just how lazy I've become? :o
Peace,
Gordon
 
I get mine looking exactly like an unfired gun quite easily. I wipe the face of the cylinder with a patch soaked with bore cleaner (I use Butch's Bore Shine) and allow it to soak into the fouling for ten or fifteen minutes. When I wipe it off, 90% of the fouling is gone. A rub with a brass brush and Flitz or Iosso polish and the cylinder is 100% clean.

BEFORE:

DSC_0467.jpg


AFTER:

686PPG-1_zpsefe35813.jpg


Ed
 
Use Mothers mag wheel polish here to remove all traces of use, even with old SS revolvers. I don't like the scorch circle rings, and no need to see them when they are easily removed.

To me, it is like having a nice shiny new car, and never detailing the rims, leaving brake dust and road grime for that nice driven look. :rolleyes:
 
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