How to grip a J-frame to avoid thumb hitting cylinder release?

pmandayam

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I rented and shot the new polymer M&P Bodyguard 38 special at the range yesterday, and while I didn't shoot the 442, I held one and went through the action yesterday with it.

What I noticed is that with the bodyguard 38, my right thumb is free to grip the gun however I want it to, but with the 442, the cylinder release is "in the way" of my thumb and I couldn't get a comfortable grip. I like to hold high so that the web of my hand is near that top edge of the backstrap, but when I do that with the 442, my right thumb knuckle is touching the cylinder release, which will rub my thumb during recoil and cause pain (which is not an uncommon issue with these J-frames, search online).

Then I tried adjusting the grip lower and extending out my thumb, but when I do this, it hits my trigger finger on the trigger pull.

So how can I get an obstruction-free J-frame grip? Can you guys post pictures of how you grip it?
 
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I have owned several J-Frames in 38 Special and currently have a 36 and a 49. Most likely you have good sized hands. The Bodyguard has a rubber grip that is larger and fills up your hand.

IF you buy one of the J-Frames you will probably need a larger grip or a grip adapter. I use Tyler T-Grips on several handguns.

For Concealed Carry the rubber grips can snag on the pocket or shirt tail. So that is why I stick with wood grips and an adapter. On my 1917 Brazilian Contract, the wood service stocks are small for my hand and allow the trigger guard to hit my ring finger knuckle. The grip adapter places my hand in a position similar to target stocks but isn't as big around and allows the use of the lanyard and military holsters.

Ivan
 
The cylinder thumbpiece doesn't seem to bother me too much, but then again I am left handed. Sorry I just couldn't resist. Sometimes being lefthanded is not the handicap it would seem to be.

This is the reason I stay mostly silent on this and other forums, someone beats me to what I'm thinking…:)
(Except shooting is the only thing I do left handed)
 
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I grip my centennials with my right hand and let my thumb ride on top edge of the cylinder release. I've found that if i tuck my thumb in under I get a bloody knuckle on my thumb. This method has worked well for me and i'm pleased with the control and overall grip.

My carry J frames normally wear Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips or the larger rubber combat grips. YMMV
 
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T he Bodyguard 38 isn't a J frame: it's an action that isn't used in any other gun.

It jams reliably : a design defect Smith won't fix.

I sure wouldn't buy it for sd.
 
T he Bodyguard 38 isn't a J frame: it's an action that isn't used in any other gun.

It jams reliably : a design defect Smith won't fix.

I sure wouldn't buy it for sd.

I'm sorry you had bad experience with this revolver, but not everyone has had the same experiences as you.
 
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I grip my centennials with my right hand and let my thumb ride on top edge of the cylinder release. I've found that if i tuck my thumb in under I get a bloody knuckle on my thumb. This method has worked well for me and i'm pleased with the control and overall grip.

My carry J frames normally wear Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips or the larger rubber combat grips. YMMV

Can you post a picture please?
 
Lefty Here - my thumb is on the other side!
I also like Pachs and similar grips.
Here's set on my 640.
 

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I just lay my thumb along the side, below the cylinder release and just above my index finger. Never had an issue busting my thumb on the release during recoil and never interfered with my trigger press. I took a picture with my phone but apparently I need to upload it to some URL and can't directly attach it.
 
My thumb is always folded down behind and under the cylinder release. The only time I ever have a problem is shooting .357s rapidly in which case the thumb release quickly makes hamburger out of the top knuckle.
yNBxfC4l.jpg
 
Can you post a picture please?

+1 on using Uncle Mike's stocks on J-frames. It has a recess for your right thumb and a very comfortable fit. I also have some fairly big mitts, and I have no problems carrying/shooting my 642-2. Here's how I grip my 642 strong handed and two handed...I've never busted a knuckle.
 

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Try a set of these. I have long fingers and have never had a problem using the Ergo grips. They do change the recoil impulse with the grip angle not being vertical.
 

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I use regular J-frame factory wood stocks without complaint. I hold all J-frames just as depicted in post #14. Holding my thumb up near the cylinder release feels awkward. There are always exceptions and my method (and apparently the method of many others) may not be best for everyone.
 
The grips play a big part depending on the size of your hands. First and foremost, a thumbs down and locked grip keeps the thumbs clear of any protrusions to hit on, such as the cylinder latch. I currently use Hogue Bantam boot grips because they seem to be just wide enough to keep my thumbs far enough out to start with. Can't say those grips are perfect, but they're the best mix of shooting control, comfort and concealability I've found yet. But start with locking the shooting thumb down with the support thumb. Its difficult sometimes especially when you also have semi autos on the menu and use a thumbs forward grip for them. I wouldn't recommend switching my semi auto grip to match a revolver because of the different characteristics of the guns.
 
I've got various grip/stocks on my various J-frames.
My largest j-frame grip is my favorite to shoot with but sometimes too large to carry:
shorturl.at/FIJOR (copy & paste for the Amazon link)

51T1dReoKaS._AC_SL1200_.jpg


I've also filed down the bottom edge of the cylinder latch on a couple of j-frames (newer latches). The blood & pain was just too annoying when the latch cuts into my thumb. I think I also knocked down the height of the checkering on those latches, too. See attached photo, below.
 

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The Pachmayr and similar rubber stocks help a lot in shooting, but, as mentioned, take away from the designed compactness of the revolver. If such large stocks are needed, seems it would be more practical to move up to a K-frame snub nose .38 and use the standard factory stocks.
 
As a south-paw this was never a problem for me & I only became aware of it when teaching a newbie how to shoot one. Have you considered wrapping a band aid or adhesive tape around the thumb?
 
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I lay my thumb of the shooting had on the top left edge of the frame, just a bit higher than your picture
 
T he Bodyguard 38 isn't a J frame: it's an action that isn't used in any other gun.

It jams reliably : a design defect Smith won't fix.

I sure wouldn't buy it for sd.

To be honest, I've never touched one. I can't see how the J Frame could be improved, in my lifetime anyway.

When I bought my Chief's Special in '76, the recoil (with the stock grips) would take the skin off of the knuckle on my left thumb when I fired it. A set of Pachmayr Compacs solved that issue. Since I've had good luck with the Boot Grips that came on my newer JFrames I recently replaced those grips with Boot Grips (more concealable).
 
Rubber grips are a double edged sword! Yes, they tame recoil on the small J Frames, they give you a much better purchase on the gun with stiff recoiling rounds but they also make it harder to conceal, stick to clothing and (specifically Pachmeyer's) have cause rust on two of my guns due to the metal insert cutting through the rubber and touching the guns grip frame. Check them often to make sure this doesn't happen to yours! IMHO the old Uncle Mikes were metal free and better than the Pachy's.

Therefore..... When I carried a J Frame M60-7 for many many years, I did not use rubber grips for very long. I used custom made grips along with a Tyler T. Yea, the recoil was a bit more pronounced but at least for daily EDC I had no issues of sticking, bulk or rust. I practiced with standard velocity 158 grain RNL or FNL and stoked it with either Buffalo Bore +P or Gold Dot +P for CCW. I don't really see a J Frame as a recreational every day shooter.
 
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