How to make popcorn ceilings smooth?

HAWKEYE10

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I guess popcorn is the right name for the rough ceilings they had in the eighties. We are down sizing and the house we are moving into has those rough ceilings and the wife wants them smooth. This is one time I must agree with her. I would like to know what kind of process they go through to do it.

Thanks
Don
 
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first thing is remove it before you move in,it's messy,i had it done to my house..i believe you lightly wet it then just scrape it off,then a buddy came in and just does the knockdown finish on it,looks great.don't scimp,do the whole house,garage etc....you'll be happier.
 
Popcorn ceiling

first thing is remove it before you move in,it's messy,i had it done to my house..i believe you lightly wet it then just scrape it off,then a buddy came in and just does the knockdown finish on it,looks great.don't scimp,do the whole house,garage etc....you'll be happier.

Yep, +1--had mine done a couple of years ago, guys came in, scraped it off with wide putty knife, some drywall mud troweled on to fill the big scratches and scrapes, a light sanding and repainting and it's all good. It comes off pretty quickly and easily, two guys did mine in less than two days for 3 rooms, about 800 sq. ft.
olcop:D
 
Have it checked for Asbestos. Popcorn ceilings are very often found to be asbestos. I have been doing asbestos testing for 8 years and it is one of the most likely things to contain asbestos.
Went back up and saw your location. I did send you a private message with my work number if you want more information.
 
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As above.

Spray with warm water, let it sit a bit, scrape it off.

Wear a painting suit with hood, a hat, and googles.

M E S S Y.
 
I have never done it, but I would check with local plasterers to see if it can be skimmed over. This would eliminate the need to remove it and if it does contain asbestos as stated in the post by dkizer22, it can not just be removed by Joe the handyman. Asbestos removal is regulated by law and needs to be performed by licensed contractors.

Since the ceilings will need to be skimmed over after removal anyway, why not see if it can just be covered with a thick layer of plaster.:rolleyes:
 
I considered plastering over with our popcorn ceilings.

But, we opted to remove because I was concerned about the plaster popping off in chunks.

The popcorn finish on our ceiling was very loose and crumbly.

Good advice about the asbestos removal.
 
Take pump-up liquid sprayer and saturate the ceiling in a room. Use a wide (8" to 16") plaster knife or wide trowel and gently scrape popcorn off. One person scrape, second person hold garbage can lid under trowel. With a little teamework practice, 90% goes on lid, 10% on plastic drop cloth covering floor. The better the scrapping the easier cleanup is.

Silence is your friend, just get the job done with water and save lots of money :D. Remember asbestos comes out of the ground, along with lead, coal, and crude oil. Clean water, fresh air, cold beer, and hot sex probably cause cancer somewhere too.
 
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I did our whole house one room at a time. Had to do it that way for a variety of reasons. It is MESSY, and yes depending on the year of construction it may have asbestos. I bought a texture gun from Harbor Freight so I would have some texture.

Like above, spray and scrape.
 
Remember asbestos comes out of the ground, along with lead, coal, and crude oil. Clean water, fresh air, cold beer, and hot sex probably cause cancer somewhere too.
If you've ever watched a friend die from Mesothelioma you wouldn't take such a cavalier attitude toward asbestos. The advice to protect yourself from asbestos dust is good and should be followed.
 
If its been soaked with paint,it's rock hard.If not ,it comes off easily,skim coat and paint.

This is key.^^^^^^^^^

If it has been painted after the initial application the removal is considerably tougher and that goes up exponentially with each subsequent layer of paint.

If there isn't asbestos involved and you do decide to do it yourself be sure to wear a quality (canister style mask) and goggles anyway.

If you get it down to where it can be skim coated, great, but expect to put a couple, if not three applications of skim on before you sand. With mud, the thinner the better. It's easier to mud smooth than sand smooth.

Another approach I've used in the past is to do a fake "knock down". You can take a pole sander and knock down alot of the texture and simply paint over that.

Another approach is to go over it with new drywall. Before you panic it actually can be easier to go this route and you may end up with a better finish in the end. Most municipalities require 5/8 inch drywall on ceilings so I will assume that is what you have. (typically fire codes require this). An added benefit of the 5/8 is it doesn't sag between the ceiling joists over time, or at least not to the extent that say 1/2 inch does, which some contractors try to get away with using. 3/8 inch is never used on a ceiling, or at least none that I've ever encountered.

Enter 1/4 inch

For this application I would consider using 1/4 inch drywall over your existing ceiling. Maybe do a light scrape job then glue and screw the 1/4 inch over the top. (be sure to catch your joists with the screws.) 1/4 inch isn't that heavy so it's easy to work with plus it will give you a finish like a brand new ceiling.

I'm lazy. The first drywall job I ever did was a church out in Simi Valley with cathedral ceilings back in the 70's when nobody screwed drywall, they nailed it. Since then I've tried every trick in the book to make hanging ceilings easier. Slave labor, dead mans, you name it. The best advice I can give you if you do decide to hang it yourself is to go to a "rent all" type place and rent a drywall jack. They're cheap and worth every penny. I've actually hung 12 and 14 foot sheets of 5/8's by myself with them. It will allow you to position each sheet properly and give you nice tight joints to tape. Plus, you can take your time screwing it off, have a sandwich, write a song, whatever.

I don't envy you. Short of having someone else do it you're in for some work any way you look at it. Underline checking for asbestos. Someone else mentioned it hasn't been used since 78 so if your home was built after that you should (emphasize should) be ok.

Good luck.
 
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Thats how we've handled the paint soaked stuff in the past.Its actually easier just to hang a 1/4" layer and tape it rather than scraping and skim coating and sanding.
 
Thats how we've handled the paint soaked stuff in the past.Its actually easier just to hang a 1/4" layer and tape it rather than scraping and skim coating and sanding.
I don't know about that. Floating drywall is an art. I've given it a shot a time or two and just can't seem to make it come out smooth.

In the end I vote for paying someone to do it. They're better than I and faster too.
 
Ive done far more than my fair share of drywall and tape through the years lol.Id rather hang and tape than skim coat ;-) The best solution is to sub it out.
 
first thing is remove it before you move in,it's messy,i had it done to my house..i believe you lightly wet it then just scrape it off,then a buddy came in and just does the knockdown finish on it,looks great.don't scimp,do the whole house,garage etc....you'll be happier.

we did this to our house 20 years ago. Good point about doing it before you move in. Spread drop cloth over entire floor. Wet ceiling and wait about 10 minutes to allow the "popcorn" to soak up the moisture.

take a long handled squeegie and just rake it along the ceiling the stuff comes down real easy. Our contractor had some guys with buckets of plaster come in and spread it all over and using the trowel made swereling designs in it before it dried. He called it putting a "stomp" on it. turned out great. Easy to paint with roller or spray.

Good luck!
 

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