I got a 28-2 that sticks when the hammer is pulled back

Markcuda

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I hope this is the place for this question.
I got a 28-2,4 inch today and shot 100 rounds thru it.
I always cock the gun first, then pull the trigger.
When I cock it 6 times, 2, maybe 3 times, it is real hard to cock.
The gun shop owner took the cylinder off, cleaned and lubed every thing he could and it did not get any easier to cock.
Would this problem be under the side plate?
This gun is so sweeeeeeeeeeet, I will not part with it
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Again, out of 6 cocks, about 3 are hard, the other 3 are fine
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I hope this is the place for this question.
I got a 28-2,4 inch today and shot 100 rounds thru it.
I always cock the gun first, then pull the trigger.
When I cock it 6 times, 2, maybe 3 times, it is real hard to cock.
The gun shop owner took the cylinder off, cleaned and lubed every thing he could and it did not get any easier to cock.
Would this problem be under the side plate?
This gun is so sweeeeeeeeeeet, I will not part with it
icon_cool.gif

Again, out of 6 cocks, about 3 are hard, the other 3 are fine
icon_confused.gif
 
Pull the grips check the tension on the strain screw and see if it continues. If the condition goes away, the spring may be contacting the grip screw. If it does continue after grip removal, closely examine the arc of geometry the spring is following to verify it isn't contacting the frame during it's travel. Get back to us with the yes/no's and maybe.
 
Sometimes it takes a little time to get some answers here. There are many members in different time zones and work schedules. Be patient and your query will be answered in due time.

While you are waiting check under the extractor star for unburnt powder or debris. I doubt that the problem is under the side plate. Check the star ratchet the part the hand pushes against for burrs in the metal. Cycle the cylinder to see if it pushes forward against the forcing cone when you cock the hammer. Be sure the back of the barrel and the front of the cylinder is clean and free of excessive residue. After you check these areas if you haven't found the problem then you will be able to get a better answer from the more knowledgable members who will help you. Good luck. Bruce
 
Be sure the back of the barrel and the front of the cylinder is clean and free of excessive residue.
Yup, the gun shop owner did this while I was looking on, even he was stumped
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It sounds like the gun may have sat for a while. If you know how to take the cylinder and crane out of the gun (just remove the front side plate screw and work the cylinder and crane out slowly and carefully) try taking the cylinder off the yoke barrel and cleaning both thoroughly. Clean the yoke barrel itself, and the inside of the yoke tube running through the center of the cylinder assembly. Sometimes powder fouling will build up on the yoke tube in certain spots, and when the cylinder is cycled while the gun is being used, the powder fouling will get packed down on the yoke tube and create sticky spots during cycling. Use a good solvent, then lightly lube the yoke tube with a quality lube and re-assemble the gun and try it.
 
Gun 4 Fun, the gun shop owner did all that, and he was really suprized that what all he did, did not take care of it.
He wanted to pull the side plate off, but I wanted to get home.
Thank you very much for all the advice.
If I sent the gun to Smith@Wesson, would they fix it?
 
S&W will fix it, but not for free. You'll have the $50 ship fee, the return fee from Smith is $14 accordring to the man I asked there. Then you'll have the repair fee, since this gun is way outside of the lifetime warranty period. If you know how to take the sideplate off properly, then do it. You might find a bunch of congealed old lube inside. Just be careful putting the plate back into position. If you want it repaired and have everything else checked at the same time I'd go with Smith. IMHO
 
If you are not versed in sideplate removal or gun disassembly, you might want to take the grips off and hose the works with some acetone spray (carb cleaner). Cock the hammer and spray in from the top and bottom and just keep hosing and working the action. You can also get some decent gun oil spray to use on it after it's clean. If that doesn't fix it, then it has to come apart.
 
Take the cylinder out of the gun. Hold the release latch to the rear and work the action like you normally do. If the problem is still there, it's internal to the frame. If not, the cylinder is the problem (or part of it).

Tell us what you find. We don't know exactly what your gunsmith did, so we have to work through all the possibilities. If I had the gun in front of me, it would be a lot easier to diagnose. Doing it remotely is infinitely harder.

Buck
 
CAUTION.: In the event you need to pull the side plate, DO NOT pry the plate off.Remove the grips and tap the butt of the weapon
with a plastic or wooden mallet, in affect bumping the weapon away from the plate.. The plate is precisely fitted.. TIN...
 
Originally posted by Markcuda:
When I cock it 6 times, 2, maybe 3 times, it is real hard to cock.:
An easy way to isolate the problem: use Sharpie and mark the cylinder when you feel the "really hard" positions. If it is the sme cylinder positions every time, the problem will be isolated to the cylinder, ejector star or rod. If it is at different cylinder positions, the problem is in the works inside the frame.
 
funny my 28-2 was doing the same thing just about drove me nuts.. finally figured it was a bent ejector rod , it would rub on the inside of the ejector rod housing for three rounds, out in the open for three rounds.
 
Wow, you guys are great
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When I get the gun home, Illinois has a three day wate
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I will do some of the things you fine people sugested.
I don't mind sending the gun to Smith@Wesson, It's just I don't know of to many gunsmiths here in Illinois.
 
I don't know if it still applies(?) but Midwest Sports on Plainfield Road, in Lyons Illinois used to be an authorized S&W repair center (9+ years ago) If some of the serving suggestions already proposed don't fix it.
 
All of the suggestions have been good ones.I'll just add that it's also possible that the yoke barrel is out of alignment.That and possibly a bent ejector rod can cause these symptoms.Usually this is caused by rough handling when opening and or closing the cylinder.
 
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